06 lbz P0087 code - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
06-07 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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06 lbz P0087 code

Yesterday I left the parts store and when I pulled out I got on er a good bit. It felt like I wasnt going anywhere but I don’t think I was spinning. I got out of it, the CEL came on and she went to limp mode. So naturally I turned around and got it scanned. Got the P0087 code. I did some research and found a few things to check. I’ve been loosing prime lately. I was wondering if I should start with a fresh filter as well as rebuild the oem filter head. Also should I change the fuel pressure relief plug with a race plug or would I need tuned for that? I don’t have a lift pump yet. It’s something I’ve wanted but with being a new home owner, a one year old, the wife in school and not working I don’t wanna drop that cash right now. I don’t see any collapses hoses either. Thanks for any and all help.

‘06 LBZ Sierra 2500HD AWD. K&N CAI, EGR Block plates, 3” DP to 4” MBRP, transgo jr, edge insight CTS2. Full AMSOIL fluids.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020, 09:31 AM
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If you're losing prime, you're aerating the fuel to the CP3, at the very least.

Fix the leak, then test and move on to the next probable culprit.
Top of the list in chasing the P0087, is the filter head. You can try a rebuild, but not all potential leak areas are serviceable.
Absolute fix is a new filter head assembly; head, filter, sensor, heater, harness, etc.
Two bolts and drop in, easier than replacing just the filter alone.

Also include the two fuel lines to/fro it too. If the head has decayed (leaks), those two lines are tired too.

A restricted filter can and will expose other leak areas.
Benefit of the lift pump is positive pressure vs vacuum, which helps eliminate sucking air from various points and weak/worn lines sucking flat.

Which can be looked at as a band-aid. Find the leak problem 1st.
Rail plug; bottle test will show if the FPRV is leaking by. But again, if it leaks, it's not a consistent thing. Hotter fuel after driving a while can trigger leaks you won't find with cold fuel.

There's 'bout 1/2 a doz things that can contribute to the fuel limp; maybe it's just one thing, or more likely a combo of all of the above. A little leak here, a little leak there, and the CP3 can't keep up. And, it's rarely consistent in testing.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks hook. Any idea if the dorman filter head any good? When I read your response I went straight to rock auto. Just shy of 90 beans isn’t a bad price at all but I don’t want to waste my time and money if it’s a pile of garbage.

‘06 LBZ Sierra 2500HD AWD. K&N CAI, EGR Block plates, 3” DP to 4” MBRP, transgo jr, edge insight CTS2. Full AMSOIL fluids.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020, 06:29 PM
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No experience with dorman. They're probably okay. So many Millions of these have failed over the years, everyone's into making a replacement now.

acDelco 12642623 comes with a new TP3018 filter (top spec filter now)

Racor made the OE head (acDelco) way back when, they still offer it today WITH a new Parker-Racor filter assembled.

PFF4245R2-02

There's a lot of CN crap on the market now, like the ifjf that floods your search on fleabay. The recent fuel filter shootout thread didn't have good things to say about the ifjf filters...so there's that.

You can buy just the head, like you found on rock, but I think the value buy is the complete assembly with a new filter installed, either Racor or acDelco.
'bout $120 delivered (search).

It also comes with a new WIF sensor, installed. A cracked sensor can also be a source of prime loss.
From a shop standpoint, there's less labor involved with just dropping in the new assembly, which is another value point to consider.

When you do install one, and you unhook the keeper on the black/red heater wires, move them so they run on the pass side of the filter, instead of against the engine.

Stock routing of that harness is what your filter wrench hangs on when trying to swap out the filter. Many suppliers sell a spacer block to eliminate the snag, but if you just move the wires' routing, you accomplish the same thing.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the advice. I’ve read a lot that the wif sensor is well, let’s say pretty much useless in these trucks. Should I get a wif plug and just tie the wires back out of the way or would you not recommend that? I change my filter every 5-10k

‘06 LBZ Sierra 2500HD AWD. K&N CAI, EGR Block plates, 3” DP to 4” MBRP, transgo jr, edge insight CTS2. Full AMSOIL fluids.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 07:44 AM
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This is a fun code to play with. The way I've been trying to solve mine is just started replacing stuff starting with the least expensive and moving to the next one if that didn't fix it. Bad part is someone else's problem might not be yours so you gotta keep throwing money at it until you get it fixed. Good thing is there is a lot of threads here about this code so most likely you'll find your fix.

Good luck.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 07:49 AM
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"useless", usually means they've never seen it trigger.

I have seen the warning pop up. Members have even reported the warning appear, downstream of their high dollar lift pump FWS filter. Pickup an inexpensive compound gauge and an adapter for the bleed port, then you can periodically check psi at idle to determine if you need to change the filter.....instead of just throwing a new one on and guessing.

If it (WIF) fails, it's usually because of installer damage. Lesser filters (as seen in the filter shootout thread) have junk threads that can damage the sensor on install, or improper installation.

Both the filter and the sensor seal with an O-ring. Hand tight per the directions printed on the side is all that's needed to seal (1/4-1/2 turn?), they're not a lug nut.

Oil the O-rings before install, then hand tight. I've found that with oil, the filter O-ring on top will actually snap in place for install.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"

Last edited by Hook'em_Horns!; 01-04-2020 at 07:52 AM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-06-2020, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve always installed the filter and wif just the way you stated. I’m not a mechanical dummy, just a learning curve in the diesel world lol I’ve got a filter head assembly that you lead me to on the way. I’m gonna do that and change the fuel lines that you also mentioned and see what happens. I’m also going to get one of those gauges. I’ll report back in a couple weeks when I get back home from work
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‘06 LBZ Sierra 2500HD AWD. K&N CAI, EGR Block plates, 3” DP to 4” MBRP, transgo jr, edge insight CTS2. Full AMSOIL fluids.
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