Egr delete questions - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2019
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Egr delete questions

Hi guys I just joined the forum I'm sure this has been asked but I just got an 07 lbz 210k miles bone stock from an older guy took good care of it it's my first diesel I'm not looking for max power out of a 200k mile duramax but I do tow a little and I'm looking to delete it and do efi live with the edge monitor I planned on just buying parts every check and putting it all together in a month or so but first things are lift pump and exhaust this week I go back on hitch in a week so they'll probably sit at home till I'm back. I've been looking into egr deletes I know not to just to just do blocker plate or anything like that I've looked into y bridge and all that but my question is can I just buy a y bridge kit that has the y bridge and cold side piping and an up pipe or are there other parts a delete kit for it comes with? I felt like the best way to do it right the first time would be the y bridge to avoid boost leak and the up pipe to not have blocker plates but if I buy both of those am I going to be missing any parts for that delete? I know I cant install until tuning but I'm making sure I wont be missing parts when I order this
Thanks guys
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 08:06 AM
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generally yes if you get a kit from a reputable company then it will, for the most part, include the parts needed. if you don't have a lb7 uppipe or welded one already then some kits have an option to add one for an additional price. but they generally include the y-bridge itself and the charge pipe to delete the egr and cooler system.

2010 GMC Sierra 2500 CCSB Black, 5"'straight piped, EFI
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Ok that's what I was wondering if those 3 pieces were all I needed I only saw the werhli kit giving me the option but wasn't trying to break the bank in deleting it. Thanks!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 05:55 PM
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If you are trying to do it on the cheap then don't replace the charge pipe or y-bridge. Delete the egr cooler and egr valve, cap the holes on the stock charge pipe, replace the passenger up pipe with an LB7 piece and get the coolant hose extension.

MBRP 3" down pipe/4" straight pipe, PPE Xcelerator, FASS 150, Beans sump, deleted, pump rub fix
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:35 PM
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I just ordered a WC Fab EGR delete with Y bridge and up pipe. I asked the same questions you did when I first started down this road. It all started with codes from EGR temps. With the help of this site and others, I decided I don't want the leaks from the stock Y bridge rings, bellows and blocker plate. But it is costly. I just don't want to do this twice. Once the EGR is deleted, you need to tune out the engine check light or ignore it. Not an option in my mind as you need to know when the check light is legit for something else. Scared for the EGR delete but excited to get away from it at the same time.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 02:55 AM
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I think the least expensive EGR delete kit is the Sinister Kit. Ive had one for a couple years on an LMM with no problems at all.

You may find this thread helpful with ur truck too:

2008 Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel
FASS 95 Lift Pump (with Baldwin filters), Edge Insight CTS Monitor on a Windshield Mount, Nicktane Fuel Filter Adapter w/ CAT 306-9199 UHE tertiary fuel filter, Bilstein 5100 Stock Height, MBRP Downpipe back 4" exhaust with muffler and FTE 30" resonator/muffler, Sinister EGR Delete, Tuned but wont say who did it, Bushwacker Bed Rail Caps, AMP Research Bedstep, Fumoto oil drain valve, Dorman PS Oil cooler, Pioneer AVIC 7200NEX GPS/Stereo, Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Bags.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 03:17 PM
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I would save money until you can
Originally Posted by Brad07lbz View Post
do it right the first time
Maybe not necessarily "right" but until you can do it the way you want the first time. It has 200k on it. A few more thousand miles to save up the money wont matter. Anything thats going to happen is GOING to happen.
Go ahead and do a PCV reroute. Buy the billet fittings and then determine how you are going to route the hose and only buy what you need. I routed mine basically up and then down to just above the inside of the wheel well liner. Shorter distance = less backpressure. I may end up extending it but it hasnt caused an issue for me to entertain that idea yet.

I installed an HSP y-bridge (see link in sig). Its a two piece bolt together. My build thread has details and pics of it. Might help you decide on what you want when you get the $$.

IMO if your y-bridge neck is stiff/no play then i'd hold off on spending the money. Instead, i'd check your fuel hoses and spend money upgrading/replacing them (see my thread on this as well). If they havent been replaced your hoses will likely cause problems before your bridge/neck

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

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