Lift Pump Filtering - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
06-07 LBZ & LLY Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 06-07.5 LBZ/LLY Duramax Trucks No Advertising

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post #11 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 10:09 AM
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Ahh crap. I just bought one with the Nicktane kit b/c they seemed to have pretty good ratings. And only 20 bucks when I would need a new filter. I know Racor seems to be a pretty highly spoken about filter too. And I know the which filter topic has been beaten to death. I'm just trying to preserve these injectors!

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post #12 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 10:19 AM
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Ahh crap. I just bought one with the Nicktane kit b/c they seemed to have pretty good ratings. And only 20 bucks when I would need a new filter. I know Racor seems to be a pretty highly spoken about filter too. And I know the which filter topic has been beaten to death. I'm just trying to preserve these injectors!


I wouldnít worry about it. I know dozens of guys with hundreds of thousands of miles on them with no issues. Itís better than just deleting the one in the engine bay thatís for sure.
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post #13 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 10:23 AM
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I wouldnít worry about it. I know dozens of guys with hundreds of thousands of miles on them with no issues. Itís better than just deleting the one in the engine bay thatís for sure.
I don't have any intention of doing that. For many reasons, but the big one being, if the LP ever gives out or fails, then you got almost no protection. So that's my biggest reason for having a fully functional and independent fuel filter up front!

2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax - Crew Cab
265/75/16s (Retired the 305/65/16s, for now)
PPE Xcelerator - Tune # 2 - Just kidding, now level 4
Nicktane Fuel Filter Adapter and Donaldson FF
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post #14 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 10:25 AM
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That and if one of your several rubber hoses between the lp and the filter start deteriorating then you have nothing to protect the system from that material.
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post #15 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 10:29 AM
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I've never even thought about that piece. Only debris, apart from the fuel debris I thought of was the wear on the inside of the fuel lines making there way up. Which is another reason to keep fresh filters.
Any idea how often the fuel lines should be replaced? Or if they haven't yet, (Truck has 95k on it) should they be?

2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax - Crew Cab
265/75/16s (Retired the 305/65/16s, for now)
PPE Xcelerator - Tune # 2 - Just kidding, now level 4
Nicktane Fuel Filter Adapter and Donaldson FF
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post #16 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 10:38 AM
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I've never even thought about that piece. Only debris, apart from the fuel debris I thought of was the wear on the inside of the fuel lines making there way up. Which is another reason to keep fresh filters.

Any idea how often the fuel lines should be replaced? Or if they haven't yet, (Truck has 95k on it) should they be?


No life expectancy as far as I know. Seems to be more of a years old thing than mileage.
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post #17 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BoomZackalacka View Post
And only 20 bucks when I would need a new filter.
Replacing my tertiary filter up front, I just ordered/received a new acDelco TP3018 (4Ķm @99.9%), stock location....less than $28 to my door.
Saw it at the auto parts for $60
$40 extra, the kit pays for itself quick. $7.76...not so quick.

Bonus; installing an aux FWS (typically a 10Ķm) BF1212 pre lift pump, will greatly increase the lifespan of the (now secondary) stock filter up front, leading to fewer replacements.
That's some pretty good filtration for the LB7, water removal and fine particulates.
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Last edited by Hook'em_Horns!; 10-02-2018 at 05:22 PM.
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post #18 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 05:44 PM
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That AcDelco filter TP3018 is a direct connect to the Nicktane adapter I assume??
To your bonus point. I was reading typically replacing the fuel filters around 10k is recommended but with a LP added, the under the hood filter can go up to 50k ish?


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2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax - Crew Cab
265/75/16s (Retired the 305/65/16s, for now)
PPE Xcelerator - Tune # 2 - Just kidding, now level 4
Nicktane Fuel Filter Adapter and Donaldson FF
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post #19 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 06:04 PM
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No. The TP3018, like the Racor PFF50216, are for the stock filter head.

Miles is not necessarily a proper gauge for change intervals, gallons used would be more accurate.
After my LP install, following the DIC %, I changed the first two filters (either side of the LP) @ 0%. On the 2nd two, I wanted to see how far it'd go, so when I reached 0%, I reset it and kept going.

@ 40% more (60% remaining), I started to feel a difference in power pulling heavy and went ahead and swapped them out again.

At that time, I went ahead and removed the stock Racor up front and cut it open to inspect. That tertiary filter had approx 3000 gals of fuel ran thru it.
You can see the pics of the guts I posted on my LP kit thread.

Sparkling clean, thru and thru. I wasted $35 cutting open a perfectly good filter, just to satisfy my curiosity. And to verify that the 1st two filters were doing their job, as spec'd.

It's now been 6 cycles of filter changes for the 1st two, and a fuel limp popped up the other day. So, I thought I'd order a new one, swap it, cut it open and inspect to see what's up.

With all fresh filters, you can establish a base line for monitored fuel pressure. Then check it later on down the line, looking for any changes that would point toward a restriction, not just guess at a predetermined mileage mark.

There was a member posted not long ago, running the stock filter after the fass filters.
They pulled the 3rd filter, cut it open and it was black, not white. The famed fass filters weren't doing the job as advertised. And the User was very glad that they chose to keep the stock filter up front.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
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post #20 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-02-2018, 08:53 PM
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Just because I haven't got anything better to do I'm going to post my thoughts on lift pumps and filters. These are things I have gleaned from reading here and things I have figured out from think about it. I'm not a filters engineer or a pump designer. This is just what makes sense to me.

