Opinions on buying this 2006 LBZ? I'm new to Dmax! - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
06-07 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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I had the truck inspected this morning and the results made me feel somewhat re assured. They said the oil leak didn't seem too major at this point, and that they wouldn't bother fixing it until it becomes more of an issue. They think is is either a pan gasket or the rear main, in which case they said worst case scenario it would be round 1K to fix. Front ball joints are looking a bit worn and the rear driver side window motor needs replaced. Aside from that, they said the truck looks to be in good shape for its age and miles. I asked the shop owner if he felt the price for the truck was fair at 13k and he said "Yeah, I would have no issue paying that for a bone stock truck in this condition, ever with the 220K miles"

I think I am going to go drive the truck tonight. Will probably talk to the wife and sleep on it a bit.

I figure at 13k if I have to put a little bit of money into the truck, its still not too bad. Would you guys agree?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
While the previous gen had a problematic HG design, there were also many other contributing design factors under the hood that stressed the HG design.

All of those contributing factors were corrected with the next gen 6-spd LBZ (LLZ).
However, as time has progressed, we've also found out that GM continued using the old style HGs on the early '06 models, until inventory was depleted.

Later '06 models had the newer updated HG design. Being an LLZ, it also has the old style HGs. However, that doesn't mean the HGs are destined for failure.
Because all of the contributing design flaws were corrected.

Checking balance rates on a hot engine, 'can' show out of spec rates, but it's not the end-all of diagnosing worn injectors. A return rate test is more definitive.
But as I've found out, there's not many shops that have the ability or knowledge to properly measure return rates.

Rail pressure;.....with a hot engine, hot fuel, rail pressure 'desired' levels not keeping up with 'actual' levels, can be caused by excessive return rates from worn injectors.

But the rail pressure not keeping up, can also be 1 or more of 6 different things as a cause.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 06:21 PM
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Wetness at the rear is not a problem. It's when it's bad enough to leave a puddle/stain when it sits, but then I'd still have to think 'bout it before diving in to a repair.

Old man truck with an old man topper on back,
what's not to luv?

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
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Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Just got back from test driving the truck. Motor runs super smooth, the transmission shifts pretty smooth as well. I crawled under the truck and checked for signs of the infamous pump rub hole. Does not seem to be any holes in the area, which is a big plus!

Seller is a super nice guy, I offered him 11k cash and he accepted

I am meeting with him tomorrow evening to exchange the cash and title. The truck isn't perfect, but to get the truck for $11,000 after a pretty encouraging shop inspection, I am pretty damn excited.

THANK YOU to you guys who helped figure out the LLZ situation, now ya'll are stuck with me and my new rig haha

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
Wetness at the rear is not a problem. It's when it's bad enough to leave a puddle/stain when it sits, but then I'd still have to think 'bout it before diving in to a repair.

Old man truck with an old man topper on back,
what's not to luv?
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 07:43 PM
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Thats an excellent price. Glad it worked out for you. Regarding the pump rub, you wont see the hole until its too late. And even then its very hard to spot. Post pics when its finally in your driveway!

2007 3500HD CCLB DRW 4WD classic
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Meant to post a couple photos of the truck, but i've been out of town for a few days.

We ran around in the truck yesterday running some errands and i've already noticed a couple things that i'd like to improve:

1. the brake pedal is spongy as hell. It will stop when you need it too, but it takes a lot of pedal travel and pedal pressure to really get the brakes to grab.

2. The steering feels pretty stiff relative to what I was expecting. My 96 powerstroke steers like a dream compared to this 06 duramax. When pulling into parking spots and such, it takes a lot of effort to steer this big rig.

After doing some reading, it sounds like these 2 issues could both be improved by flushing the fluid in both systems. I think I will start by flushing the power steering fluid from the hydro boost like HookEm shows in his write up (which looks excellent). I am going to pop the tops on both reservoirs tonight and see what the fluid looks like. I am almost hoping it looks bad so that a fluid flush will help significantly. I hope these issues are not caused by a bigger problem.

Anyhow, here are a couple photos of the truck at the house yesterday! I am still excited, even with the steering and braking needing some work.





Quote:
Originally Posted by plumbcut View Post
Thats an excellent price. Glad it worked out for you. Regarding the pump rub, you wont see the hole until its too late. And even then its very hard to spot. Post pics when its finally in your driveway!
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DAH7 View Post
Hey guys, I currently own a 96 ford 7.3 4x4 supercab. Wife wants a baby soon and would like a newer truck with 4 doors for our road trips with the toy hauler. We live in Phoenix and tow a 6k lb toy hauler (can be around 8-10k lbs depending on what is loaded in it). We take a handful of road trips to the Glamis sand dunes every season, other than that, the truck would be a daily driver and occasionally tow a 7k lb boat to the lake.

