KRs longevity build - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
07.5-10 LMM Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 2007.5 to 2010 LMM Duramax Trucks No Advertising

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post #11 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Removing Up Pipes

Well, i started soaking the up-pipe bolts in Kroil on sunday and put a coat on yesterday and today. I pulled the manifold-up pipe bolts yesterday with no issue but they were easier to get kroil on them.
It was either start working on the Lower steering bearing (read: pull the column) or try to get the turbo-up pipe bolts free. I'm putting off the steering column thing. That's just a bad deal.

Anyway, I was able to access all 6 bolts from the passenger wheel well. Mind you, i have it down to the frame so my conditions for working are near optimal. All of them took a good amount of torque to get free but i was able to get every single one of them out with no issues. Not sure if i can thank the Kroil or not but i didnt break a bolt off in the pedestal and i used kroil. Just sayin'

The driver side bottom bolt was a pain. My HF job of a breaker bar had too much play and the 1/2" wratchet wouldnt fit. Ended up borrowing a neighbors 12pt 12mm 3/8" socket and used a cheater on the wratchet. Having the pass side up pipe out made for accessing the driver side so much easier.

Now i just have to figure out how to get the driver side up pipe out. Looks like i'll have to remove the coolant line unless i can get something on the tab that held the heat shield. More to come...

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.
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post #12 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel hose - bio-d compatible

So my feed line that most complain about (as part of P0087) and end up replacing is very easy to access since i have some stuff outta the engine compartment and its even kinked a bit. I'm not throwing codes but since i have easy access I'm thinking to R&R.

However, what i've seen recommended is Park 601-8 fuel hose. The past 40 mins i have spent searching and calling local distributors and even Parker themselves (noone answered) has yielded no information as to whether that hose is bio compatible. It was mentioned in the above thread but parkers website does not mention it being bio-compatible.

Anyone confirm if Parker Hose 601-8 is bio-d compatible?

I've also found this stuff. Although the temp rating is 400F. Is that sufficient temp rating for being under hood?

UPDATE:
I did find Parker 397XX CARB Fuel Line as being B100 Compatible, following SAE J30R7, but the temp rating is only to 257F.

Also found Eaton GH100 hose but temp rating is still pretty low IMO.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 04-17-2019 at 11:10 AM.
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post #13 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Installing Up-pipes, down pipes and driver side manifold

For those that haven't installed up pipes or a down pipe i have a couple tips for making the install take roughly 1-2 hours. I know b/c i spent 8 hours confirming.

Reverse the removal for the install (driver up, passenger up, then downpipe). One should come to that logical conclusion but.. yea
Make sure the gaskets are in the right position. Ups-to-Turbo should have the big tab of the gasket in the middle between the two up pipe holes. Otherwise, and i'm just speculating, you might spend 30 min trying to get the bottom bolt on the driver side up pipe to thread to no avail.
Use the Harbor freight method of bolting it: Bolt it all up loose, THEN tighten.

I installed the Maxflow up-pipes with the ARP bolt kit from Dmaxstore. Before installing i wrapped the up pipes with PTPs lava heat wrap: 1"x50 for $32. 50' was enough to completely wrap both up-pipes. I had enough leftover that i wrapped the top part of the MBRP downpipe and wrap the passenger side manifold (since it doesnt sit flat like the driver side). Here's the wrapped downpipes. Took this before I installed the metal ties.


I also installed the MBRP downpipe. It was actually pretty easy to get in. Having the trans tube loose made it possible. The only drawback is that the trans tube is actually touching the down pipe. Granted, there is heat wrap on it but not sure what issues that might cause, hopefully none Aint much i can do without putting on some more nuts to space the tube further back to the firewall but i'm not so sure that would put any space between them.

Here's the final install pic. I was missing the DP support bracket bolt. Somehow I lost it. FYI its a M10x1.25 25-30mm length. I used 30mm with a washer and it snugged up just fine.





Yes, those black bolts are ARP bolts. I decided to run all ARPs since they're higher tensile strength. Overkill considering they're only torqued to 42ftlbs, i know, but i'd rather 'waste' money on that types stuff than on an intake or rims. Ordered them off Jegs.
For those wanting to run all ARP bolts on your LMM exhaust manifolds you will need the following:
10x - M10x1.5 60mm bolts (Part 662-1008 provides 5 bolts and washers)
1x - M10x1.5 35mm bolts (Part 662-1004 provides 5 bolts and washers, yes 4 extra; this is the short bolt on the driver side)
4x - 3/8"-16 hex nuts (Part 200-8654 provides 5 hex nuts) **waiting for these to come in as you can tell by the photo
1x - M10x1.5 100mm bolt (Part 662-1012 provides 5 bolts and washers, yes 4 extra; this is the long bolt on pass side)

I couldnt find any single bolt packages for the odd duck bolt on either side.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 04-22-2019 at 09:21 PM.
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post #14 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Lower Steering Bearing replacement part 2 of the some-beach series

Well, we're not done yet.

I decided i'm not going to do the workaround that is mentioned over at Dieselplace. Therefore, the steering column came out. Well, kinda. I'll post a pic later but I couldnt figure out how to get all the daggum connectors unplugged from underneath the steering wheel so my column is sitting half under the dash and half on the driver seat.
This is the only way i could get to the three T25 screws holding the shroud I mentioned and showed a video of in Part 1 of this series. Doing it this way only required unplugging three things: a big connector, small connector and the shift linkage. Again, I'll post photos since there hasnt been a writeup on this that i've found. UPDATE (4/23/19): I found this thread on here that shows a few better pictures than I do. Its a good reference as well.

Here's the mess i created.. (tilt your head. i dont know how to get'em vertical. They're fine on my computer) UPDATE: Fixed them!!!
Steering wheel column pulled out just a bit all connectors under wheel are still connected


The infinite wisdom of GMs engineering... the shroud


And the location of said shroud. Notice how the two ears/flat parts. That bolts up flat making it impossible to get to the three T25 screws without essentially doing what i did.

First of all, for my 2007 LMM the Dorman 905-512 is NOT the correct part.
I'm going by a dealership today on way home to take a look at part# 15775851 (i'll post an update if this is truly the correct part. i brought the old one with me to trust but verify b/c getting the wrong part is frustrating, not finding out its the wrong one until I'm ready to install flat out pisses me off).
They want $38.02+tax. Its $23.40 at gmpartsdirect but you have to pay shipping and you have to wait for the part. I'm wanting this part to be done so, if it's correct, I'll pony up.

more to come...

UPDATE: the part number above is the correct part. Here are some pics of the new and my old part. I'd apologize for the sideways photos but I dont do photo crap on the computer. They were vertical when i saved'em on my computer.




07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 05-10-2019 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Confirming part# 15775851 is the correct part
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post #15 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Just got an email from the Dmaxstore. My HSP y-bridge/cold pipe will arrive Thursday. Placed the order on April 7th so it will have taken 2.5 weeks to arrive, granted it is a built-to-order item. I ordered raw and plan to give it a coat of high temp black paint before installing.

Game plan for this week
Tues: Put tierods on centerlink; install steering bearing/button column back up; install upper and lower steering shafts
Wed: Finish tuesday work; prep for new y-bridge; install coolant reroute
Thurs: install new y-bridge; paint cold side tube
Fri: take the wife out
Sat/Sun: Reassemble the entire intake, new coolant, new thermostats, install exhaust, install tunes and dsp5 and see if she'll run. Once running with no issues:
install control arms, front shocks, hubs, cv axles, torsion bars, sway bar, centerlink, and the 285 KO2s
Then, install rear shocks, sulastic shackles and drop shackles.
Finally, adjust torsion bars to level.

Should be complete by mid-next week. I'm planning to pull a loaded trailer the following weekend so it's gonna have to be complete!

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.
knotReally is online now  
post #16 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Lower steering bearing replacement part 3 (complete)

Wrapped up the steering bearing last night. For those having the clunking noise, clanking noise you might want to look into this. See part 2 of this series (post #14) about the correct part to order. Also the bearing is cheaper than the ISS so you might want to investigate it before the ISS. I dont believe anything is actually wrong with my ISS after having installed the new bearing but i ordered one before coming to that conclusion. The shaft in the column is so much tighter and this ended up being not that bad of a chore to knock out. I ended up taking things apart i shouldn't have (accelerator pedal, etc) but here are the steps If i had to do it again:

NOTE: dont let the steering wheel turn too much. How much is too much? no friggin clue. People say the clock spring can be damaged but given my wheel articulates more than 360 degrees when i'm driving i assume an 1/8-1/4 turn when its disconnected is likely not going to hurt. I didnt let mine spin more than an 1/8 of a turn but, at this point, I havent been able to test to see if its damaged. Nothing popped/cracked and the airbag didnt deploy

0) disconnect battery. You're going to be all up in your steering wheels chili and you want to avoid at all costs converting your airbags potential energy into kinetic.

1) Disconnect ISS from steering column. 15mm nut on a 13mm head bolt

2) Remove the panel just below the steering column. two phillips screws and one 10mm bolt holding the parking break release and a connector for the trailer brake and remove the hoop (4 -10mm(?) nuts).

