2005 Duramax will turn over will not crank! - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
04.5-05 LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, if we have the pressures, what next, Have a retired Mechanic going to come and scan my truck! I do have a bully dog programmer installed do I need to uninstall? I also ask my mechanic about it, said would not have anything to do with getting it scanned! He is a good friend ASE certified, but rather deal with gas jobs, and gets his feet wet with my Duramax! So there my story!

And Thank you all of giving me your input and experience!

Still learning here!!
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:01 PM
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I don't run a tuner of any sort, but from what I've read . . .

When there is a starting or running issue: Step 1 - remove tuner and see if problem goes away.
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2004.5 Silverado 3500 SRW 4x4, D/A (LLY), Ext. Cab, Long Bed
engineer837 aux rad, TxC CAI, LBZ MP, Scangauge II, Nicktane aux filter head, KD lift pump, 2008 PS pump, 2011 hydroboost, Frederico Swaybars, Rancho 9000XL, Torklift StableLoads, BFG AT/KO2, Lance 835 Camper often in the bed.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, did not go away, spoke to a diesel mechanic about 60 miles away, said to rebuild the fuel filter head, to eliminate any air leakage from there, he said even though no fuel leaking may be sucking air, said to try that first.
Any suggestions?
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:59 PM
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Well, darn. If you can prime it and it gets hard to push, they'll usually fire up.

If we continue down the fuel path... Our trucks are getting old. If the filter head hasn't been rebuilt or replaced yet, it's overdue. I had to rebuild mine several (5?) years ago. Now, since some have experienced a crack in the filter head, I suggest replacing it. It seems like I saw some place had a new filter head with a Racor filter (the best!) for $120 or $140 (and it certainly wasn't a dealer!).

There are also some flexible lines that get soft and will collapse. I've even heard of the fuel lines rusting from the inside (my brother has an LB7 that did this).

Leaks or collapsing lines are very hard to find since air leaks in and diesel probably won't leak out. MIkey52 provided one method to test (gently pressurize the tank). Another is to add a lift pump (and more filtering while you're at it!). I added a Kennedy lift pump about 1-1/2 years ago to avoid these problems (or as some say, cover up any problems), but at least make it obvious where the leak is and keep soft lines from collapsing.

There are other things that can go wrong, but I've only read about them (crank position sensor, wiring to the CPS, FICM, etc.) but those are very painful problems, which I don't even like to think about. Hopefully, diagnostic codes would point to such problems.

2004.5 Silverado 3500 SRW 4x4, D/A (LLY), Ext. Cab, Long Bed
engineer837 aux rad, TxC CAI, LBZ MP, Scangauge II, Nicktane aux filter head, KD lift pump, 2008 PS pump, 2011 hydroboost, Frederico Swaybars, Rancho 9000XL, Torklift StableLoads, BFG AT/KO2, Lance 835 Camper often in the bed.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:04 AM
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Well, darn. If you can prime it and it gets hard to push, they'll usually fire up.

If we continue down the fuel path... Our trucks are getting old. If the filter head hasn't been rebuilt or replaced yet, it's overdue. I had to rebuild mine several (5?) years ago. Now, since some have experienced a crack in the filter head, I suggest replacing it. It seems like I saw some place had a new filter head with a Racor filter (the best!) for $120 or $140 (and it certainly wasn't a dealer!).

There are also some flexible lines that get soft and will collapse. I've even heard of the fuel lines rusting from the inside (my brother has an LB7 that did this).

Leaks or collapsing lines are very hard to find since air leaks in and diesel probably won't leak out. MIkey52 provided one method to test (gently pressurize the tank). Another is to add a lift pump (and more filtering while you're at it!). I added a Kennedy lift pump about 1-1/2 years ago to avoid these problems (or as some say, cover up any problems), but at least make it obvious where the leak is and keep soft lines from collapsing.

There are other things that can go wrong, but I've only read about them (crank position sensor, wiring to the CPS, FICM, etc.) but those are very painful problems, which I don't even like to think about. Hopefully, diagnostic codes would point to such problems.
I would think you would need to open the bleeder also when priming to see if you can purge any air out of the system first. Then try starting the engine. Dean
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:19 PM
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check the fuel line under the truck on the driver side.

2005 LLY 2500HD
EFI Live tuned by Ridgerunner Performance, Edge CST2, lifted with Cognito, 4 inch straight pipe hollow cat and 5 inch Silverline tip, 22x14 Red Dirt Road Wheels with Auttro Trail Blade XT 35x12.5, Dual Fox Shocks, amp research, LED upgrade tail lights, 3d brake light & headlights, 20 inch LED behind grill, Aux Beam rock Lights, rebuilt Allison trans, new radiator, rear air bags, Resonator delete, PCV Reroute, S&B Mouthpiece with modified stock intake. New FF housing and hoses, new center steering column, new FICM wiring harness for injector 2&7, NEW 2015 style tow mirrors.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Waiting on payday going to rebuild the filter head primer and go from there will post after I get it built over the weekend, will also change filter and water senor while at it
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 03:55 PM
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Is your water in fuel sensor cracked? It is plastic you know. We had a GM dealer change the fuel filter on our 2003 2500 Duramax right before we were leaving for Colorado. He told me there was a problem with the water in fuel sensor but we would be okay. I told him we were leaving to drive 700 miles the next day. Anyway, when we got to Colorado and unhooked, then went somewhere, when we tried to start it, it wouldn't start. We had to prime it all week to get it to start. Come to find out, the mechanic had cracked the water in fuel sensor and it was leaking air, so it had to be primed. I called the dealer and when we got home, we took it over and he put a new one on at no charge. I was not happy with them.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 04:28 PM
 
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Originally Posted by GeorgeB View Post
Waiting on payday going to rebuild the filter head primer and go from there will post after I get it built over the weekend, will also change filter and water senor while at it
Mine did the same thing. I replaced the fuel filter head and it cranked right up.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 10:16 PM
 
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This same situation occurred a few months ago to my 1993 3500 4x4 DRW. A problem in our fifth wheel (which was still connected to the truck) developed an electrical condition which killed the RV's battery as well as the trucks 2 elderly batteries. I replaced all 3 batteries after correcting the RV's problem. The truck cranked strongly but would never start. It had run like new before the incident. Of course I blamed the fuel system and wasted days searching for the problem. Giving up, I had it towed to an excellent diesel center nearby. They found the body control module had lost it's memory and would not send the ECM the signal that the truck was not being stolen and to go ahead and start. They reprogrammed the body control module and, it's returned to running like new. By the way, it's my first diesel. It's a beautiful, cherry truck with 140K miles. I fell in love with it upon the first drive, and does it ever tow like a dream! I hope this helps you rather than mislead you.
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