When GM decided to put a filter on Duramax trucks they incorporated 4 additional items into the filter. It is also a heater, a primer pump, a water filter and a water sensor. If someone wants to do something more with the fuel system they need to keep in mind the things that GM did and duplicate them with whatever they do.

I would keep the stock filter head and filter as installed by GM. There are several reasons for this. I think they put the filter where it is so that no matter what comes down the line and where it comes from it will get filtered out just before it enters the CP. There are lots of potential sources of contamination upstream of the CP and it is a really good idea to get them filtered out at the very last opportunity. The more components there are in the fuel stream ahead of the CP the more you need the OEM filter to protect the CP.

I like lift pumps. But, I don't think they are mandatory unless you have extra filters in place. The CP is designed to work with a slight inlet vacuum but a little pressure won't hurt. More than 10 psi though is unneeded and potentially harmful simply because the housing of the CP isn't designed to take a lot of pressure. Additional pressure in the inlet will not help the CP since it produces around 25,000 psi. What good will an extra few psi at the inlet do? The biggest advantage of a lift pump is that it eliminates any chance of an air leak in most of the fuel lines. It also enables multiple filters in series that would create significant pressure drops if there was nothing to compensate. The result of multiple filters should be very clean fuel. Clean fuel leads to long lasting CPs and injectors.

The disadvantage to multiple filters is that they need more maintenance including heating to prevent fuel waxing in cold weather. In the south this may not be important but high up or in the north you just can't get by without preheating the fuel before it enters the very first filter.

I don't like high capacity lift pumps. People will sell anything the public will buy. Just because there is a higher capacity pump available doesn't mean it is a good thing to have. Anything over 50 GPH is excessive and anything over 100 GPH is proof that the right salesman can sell snow to Eskimos.

I like sumps because they eliminate any chance of an air leak between the tank and the lift pump making the whole system air leak proof.

The OP asked where the different kinds of filters should go. It depends on the setup but I think this is the best policy in general:

The first thing to do is to heat the fuel so that it won't wax and clog up the various screens and filters. The best place to do this would be in the tank, but just ahead of the first filter would do.

Some lift pumps emulsify water in the fuel pretty thoroughly, breaking it up into very small droplets. The water separator depends to a certain extent on the size of the water droplets to screen them out. Because of this, the next thing the fuel should see is a water separator. This is often part of a filter but the filter has to be selected for that use. Not all filters are also water separators. This filter will also protect the lift pump from debris that might be in the fuel tank. I've been inside a lot of fuel tanks and I have yet to find one that didn't have junk in it that I wouldn't want to pass through my fuel system. I would try to mount this filter so that the inlet to it was as low as possible to enhance gravity feed, thus eliminating the chance for an air leak. I would select a course filter/water separator for use here. All I would really want from it is water removal. Filtration would be a coincidental function.

The next thing the fuel should encounter would be the lift pump. Having already passed through a filter, the fuel could potentially be under a slight vacuum. If the water separator is maintained properly and the fuel tank is kept reasonably full it shouldn't be much of a vacuum, if any at all. Vacuum is a bad thing because it draws in air, given the opportunity. I would try to mount the lift pump with the pump as low as possible and the motor above it. Many people do it the other way up but I think that is a mistake.

The next thing would be the finest filter in the system. Since this one is after the pump it will be under pressure. It would not be important how it was oriented. If it got a little plugged it wouldn't hurt because the lift pump would overcome the resistance and the CP would never know the difference. I would have it situated so that it was easy to change the filter because it would be the filter most likely to get dirty first.

With the finest filter in second place the OEM filter would not catch much. Primarily it would be filtering out anything that entered the system after the middle filter. It would pass most things the middle filter missed. If the middle filter failed the OEM filter would be there as a last chance to save the CP and injectors.

If I did all of this I would finish the job with a fuel pressure gauge. I would measure the pressure at the CP inlet and as long as there was any at all under maximum load I'd consider the filters to be serviceable. I'd carry a spare filter for each location just in case.

One of the arguments put forward to support larger lift pumps is that pumping more fuel with a lift pump than the engine can use will circulate the excess fuel back to the tank where it can be recycled multiple times and be filtered again and again. This doesn't happen unless you do something to make it happen. The CP always pumps more than the engine can use. The fuel pressure in the rails is regulated by bleeding some of the excess fuel off. That goes back to the tank.

Pumping more fuel to the CP will not cause the CP to pump more to the engine. If it is desired to refilter the fuel more times it is necessary to provide a bleed back to the tank somewhere after the filters but before the CP. This has to be done with a pressure regulator that bleeds off excess fuel to maintain pressure. A regulator that simply blocks excess pressure will not help. I would do this but I wouldn't have an excessive capacity lift pump just for this purpose. I would depend on a 50 GPH pump to provide 3-10 GPH to the CP at 5 PSI and the other 40-47 GPH would go back to the tank for another pass. (3-10 GPH equals 6 to 20 MPG at 60 MPH, about what we typically get)

This is what I would/will do. If I am wrong then please tell me so. I might have missed something.
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Last edited by mizterwizard; 10-02-2018 at 09:03 PM.
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