06 duramax lbz coolant problems - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
06-07 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
06LBZCrew4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 27
06 duramax lbz coolant problems

Hello, I have a 2006 Chevy Duramax 2500hd LBZ, 6 speed allison, cc/sb 4x4, motor is stock, still has the egr-system/egr-cooler on it. I bought the truck from my Uncle and he is ocd with doing maintenance on his truck's, tractors, etc.. so I know the truck has been well maintained, it still look's new inside & outside & if I didn't say anything you wouldn't know it has 250k miles. Before I bought the truck from him, he had everything changed, all fluids, fuel filter, new passenger side cv-axle from dealership, new passenger side outter tie-rod, etc..pretty much everything serviced. I've had the truck for around 10 months, I haven't had the first problem with the truck till now. Around 4 month's ago the low coolant light came on, the temperature has been 185 since I bought it, the hose that goes from the egr-cooler to the thermostat housing busted a small hole, I found it using a rad. pressure tester, I replaced the hose, that was a pain-n-as*, I topped off the coolant with dex-cool and bleed the system. I have had nothing but problems since then, the low coolant light came on again a week or two later, I let it cool, took cap off slowly and it had pressure where I had to slowly remove the cap so it wouldn't blow out. Well I topped it off again, tried to bleed it again, it seemed like I got all the air out, drove it again, same thing, so now I'm starting to wonder if something else is wrong, the heat won't get hot, the truck takes a while to get up to temp 180-195 & then goes back to 170-180 & then the heat get's hott but as soon as it does it says low coolant level. I bought an ac-delco tank cap, that didn't do anything, I bought ac-delco thermostats, changed them and it's still doing the same thing. I let the truck sit overnight and drained about a quart of oil to see if it had any coolant in it, it was good clean oil. I've only put 3k miles on the truck since I bought it. I've asked him what he thinks & he keeps saying there's air in the system somewhere. When it's sat overnight, I top the coolant off and drive the truck 5-10 miles it will finally get up to temp around 180-190 but the low coolant light comes on and when I get out to check the reservoir coolant has blown out of the overflow & it's all over the passenger side wheel, fender liner, some on the outside of the truck. I have been trying to figure this out for 2-3 month's now, not even driving the truck much but around the block, a mile or 2 just to keep the batteries charged.
Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

If I posted this in the wrong section, I apologize, I've been reading this forum for 6+ month's, just joined due to I can only look at it on my phone, for some reason my computer lock's up.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170922_095250_1520007508003.jpg (43.4 KB, 211 views)
06LBZCrew4x4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 08:28 AM
Senior Member
 
Noble_dmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 984
Have you given the upper radiator hose a squeeze after running it hard then letting it sit overnight? Might indicate a head gasket failure.

Does the coolant in the reservoir look clean, or kind of like sludge?

2018 GMC l5p ccsb stone blue metallic. Mcgaughy's 2" drop shackles. Truxedo tonneau cover. 20% tint. B&W turnover ball hitch. N Fab running boards, Duraflaps, Rhino lined bed

Traded:05 lly ccsb 205k miles, built trans and supporting mods

Traded:09 LMM CCLB Bone stock, fully loaded. 86xxx miles.
Noble_dmax is offline  
post #3 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 12:49 PM
Administrator
 
jc1843's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 17,809
Send a message via AIM to jc1843
Moved to LBZ- Report back on what you find-

Always a good idea to include the problem in the first sentence- people don't always have time to real the story of your truck, but can after if they want.

Chevy 04.5 LLY, 2X, shell, XDR, MikeL Heavy duty up-grade, 6spd, TransGo, deep pan, de-badged, 65 Gallon replacement Aero tank, LBZ-mp, Kennedy pump, shimmed, Pre-fuel filter, tow mirrors, BU cam, gauges, GPS, Sirius, bags, custom grille, fender vents, HD trans cooler- Curt front hitch, footwell lights, load lights, Studs, head gaskets.
jc1843 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 02:46 AM
DuramaxForum Fanatic
 
mijdirtyjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 5,569
Sounds like you have blown headgaskets.

As stated above check the upper hose after sitting overnight to see if it’s still hard. Then slowly remove the reservoir cap and if it has any pressures, time to save up for studs and gaskets.

Jim
__________________________________________________ _
2003 Chevy 2500hd crew cab 4x4, D/A

Just a few aftermarket goodies
mijdirtyjeep is offline  
post #5 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 11:11 AM
Senior Member
 
kygreen229's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 360
Having basically identical issue on my 06 LBZ with 230k on it. Sitting in my driveway it has a leak from what appears to be back of engine area. Starting it up it comes to temp then seems to cool right back off and no heat for a while. Then it will eventually come back. Pressure in my coolant tank for sure sitting overnight. I had it checked a year and a half ago for a blown head gasket to confirm but a reputable diesel shop said it was fine. I have changed thermostats and initially it seemed to fix issue but not the leak and now it seems itís back as it was. Heater core issue??

2006 Chevy Duramax LBZ CCSB-230,000 miles
EFI live
4" from DP back
HG's and ARP studs, EGR delete

Last edited by kygreen229; 03-04-2018 at 11:52 AM.
kygreen229 is offline  
post #6 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 11:53 AM
Administrator
 
jc1843's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 17,809
Send a message via AIM to jc1843
Erratic coolant temperature is usually a bad head gasket or low on coolant- remember the coolant sensor only works when it is submerged in coolant- if coolant is not contacting the sensor- it will probably show low temperature. Also if there is air in the coolant system, it will not flow warm air out of the heater assy.

