Front end Rebuild? - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
06-07 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Front end Rebuild?

I currently have a bad upper ball joint and tie rod (of course on opposite sides). I am planning on replacing the inner and outer tie rods (thinking PPE or Kryptonite) and upper control arms with the ball joints (Moog).

My question is, while I am doing this, is there anything else I should look to be doing at the same time since I will need an alignment once I'm done?

2006 2500HD ECSB 4x4 w/ ~135k miles- suspension is all stock except air bags in the rear end for hauling.

I am not doing any launches or hardcore off road driving. I pretty much just use it for the "normal" truck stuff.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 06:47 PM
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I also have a 2006 but with 200K miles and in the last 20K miles have replaced inner/outer tie rods, upper control arms to get new ball joints and bushings, steering gearbox, pitman arm, idler arm & bracket, added pitman/idler arm support kit.

I didn't do all this at once and wish I would have because it seemed that I'd change the worn out part and then another one would show the wear. So those are all things to look at and depending on your budget you can decide to replace just the worn parts and see how it does after that. As 6686L stated, knowing if you have aftermarket wheels/tires would benefit you for getting advice here since that can and will put extra stress on your front end parts.

If I had factory wheels & tires I probably wouldn't have installed a pitman/idler arm support kit but with 20x10's and 305/50 tires I need all the help I can get up there! Hope this helps.

2006 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 - MBRP Downpipe, 5" Magnaflow Straight Piped, SDP EGR delete, FASS 150, PPE Airbox Mod, PCV reroute, EFI Live by Idaho Rob, Reverse leveled, 20x10 (-12) Fuel Mavericks with 305/50 Nitto 420's
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 6686L View Post
May I inquire - at what mileage did you decide your front suspension needed maintainence….and...is your truck "stock"...and if not, what mods did you do...for example...."lifted"...different wheels and tires? ( I'd like to have a rough estimate as what to expect & plan for.....my truck (as far as the suspension & tires goes) is bone stock - just turned 93,000 mi.
I'm at 135k. I'm not sure at what mileage they went out but I have been chasing down a sound and noticed these things just now. Truck is at stock height. I have after market wheels but they are about the same size as factory. Tires are 265s so slightly larger than stock.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by askyup88 View Post
I also have a 2006 but with 200K miles and in the last 20K miles have replaced inner/outer tie rods, upper control arms to get new ball joints and bushings, steering gearbox, pitman arm, idler arm & bracket, added pitman/idler arm support kit.



I didn't do all this at once and wish I would have because it seemed that I'd change the worn out part and then another one would show the wear. So those are all things to look at and depending on your budget you can decide to replace just the worn parts and see how it does after that. As 6686L stated, knowing if you have aftermarket wheels/tires would benefit you for getting advice here since that can and will put extra stress on your front end parts.



If I had factory wheels & tires I probably wouldn't have installed a pitman/idler arm support kit but with 20x10's and 305/50 tires I need all the help I can get up there! Hope this helps.
I have close to stock size aftermarket wheels. Tires:265s, and stock ride height.

What did you do with the steering gearbox?
Sounds like I should just do the idler and pitman arm at the same time. Also for the extra 250, it sounds like it may be worth adding the PISK kit while I'm in there.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-16-2019, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bam5128 View Post
I have close to stock size aftermarket wheels. Tires:265s, and stock ride height.

What did you do with the steering gearbox?
Sounds like I should just do the idler and pitman arm at the same time. Also for the extra 250, it sounds like it may be worth adding the PISK kit while I'm in there.

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I replaced the gearbox with a redhead unit. The previous owner had replaced the original with a reman parts store unit and it already had a lot of play in it. If you check yours for play and it's good I'd leave it alone for now because your mileage is lower. The support kit will definitely help and if you think you'll ever do it that would be the time to do it.

My pitman arm was worn but the idler arm/bracket weren't. I just did both of those at the same time because I was tired of pulling everything apart multiple times.

2006 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 - MBRP Downpipe, 5" Magnaflow Straight Piped, SDP EGR delete, FASS 150, PPE Airbox Mod, PCV reroute, EFI Live by Idaho Rob, Reverse leveled, 20x10 (-12) Fuel Mavericks with 305/50 Nitto 420's
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-17-2019, 10:57 AM
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If the control arm bushings are showing any wear then it is a lot easier to buy a full control arm assembly with ball joint and bushings already pressed in than it is to press them into your old control arm, in my opinion anyway.

06 LBZ CCSB
With some stuff.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-17-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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If the control arm bushings are showing any wear then it is a lot easier to buy a full control arm assembly with ball joint and bushings already pressed in than it is to press them into your old control arm, in my opinion anyway.
I was planning on doing that for the UCAs. Undecided for the LCAs though.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-17-2019, 11:15 AM
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I was planning on doing that for the UCAs. Undecided for the LCAs though.

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I did upper and lower on both sides, found it cheaper and easier to do it that.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-19-2019, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bam5128 View Post
I currently have a bad upper ball joint and tie rod (of course on opposite sides). I am planning on replacing the inner and outer tie rods (thinking PPE or Kryptonite) and upper control arms with the ball joints (Moog).

My question is, while I am doing this, is there anything else I should look to be doing at the same time since I will need an alignment once I'm done?

2006 2500HD ECSB 4x4 w/ ~135k miles- suspension is all stock except air bags in the rear end for hauling.

I am not doing any launches or hardcore off road driving. I pretty much just use it for the "normal" truck stuff.

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I rebuilt my entire front end at about 160k while I had it apart installing a lift kit. Consider doing it all while you’re there, but I’d only do it if grease boots were torn (therefore wont hold grease and part life will be limited further) on tie rod ends, ball joints, pitman and idler arms, or if any of those parts show any play. Jack up your front tires off the ground and grab the tire at 12/6 o’clock positions (mainly looking at ball joints here) and rock back and forth forcefully while someone looks for play at all of the joints then repeat at 3/9 o’clock positions (mainly looking at tie rod ends, pitman and idler here). The idler arm bracket may be another less likely worn part. If the boot doesn’t hold grease I’d replace it. The last culprit for play in wheels when you rock them that I’ve experienced is the wheel hub assembly. The bearings on mine were shot at about 130k but I could hear them squealing when driving. All of this is budget dependent. As long as you replace when necessary (shows play when rocking) you’ll be fine doing it one part at a time. It’s just a question of time and effort. Take a look at your brake pads while you have the wheels off too. Though I’m still on oe stock pads which blows my mind.

Regarding bushings and ball joints vs control arms, that just comes down to money, time and tools. You’ll have a hard time pressing bushings without some serious redneck engineering, which I was able to conquer with a press kit, bottle jack and 3 ton jack, some ratchet straps and scrap wood. You can take the money you save from not buying control arms and buy a harbor freight hydraulic press. Then you’ll be able to do it yourself forever. Good luck.


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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-20-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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So, I'm planning on getting the following:

Tie rods (PPE)
Moog UCAs, Lower Ball joints, idler arm, and pitman arm
Rancho Steering Stabilizer

I was looking at the pitman hidler arm support kit but the extra 250 for that makes it difficult (how in the world does a few brackets and nuts cost 250 btw).
Is it a big deal if I were to get this at a later date or do I need to do it when replacing the rest?

Also, any issues with the parts listed above? I'm on pavement 99% of the time

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