I have come a cross an original owner 2006 chevy LT 2500 4x4 crew cab short bed. The truck looks reasonably clean for being 15 years old, white in color and has 220k miles. I believe it is the LBZ motor because the 8th digit of the Vin# is a '2'. Truck seems to be all stock. Owner is asking $15k...

I went to look at the truck and it has a fairly significant oil leak, owner said maybe a drop a day or so. He seems like decently honest guy and doesnt seem to be hiding anything that I can tell. Paint has a lot of chipping, he said he thinks the 2006 white duramax had an issue with this. I'm not too worried about the paint because I cant afford a new truck, and most of the significant paint damage is on the top of the cab anyhow. The truck interior seems well kept for its age as well.

He has offered to come down to $13k from his original asking price of $14k

I do not want to make a ton of horsepower or add crazy tuning. Maybe add tunes for improved MPG's while daily commuting and a towing mode at most. I just want a reliable tow rig for family road trips. I am perfectly fine making a couple small mods to further increase reliability.

Does this truck seem like a good fit for my family based on your guys knowledge?

thanks in advance, this is my first time in a Duramax forum!





that is a LOT or rust, looks like its been like that for a while too so its probably badly pitted as well. The oil leak may be nothing major, or it could be a problem. Its hard to say. As others have mentioned if its got this stuff noticeably wrong, what else are you not hearing about? If that leaks from the main seal though, thats going to be costly.

There is a common oil leak on the early trucks from the oil pan, just a slow seep which is what this sounds like but that does not mean you should not look into it further. Also that truck appears to have at least aftermarket exhaust on it, and it looks new relative to the truck so that raises some questions as well.

My gut is telling me to walk away from that truck unless the guy is willing to sell it for maybe 8-9K. Otherwise its too much of an unknown for me. You could easily have several thousand dollars of repairs to just the things you already know about on that truck.

If its the best you can find in a price range you can afford, i would take it to a reliable shop of YOUR choosing for an inspection before agreeing to buy it.

You could fix the roof yourself with rattle can and some glazing compound if you dont care how good it looks, but that does need to be addressed sooner than later or your going to end up with a permanent moon roof.

Other major things to check for would be:

Fuel in oil
Oil level (high is bad)
Trans fluid color (exhaust makes me think tuned, makes me think limped)
coolant color (dark is bad, soot is very bad)
blow by out the oil fill
lopeing / rough idle / surging idle

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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J83,
thanks for the reply man. I appreciate the info. I had the truck inspected prior to buying it and it was at a shop of my choosing. The owner of the shop thought the truck was in pretty good shape outside of the paint. He even mentioned to the seller that he himself may be interested in the truck if my deal fell through. Although this doesnt mean the truck is perfect, a good inspection report seemed better than the alternative ( a poor inspection report). The owner of the shop also commented on how rare it is for a 2006 duramax to come into their shop completely bone stock. I did crawl around under the truck a lot when looking it over before buying and I didn't notice any signs of an aftermarket exhaust, but that certainly doesn't mean you are wrong. I'll have to check it out tomorrow when im working on the truck.

Yes, the paint on the roof of the cab is unsightly, and it's probably something I should address soon, I completely agree.

Thanks again for the list of things to check, I will look into each of those throughout the week and report back.

I just got done flushing the power steering fluid this evening. I just used regular old Prestone power steering fluid because it was clear and I wanted to be able to see when the fluid was coming out clear. I flushed out a full 2 quarts and she is steering better now. I also noticed the brakes feel a million times better after doing this. The pedal is no longer soft and squishy and the brakes grab much sooner with a lot less pressure needing be applied to the pedal. I am planning to flush the brake fluid and bleed the brakes later this week as well. I was very encouraged with the improvement after the power steering flush.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J83 View Post
that is a LOT or rust, looks like its been like that for a while too so its probably badly pitted as well. The oil leak may be nothing major, or it could be a problem. Its hard to say. As others have mentioned if its got this stuff noticeably wrong, what else are you not hearing about? If that leaks from the main seal though, thats going to be costly.

There is a common oil leak on the early trucks from the oil pan, just a slow seep which is what this sounds like but that does not mean you should not look into it further. Also that truck appears to have at least aftermarket exhaust on it, and it looks new relative to the truck so that raises some questions as well.

My gut is telling me to walk away from that truck unless the guy is willing to sell it for maybe 8-9K. Otherwise its too much of an unknown for me. You could easily have several thousand dollars of repairs to just the things you already know about on that truck.

If its the best you can find in a price range you can afford, i would take it to a reliable shop of YOUR choosing for an inspection before agreeing to buy it.

You could fix the roof yourself with rattle can and some glazing compound if you dont care how good it looks, but that does need to be addressed sooner than later or your going to end up with a permanent moon roof.

Other major things to check for would be:

Fuel in oil
Oil level (high is bad)
Trans fluid color (exhaust makes me think tuned, makes me think limped)
coolant color (dark is bad, soot is very bad)
blow by out the oil fill
lopeing / rough idle / surging idle
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