If there is pressure/firm upper radiator hose-- in the coolant system after driven hard- and sitting overnight, most likely you have a bad headgasket. Many are in "Headgasket Denial" when they have the problem.

Chevy 04.5 LLY, 2X, shell, XDR, MikeL Heavy duty up-grade, 6spd, TransGo, deep pan, de-badged, 65 Gallon replacement Aero tank, LBZ-mp, Kennedy pump, shimmed, Pre-fuel filter, tow mirrors, BU cam, gauges, GPS, Sirius, bags, custom grille, fender vents, HD trans cooler- Curt front hitch, footwell lights, load lights, Studs, head gaskets.
jc1843 is offline  
post #7 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 12:01 PM
Senior Member
 
kygreen229's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by jc1843 View Post
Erratic coolant temperature is usually a bad head gasket or low on coolant- remember the coolant sensor only works when it is submerged in coolant- if coolant is not contacting the sensor- it will probably show low temperature. Also if there is air in the coolant system, it will not flow warm air out of the heater assy.

If there is pressure/firm upper radiator hose-- in the coolant system after driven hard- and sitting overnight, most likely you have a bad headgasket. Many are in "Headgasket Denial" when they have the problem.
Thanks for quick reply. I can see the denial part. However I had a shop look at it and they said it was not a blown head gasket. I donít know what method they used to check either. Iím thinking of buying a block tester and trying it myself on top of reservoir tank to see if I get a change in the fluid color indicating an issue. I checked hose this am after driving it last night and it was rock hard almost with lots of pressure when opening reservoir cap.

Any idea on current costs to do a head gasket yourself vs a shop roughly? I have a little commuter car so not to bummed about it sitting for a while if I do it myself.

2006 Chevy Duramax LBZ CCSB-230,000 miles
EFI live
4" from DP back
HG's and ARP studs, EGR delete
kygreen229 is offline  
post #8 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 12:10 PM
Administrator
 
jc1843's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 17,809
Send a message via AIM to jc1843
The coolant dye test, nor the compression test, nor coolant in the crankcase does NOT usually work on a Duramax. Fill the coolant, drive it hard-- park it over night-- then before you start it, squeeze the upper hose- if it is firm like a tennis ball, it is USUALLY a bad head gasket. Good luck

Of course if you have a coolant leak-- address that first-

Chevy 04.5 LLY, 2X, shell, XDR, MikeL Heavy duty up-grade, 6spd, TransGo, deep pan, de-badged, 65 Gallon replacement Aero tank, LBZ-mp, Kennedy pump, shimmed, Pre-fuel filter, tow mirrors, BU cam, gauges, GPS, Sirius, bags, custom grille, fender vents, HD trans cooler- Curt front hitch, footwell lights, load lights, Studs, head gaskets.
jc1843 is offline  
post #9 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 06:10 PM
Senior Member
 
kygreen229's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 360
I think it is confirmed at this point. Hose is hard after sitting overnight, temp gauge is all over the place, mainly low temp, wont blow heat most of the time. Reservoir keeps wanting to overflow. I smell coolant in general. I guess next step is to confirm it isnt an EGR issue and then bite the bullet and replace the head gasket and do studs.

2006 Chevy Duramax LBZ CCSB-230,000 miles
EFI live
4" from DP back
HG's and ARP studs, EGR delete
kygreen229 is offline  
post #10 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
06LBZCrew4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 27
Well I have a really bad feeling that's what it's going to be. I was Hoping/ing that it was going to have something to do with the egr-cooler, because the 5/8 hose that goes from the cooler to the thermostat housing busted a small hole & was spitting coolant out & that's what started this whole thing. I replaced that house and thought for sure it was good to go, nope. I've talked to several people about what the truck is doing and I've gotten several different thing's. From when I changed that hose going from egr-cooler to T-Stat housing or when I changed the thermostats there's a good chance I screwed up the O-Ring that's on the aluminum piece coming from egr-cooler to thermostat housing. I didn't remove that piece when I replaced the hose, although I think I did loosen the bolts because I was going to do it that way till I found out how much that 1 O-Ring is. I'm sure it also got moved around a good bit when I changed the thermostats. It's not leaking coolant from there but my Uncle seems to think there's air in the coolant system that I'm not getting out. I was told by someone that you can't really check the dip-stick, you have to drain a little oil after it sits overnight, so I drove the truck for a little while the other day and parked it, let it sit overnight, the next morning I drained almost a quart/more than 3/4 of a quart of oil to see if there was coolant in the oil and it looked just like it did 3k miles ago when I changed it.
I've been told it could be a bad/going bad egr-cooler, I was planning on taking that and the egr off asap but this came up before I could do anything. My Uncle left it completely stock, he never messed with any of that kind of stuff the only thing he did was put the wheels in my picture on it with the Michelin Tires, but when I went to the dealership to get thermostats, I know a couple guy's that work there from my Uncle, he has a Hunting Lodge in Doizer Al. and I asked the one that was helping me if he would look the vin up and tell me everything it's been to the shop for, I gave him my vin # and he said 90% was for regular maintenance, in 2015 or around there he said something about that being the last time it was at the shop and he told me something about "fixing/replacing something with the EGR" I couldn't really understand him it was almost like he wasn't supposed to tell me anything. I'm Going to call him back right now and see what it was and when. I will find out what was done last at the dealership and aboutthe egr thing he told me about when I was up there and I'll post whatever I find out.

Is there anybody that live's in Fl. Crestview, FWB, Pensacola, over towards Mobile, Al. area that's an honest, good shop/mechanic? I would Really Appreciate it!
Thanks,
Joe
06LBZCrew4x4 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome