Batteries good, will baaarely crank. Starter/Solonoid/GlowPlug Relay??? - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
07.5-10 LMM Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Batteries good, will baaarely crank. Starter/Solonoid/GlowPlug Relay???

So may truck is having a helluva time starting at any temp below 40. The starter will crank for maybe a second before I no longer have juice, then I have to throw a trickle charger on it. I'm in the southeast, so had no real reason to fish out the block heater plug until the last few weeks. If the block heater is plugged up for a few hours prior, it'll start, but only if I haven't attempted to start it already. Otherwise it's block heater + trickle charger, a bit absurd for a single night at 40 degrees. It past winters, it's started without assistance down in the mid teens.

No codes, and I can see the voltage initially drop for a couple seconds for the glow plugs, then return to roughly 12-14. No other electrical issues.

Any ideas? Or more accurately, what should I be checking to narrow it down?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Kanalos View Post
So may truck is having a helluva time starting at any temp below 40. The starter will crank for maybe a second before I no longer have juice, then I have to throw a trickle charger on it. I'm in the southeast, so had no real reason to fish out the block heater plug until the last few weeks. If the block heater is plugged up for a few hours prior, it'll start, but only if I haven't attempted to start it already. Otherwise it's block heater + trickle charger, a bit absurd for a single night at 40 degrees. It past winters, it's started without assistance down in the mid teens.

No codes, and I can see the voltage initially drop for a couple seconds for the glow plugs, then return to roughly 12-14. No other electrical issues.

Any ideas? Or more accurately, what should I be checking to narrow it down?
You're measuring the battery open circuit voltage, not the voltage under load (which is what determines if a battery is good or not). Have the batteries load tested and report back; I suspect one (or both) are bad. If either is bad, replace both batteries.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by jdwarren View Post
You're measuring the battery open circuit voltage, not the voltage under load (which is what determines if a battery is good or not). Have the batteries load tested and report back; I suspect one (or both) are bad. If either is bad, replace both batteries.
I'm about to pick it up from the shop after work, but I got the impression the guys pulled the batteries to test them. I'll get clarification. Thanks.

(I'm not leaving it with them to further trouble shoot because I have to travel for work in the morning and need my truck full of shit)
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 02:56 PM
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Sounds to me like the batteries have voltage but no amps. Load testing is the only way to test that and see if they drop when a load is applied. We run into that a lot in the ag and turf world

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 03:21 PM
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I'm about to pick it up from the shop after work, but I got the impression the guys pulled the batteries to test them. I'll get clarification. Thanks.

(I'm not leaving it with them to further trouble shoot because I have to travel for work in the morning and need my truck full of shit)
If "the guys" are not professional mechanics, make sure they're very clear about what they mean by "testing the batteries". Even a brand new battery may well drop to about 7V when under a starting load, so if they're telling you that they're at 12V or 12.5V or whatever that should indicate that they did not do an actual load test.

If the truck runs fine once started and exhibits no charging system issues, I'd be willing to bet that you've got at least one bad battery. I'd throw out the possibility of bad connections between the batteries and starter but the fact that it seems to behave differently after the first attempt makes me think it's just plain old bad batteries. Can't hurt to check and clean/tighten the connections (12V and ground) anyway, though.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 08:21 PM
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if your batteries are over 3 years old, I'd automatically replace them anyway. That's about the life of them on modern vehicles (2001 and newer) Make sure you do a charge on the new ones before you install as well, you want them to be full fresh.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 08:23 PM
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Also- I'd throw the block heater/coolant heater/whatever the heck it is- on for about 2 hours prior to you starting it in the morning when it gets below 40. it really does help the truck start faster and the warmer the oil/block is when you do your first start up, the easier the oil will circulate and reduce damage/wear. It works!! Also be sure to run a full synthetic oil and premium oil filter. it WORKS. It Makes a difference!

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020, 09:00 PM
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Make sure they disconnect the cables so not reading both batteries under load test.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2020, 06:04 PM
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Below 40! Holy crap! Turn the sun up 60 degrees and try again! That’s insane cold!

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2020, 08:56 PM
 
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Originally Posted by DMAXfirefighter View Post
Sounds to me like the batteries have voltage but no amps. Load testing is the only way to test that and see if they drop when a load is applied. We run into that a lot in the ag and turf world
RE: my IH2290
Would not start. Would not even make a "click" sound. Lights worked.
Both batteries checked out with Volt Meter.
Took them to my NAPA Dealer for load testing. One OK; One not OK; bought one new battery. Trickle charged them overnight.

Still same results. (Lights - Check.) (Start - Nothing.)

I had a similar problem with my CASE 580N. On that machine I left the new starter switch in but, bypassed it with a pushbutton in the starter circuit. (the fuel solenoid open/close operates off the starter switch. Runs like a charm.

So, I plan to bypass the starter switch with a pushbutton on my 2290. In this case the fuel system is all manual. Hope that works.
What do you think? Thank you in advance.
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