LMM fuel return line at the tank - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
07.5-10 LMM Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 2007.5 to 2010 LMM Duramax Trucks No Advertising

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
D60
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LMM fuel return line at the tank

I managed to nick the fuel return line at the tank - long story but unimportant (I waive and accept all readings and accusations of dumb-assery)

Anyway, it's not THAT bad although it doesn't give me warm fuzzies.

Option 1 is try to repair with a barbed fitting. Since this takes 3/8" disconnects I'm ASSuming the ID is 3/8"? Is there any reason to worry about flow restriction caused by the ID of a 3/8" barbed fitting on the return line??

Option 2 is replace, and actually I have one on order just in case. In searching the web I stumbled upon Lines To Go who offers both the supply and return line in braided SS. I'm not particularly concerned with material/construction here but their site provided OEM part numbers, with the return line appearing to be GM 15167372. Can anyone confirm this is actually the right part for an '08 GMT900?

Rock Auto's site suggests the above part # is only good thru '07, but their application guide, while good, is far from perfect. Amazon also claims it won't fit an '08 but we all know their guide is virtually worthless.

If only I'd nicked the supply line which gets removed in the lift pump install!! Doh.

I guess option 3 is just run straight fuel line with a hose clamp at each end, this is basically what the Kennedy setup does for the supply line (with an option of quick connects, included).
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 04:07 PM
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Its a return line so if you dont seal it up it'll leak versus getting air into the system.

Run some Parker 39705 or Aeroquip hose and use good hose clamps. Sounds like you nicked a rubber line so you shouldnt need more than 2-4 feet. Problem is your shipping might cost the same as the hose.

NOTE: someone is going to call me out for mentioning the parker hose as much as i do. I like it b/c it bends easier which doesn't strain the points i'm trying to connect. Something to be concerned about, probably not. However, things NOT under stress *should* be much less prone to failure than things under stress.

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Last edited by knotReally; 10-11-2019 at 04:09 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 06:16 PM
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Use your VIN# and go to a website like GMPARTSNOW.COM and look up the stock part numbers for your truck.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 08:21 PM
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It's a low pressure line running from the cooler to the fuel module, you don't really even need clamps on it. Or if you do, nothing special.

Just use some bio-fuel compatible bulk 3/8" fuel line, no barb fitting needed.
Remove the quick connect ends on the line, slide the hose over the tubing ends, clamp 'er down, done.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
D60
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Yeah that's kinda what I was hoping for. In the shop I just happen to have some basic black fuel line from another project, it does at least say Made in USA. I'd like to get it going this weekend then when the OEM replacement line comes in next week it shouldn't take much to undo 2 clamps and push the new line on.

I will say - getting a disconnect tool on the return line at the tank is a bit of a bitch, there's just barely enough room between the hardline and the crown of the tank module. I spent more time messing with that than I should admit!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-11-2019, 09:43 PM
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Practice for when you do the lift pump.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2019, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well I wound up underwhelmed with the aftermarket fuel line I had solely because I naively thought I could get it up over the "hump" on the hard line, but was unable to do so, even getting the line very hot with my heat gun.

Even though I know it likely doesn't need much bite it sure seemed to just slide off the hardline damn easily without some sort of hump/relief and I wasn't comfortable with just clamping pressure of a hose clamp, mostly 'cause the people who generally operate the vehicle aren't capable of understanding what might happen, nor should they have to.

So for the time being I opted to use a 3/8" barbed coupling, which honestly seems like an incredibly solid repair and would likely suffice as permanent. I had to get the factory rubber line damn warm to get it all the way on the barbs, and I imagine it "melted" into place once cool (no, I didn't actually melt the line)

Also I stumbled upon the OTC 6511 which seems to specifically address the concerns of limited clearance at the tank discos, if anyone is a tool junkie like me.
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