Turbo - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
06-07 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Turbo

Howdy,

Is there a way to diagnose a faulty Turbo unit. I have a 2007 3500 dually and when pulling my RV (16,000 lbs), up a slight incline on the interstate against a decent headwind, I'm lucky to get up to 55mph, which then promptly overheats the engine.

Terry
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 03:22 PM
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Signs of a bad turbo would be oil/ coolant consumption/ smoke out of the exhaust, low boost levels, grinding noises. If your turbo is bad you would have trouble getting your RV up to speed on flat ground. I've seen faulty CP3 pumps that don't act up unless you're pulling a load, but fuel or air issues shouldn't cause overheating. I would suspect the two are unrelated. How are your fluid levels? What kind of boost are you running into? Do you have any codes?

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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lb7dirtymax01 View Post
Signs of a bad turbo would be oil/ coolant consumption/ smoke out of the exhaust, low boost levels, grinding noises. If your turbo is bad you would have trouble getting your RV up to speed on flat ground. I've seen faulty CP3 pumps that don't act up unless you're pulling a load, but fuel or air issues shouldn't cause overheating. I would suspect the two are unrelated. How are your fluid levels? What kind of boost are you running into? Do you have any codes?
Are you keeping the engine RPM above 2000 - when climbing-?? Using Tow/Haul mode-? Have you cleaned the "Stack'"-?? Have sufficient air flow - radiator - over heat due to low RPM and restricted radiator-! How old is the fuel filter-?? Do you have any codes--?? Check the boots where they attach t the intercooler. May have come apart.


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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 06:19 PM
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May have a fuel hose problem-- but this will NOT cause overheat--

Check the fuel hoses at the driver side of the trans, where they curve to go up-! Some have had a kink and that restricted fuel flow and caused low power. GM had a TSB on the problem- GM BULLETIN #PIP4526!!

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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I apologize for the delayed response to all who have answered my original question. Anyways, I do have a code now - PO403, exhaust gas, recirculation circ error. I don't know what that means but will be looking into it.

I saw another reply that asked if I was running 2000 rpm going into the climb. I was moving south on I-35 from New Braunfels, cruising at 60 to 65 mph and the climb was just the slight terrain incline when it seems to struggle in power even though I keep the pedal down, it slowed to 50 to 55 mph and then begins to over-heat. Top the hill and running flat again while letting off the throttle, it cools back to 210. ?

I'll have to re-read the other questions to answer the best I can. I am a pretty decent mechanic and do all my own R&R repairs but this is my first diesel truck, and a fine truck it is. Unfortunately, I've been busy getting all the physical chore's done cuz I'm scheduled for a knee replacement on Tues, the 3rd. So I won't be doing any mechanic work for several weeks.
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lb7dirtymax01 View Post
Signs of a bad turbo would be oil/ coolant consumption/ smoke out of the exhaust, low boost levels, grinding noises. If your turbo is bad you would have trouble getting your RV up to speed on flat ground. I've seen faulty CP3 pumps that don't act up unless you're pulling a load, but fuel or air issues shouldn't cause overheating. I would suspect the two are unrelated. How are your fluid levels? What kind of boost are you running into? Do you have any codes?
Ok, it's not loosing oil or coolant, I do have intermittent puffs of black smoke during a stressed acceleration but never under no towing, no grinding noises. Unsure what you mean by the boost levels and the CP3 pumps. I have it programmed for performance towing, (Superchips), fluid levels are all topped off.
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Are you keeping the engine RPM above 2000 - when climbing-?? Using Tow/Haul mode-? Have you cleaned the "Stack'"-?? Have sufficient air flow - radiator - over heat due to low RPM and restricted radiator-! How old is the fuel filter-?? Do you have any codes--?? Check the boots where they attach t the intercooler. May have come apart.


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I didn't have the tow/haul mode engaged and what is the "stack". Radiator is clean with good air flow, fuel filter is at 35%. As I mentioned in an above post, I now have a PO403 code. About the fuel hose problem, I'll have to wait til after rehab'n my knee to check the hoses. I don't think it's a problem since the truck runs excellent when not pulling a load.

Thanks, T
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 06:22 PM
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You should always use the tow haul mode when towing- IMHO The shift points are higher.
Keeping the RPM above 2000 or closer to 2500 is better when towing- you have more coolant circulating- and when the fan is engaged, it will pull more air through the radiator. Resulting in cooler engine temperature.

Cleaning the Stack refers to removing the radiator, flushing the fins on the radiator and AC condenser. Debris gets collected between the two and can block the air flow. You cannot see the debris until the radiator is removed. Spraying water through the condenser is not enough.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terryscott View Post
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I didn't have the tow/haul mode engaged and what is the "stack". Radiator is clean with good air flow, fuel filter is at 35%. As I mentioned in an above post, I now have a PO403 code. About the fuel hose problem, I'll have to wait til after rehab'n my knee to check the hoses. I don't think it's a problem since the truck runs excellent when not pulling a load.

Thanks, T
I definitely agree with @jc1843 that you should use T/H whenever pulling a trailer of any significant weight (I use T/H with any load over one ton). T/H will keep your torque converter locked as soon as you're out of first gear, which will reduce the heat dissipation from the transmission and converter. This may be a stretch, but it's possible that not using T/H could be related to overheating. I say this because I am pretty certain that the transmission cooler is located in front of the radiator, so if your transmission fluid is extremely hot then the air passing over the transmission cooler will already be warmed up by the time it hits the radiator; this could reduce the radiator's heat dissipation capacity. Personally, I doubt that this effect would be that significant but I figure it's at least worth mentioning. Do you know what your approximate transmission temperature was when this problem occurred?

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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 08:37 AM
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Trans fluid runs thru the Rad 1st, then out front to the aux cooler, it's all like one big heat sink. Higher trans fluid temps add to the heat load and can affect ECT.

I'm familiar with that SB run to SA. From your description;
Quote:
cruising at 60 to 65 mph and the climb was just the slight terrain incline when it seems to struggle in power even though I keep the pedal down, it slowed to 50 to 55 mph and then begins to over-heat.
60-65, no T/H engaged, running in 6th gear, @ probably 1700-1800Rs, with an 8-ton building, into a headwind, lugging it down even further as you drop to 50.

Add in the brutal Texas summer heat, That's covering everything you don't want to do.
You're just wasting fuel and making heat (and making road rage behind ya). Try this instead;
T/H engaged
Run in M5, lock out 6th.
Keep your RPMs in the range of 2050-2200

That's going to put you closer to 67-68mph, TC locked (cooler trans), pushing a lot more air/higher boost, more coolant flow, and even though you're running higher Rs, you'll actually be using less fuel. And that loss of power thing, gone. You'll see that the throttle at that point is a bit 'touchy', enticing you towards 72mph (which your trailer tires might not like).

Also, your from a stop acceleration to hwy speed, running in T/H, you'll see that the Ally will also move the shift points up to that same RPM range. That's where the powa is.
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