Front end Rebuild? - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
06-07 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bam5128 View Post
So, I'm planning on getting the following:

Tie rods (PPE)
Moog UCAs, Lower Ball joints, idler arm, and pitman arm
Rancho Steering Stabilizer

I was looking at the pitman hidler arm support kit but the extra 250 for that makes it difficult (how in the world does a few brackets and nuts cost 250 btw).
Is it a big deal if I were to get this at a later date or do I need to do it when replacing the rest?

Also, any issues with the parts listed above? I'm on pavement 99% of the time

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On an open venue like this you are going to get all types of pros and cons.

With that being said, I used the Moog UCAs and Ball joints and i think i also used the Moog pitman and idler. I also did the Timken hubs and new brakes and axles since i was in there. It drives like a brand new truck. So safe to say I think the parts will hold up. But thats just one customer. I drive 75% on road.
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2004 Chevy 2500HD LT CCSB 4x4 213,XXX miles, Glow shift Pillar Gauges Pyrometer, Boost gauge, PPE boost valve, PPE High Idle switch, Merch Auto welded water pump, PPE coolant hoses, Mishimoto thermostats, 4"RCD LIFT, 35" TOYO A/T XtremeII, Bilstein 5100's, 4" Magna Flow Cat Back, MBRP CAI, Stage III trans, PPE Stage 3 Tie Rods, Sinister coolant filter kit, Powerstop Brake kit F&R, Firestone bags, Accuair on board compressor w/ 3 gallon tank. #whitetrucksmatter

1967 Camaro "Drive it like you stole it".
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOWTIE67 View Post
On an open venue like this you are going to get all types of pros and cons.



With that being said, I used the Moog UCAs and Ball joints and i think i also used the Moog pitman and idler. I also did the Timken hubs and new brakes and axles since i was in there. It drives like a brand new truck. So safe to say I think the parts will hold up. But thats just one customer. I drive 75% on road.
I just did rotors, calipers and pads no more than 6 months ago. I checked the CV boots and they all still looked good so I was going to hold on those.

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06 ECSB LBZ. Edge evolution, AirDog2 165, rear air bags, Transflow aux fuel tank, brush guard, headache rack
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 6686L View Post
This "thread" illustrates to me how little I understand the typical pick-up truck owner.

Let me explain - I read somewhere that over 70% of pick-ups are purchased by folks who rarely, if ever tow anything, rarely if ever carry a load, & rarely, if ever go "off-road".

Since I bought mine to use as a truck - and around here, that is why people buy these things...I just cant get my head around all this altering them and prettying them up.

Which brings me to this present "thread"....seems to me....given how much trouble you guys have with this "lifting", bigger wheels & tires than what our trucks were engineered for....and "hot-rodding" activity....wouldn't it make more sense economically to simply buy a bigger truck..say GMC's 4500 series? We had one when I was still in business...much more rugged than a "consumer grade" 3500....in all respects..frame..suspension...etc.

for example "off-roading" is what I do to get in and out of my ranch - about a mile and a half of essentially cow-trails before we get to county-maintained roads. A combination of ice, snow & mud makes four wheel drive AND a limited-slip differential essential if you hate walking......there have been times when I wish I had fatter-tread tires, but so far....I personally have not been stuck, and with the stock tires get a nice highway ride.

Obviously..i am missing something.
Umm, I'm not sure of the relevance your mini rant had to this post or where you were trying to go with it. None of what was said was about making the truck "pretty".

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06 ECSB LBZ. Edge evolution, AirDog2 165, rear air bags, Transflow aux fuel tank, brush guard, headache rack
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bam5128 View Post
So, I'm planning on getting the following:

Tie rods (PPE)
Moog UCAs, Lower Ball joints, idler arm, and pitman arm
Rancho Steering Stabilizer

I was looking at the pitman hidler arm support kit but the extra 250 for that makes it difficult (how in the world does a few brackets and nuts cost 250 btw).
Is it a big deal if I were to get this at a later date or do I need to do it when replacing the rest?

Also, any issues with the parts listed above? I'm on pavement 99% of the time

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk


All my parts listed were Moog and Iím happy with em. Timken wheel hub assemblyís as well. Time will tell.


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Clayton

2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD Classic 6.6L Duramax

Me in my other ride:
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 07:22 PM
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Got 408k on my truck now. I ran factory 245 tires until 207k miles. At 207k, I bumped the tires up to 265s still on factory wheels. Been running 265s ever since.

At 235k miles my upper ball joints were absolute toast. That was the first front end work I did on this truck. They probably needed to be replaced a good while before I did.

254k lower idler arm and steering damper.

Replaced the front hubs at around 263k. Wasn't having any problems with them, just did it as a maintenance item.

Replaced the pitman arm at around 275k. It was also something I should have replaced sooner.

Then, at around 330k I did a serious rebuild. All 4 ball joints (was just going to do the lowers but decided that if I had all that crap tore apart I might as well do the upper BJs again). Did the upper BJs by way of new control arms with new bushings. All tie rod ends, and lower control arm bushings.

At 360k the left side hub started roaring - I had used NAPA's "super-duper" replacement hubs when I replaced them the first time. they were expensive as hell and didn't last half as long as the factory ones. Went Timken this time. Less than half the price.

At 386k I replaced the pitman again and top and bottom idler.

399,000 miles - the steering box started leaking from the output (sector shaft) seal. Replaced it with a Delco reman unit (I trust Delco reman stuff - my Delco alternator has been on the truck since ~220k miles.) After that, my steering is literally factory tight again.

407k miles - a few weeks ago I was getting the roaring from the front end again. Ordered another Timken hub and replaced the right side NAPA unit.

All the stuff I've installed has been Moog excepting the steering box and the hubs.
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2002 Chevy 2500HD Crew - Original owner - 408,000 miles so far. All stock with the exception of a lift pump.
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