Extremely hard radiator hose - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
07.5-10 LMM Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Extremely hard radiator hose

My radiator hose is rock hard after driving it. Coolant get up to around 210. Doesn’t overheat ever. I got a block tester today and the color didn’t change at all perfectly blue. Changed the thermostats this winter when it was -40. Seemed to work fine.

2008 Chevy 3500 6.6l lmm
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 05:42 PM
J83
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My radiator hose is rock hard after driving it. Coolant get up to around 210. Doesn’t overheat ever. I got a block tester today and the color didn’t change at all perfectly blue. Changed the thermostats this winter when it was -40. Seemed to work fine.
The hose should be hard after driving it, the system is under 15 ish PSI of pressure while up to temp. That extra atmosphere or pressure raises the boiling point of the water in the system from 212 degrees to somewhere around 250 degrees. This is a good thing as it keeps the water from boiling inside the cooling system which would be undesirable (this is also why you get doused in boiling water when you take the radiator cap off a hot engine since the pressure drops allowing the water to spontaneously boil). So long as the hose is getting soft when the engine is cold, that is normal operation of the cooling system. If you think the system may be pressurizing more than the 2 ATM that its designed for they do make pressure testers for the cooling system that will tell you the internal pressure of the system.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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My radiator hose is rock hard after driving it. Coolant get up to around 210. Doesn’t overheat ever. I got a block tester today and the color didn’t change at all perfectly blue. Changed the thermostats this winter when it was -40. Seemed to work fine.
The hose should be hard after driving it, the system is under 15 ish PSI of pressure while up to temp. That extra atmosphere or pressure raises the boiling point of the water in the system from 212 degrees to somewhere around 250 degrees. This is a good thing as it keeps the water from boiling inside the cooling system which would be undesirable (this is also why you get doused in boiling water when you take the radiator cap off a hot engine since the pressure drops allowing the water to spontaneously boil). So long as the hose is getting soft when the engine is cold, that is normal operation of the cooling system. If you think the system may be pressurizing more than the 2 ATM that its designed for they do make pressure testers for the cooling system that will tell you the internal pressure of the system.
Okay so what would cause there to be more psi then the 15psi if that is the case?

2008 Chevy 3500 6.6l lmm
Airdog 4g lift pump
Wcfab ybridge and egr delete.
Edge monitor with egr probe
PPE RACE FUEL VALVE
Efilive by Cory Willis and switch
Flatbed with Hydraulic hayspear
3 inch lift, lifts for less.
PVC re route
65mm upgraded turbo
51 gallon aux tank
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 09:33 AM
J83
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Okay so what would cause there to be more psi then the 15psi if that is the case?
a blown head gasket is the most likely cause.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:31 AM
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Or a faulty cap or whatever is in the system to prevent over pressure.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:38 AM
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Or a faulty cap or whatever is in the system to prevent over pressure.
true, but the pressure would be coming from the water in the system based on the temperature of the water. so unless the head gaskets were leaking there would be a finite pressure you could reach at any given temperature. Given the OP is making it sound like the hose is rock hard with standard temperatures, that to me would indicate its more than just slightly over pressure, and the only way i see that happening is if there was a source of pressure in the system besides the water which leads me to headgaskets.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 11:11 AM
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Extremely hard radiator hose

Disregard....
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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true, but the pressure would be coming from the water in the system based on the temperature of the water. so unless the head gaskets were leaking there would be a finite pressure you could reach at any given temperature. Given the OP is making it sound like the hose is rock hard with standard temperatures, that to me would indicate its more than just slightly over pressure, and the only way i see that happening is if there was a source of pressure in the system besides the water which leads me to headgaskets.
so why wouldn't the color change on the block tester if head gasket was bad?

2008 Chevy 3500 6.6l lmm
Airdog 4g lift pump
Wcfab ybridge and egr delete.
Edge monitor with egr probe
PPE RACE FUEL VALVE
Efilive by Cory Willis and switch
Flatbed with Hydraulic hayspear
3 inch lift, lifts for less.
PVC re route
65mm upgraded turbo
51 gallon aux tank
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Or in my case the oring on the hard pipe going into the water pump which was allowing the system to suck air. You can read all the details and the fix by clicking the link in my SIG “Hi-Temp Oring Kits”.
im not sure where to find SIG I don't know my way around this site yet. if its your signature I don't see what you're talking about.

2008 Chevy 3500 6.6l lmm
Airdog 4g lift pump
Wcfab ybridge and egr delete.
Edge monitor with egr probe
PPE RACE FUEL VALVE
Efilive by Cory Willis and switch
Flatbed with Hydraulic hayspear
3 inch lift, lifts for less.
PVC re route
65mm upgraded turbo
51 gallon aux tank

Last edited by knightstilepro; 08-14-2019 at 05:39 PM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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another thing I will say is I didn't have this issue that I remember until I let it sit for 3 months in the winter and some critters chewed up some wires. it ran really bad so I took out the harness and repaired what I could find.

2008 Chevy 3500 6.6l lmm
Airdog 4g lift pump
Wcfab ybridge and egr delete.
Edge monitor with egr probe
PPE RACE FUEL VALVE
Efilive by Cory Willis and switch
Flatbed with Hydraulic hayspear
3 inch lift, lifts for less.
PVC re route
65mm upgraded turbo
51 gallon aux tank
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