3) remove the steering bearing noting its position (i believe the goofy part of it is at the 5oclock position). It'll be easier to remove it here than once the column is not secured.

4) unplug the large connector left of the column. It has a blue lever you have to hinge back. There are two clips on either side you have to squeeze in order for the blue level to move.

5) Unplug the small connector on the right side of the column that is connected to the shift linkage

6) disconnect the shift linkage from the steering column. It just pops off, nothing special.

7) remove the metal clip from the shift linkage and unclip the shift linkage where it is secured to the column.

8) move the shift linkage out of the way (towards passenger side)
NOTE: this is the part where it is very helpful to have a second person helping you

9) unscrew the four 15mm nuts. Keep track of the washers. On mine there were two washers between the column and the mount on the two posts closest to the firewall. I didnt keep track of where they went i.e. which went to which side but i mic'd mine and they were nearly identical <.002" difference in thickness but same diameter

10) drop the column and pull it forward laying the steering wheel and shroud part on the driver seat leaving the column shaft resting on the structural part of the dash. Make sure your shift linkage doesnt get bound up/pinched/damage as the column wants to rotate towards it and i'm not sure how much it can handle before damage occurs.

11) remove 3 T25 screws so the ingenious shroud can be removed, remove shroud

12) Install the new bearing. If your forgot how it is positioned, near the big neck part of the bearing, there are two parallel plastic ridges (idk what else to call them), these ridges are straight in line with one of the snaps that holds it in place. The snap in line with those two... goes in the 12oclock position.

13) put everything back together

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 04-24-2019 at 06:48 AM.
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post #17 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 08:09 PM
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I am starting the same build out ...mayber not in the same order....following
post #18 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 03:40 AM
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Thanks!

Great thread KR! This is going to be helpful to a lot of folks out there.

Keep up the good work!



EFILive by RidgeRunner. 🤘 Fuel system support hardware, CCM front Diff Drop, some LEDs to make night into day, got some big ol 20's and wide ass tires and a nice display to show me what's up under the hood-

2012GMC2500CCSB
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post #19 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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Y-bridge removal

If you're going to do this you need to check out
. I'm not sure you could provide a more in depth video. However, I will advise i approached it differently but am still working on it.

A few tips from this process so far.
- do the zip tie thing that he does. It helps out a lot.
- I wiggled the up pipe on the y-bridge out before attempting to remove bolts. Its nice having it out of the way. It took a few minute and some motivation with a flathead but it came out. It looks like it wont when it first frees up but pull it back like a lever while lifting up. It'll come out. If you try to push it towards the turbo you'll hit something and, well, that didnt work for me.
- I did not remove my alternator as TM does in his video. It has not proven to be in the way nor an inconvenience.
- I unscrewed the line that tees off the steel radiator line that goes back towards the turbo. For the life of me i could not get that stock clip to go back far enough to pull the rubber line. I used a pair of vise grips to hold the clip as i unscrewed the connection from the steel coolant line. Doing this allowed me to disconnect the entire steel line/rubber hose assembly at the radiator and completely remove the tstat housing, steel line, and upper coolant hose.
- You do NOT need to unscrew the single bolt holding the steel coolant line to the tstat housing. This keeps you from disturbing the seal between the two and its not necessary to get it out.
- So far i have only disconnected two fuel lines. They were a bit tricky since theyve never been touched. A small flat head underneath them loosened them up. I do not think i'll need to disconnect any more but with a one-piece design I may need to. Note: its obvious which ones you need to
- The driver side rear bottom bolt was fairly easy to get to. I had to use 1/4" to get my sockets to fit but they're 10mm so no prob. Two extensions with wobble heads made that one almost as easy as the front. TM was right when he said having a magnet is a near must.
- the pass side rear bottom was a bit more challenging. I still used the same setup but with more extenstions and i used a 3" nearest the socket to give more articulation near the bolt. To get to this i went above the two metal lines on the driver side but below the rubber line just above them. Perfect angle. THEN i used a flat head to pry on the metal line on the front pass side of the turbo and pryed it towards the cab. It took me a while but i found that if you'll pry as far down the line as you can get it'll move just enough to wiggle a socket on there. This was not easy and took time. Get the socket over the bolt first then start prying decently hard to get it over the head/nut while spinning the socket. FWIW i'm leaving the daggum socket/extension setup there. I'll borrow tools but I am not going to fight that on the install. We'll see how that actually works out.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.
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post #20 of 55 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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help

so maybe someone smarter than me on here can advise how to get this last bolt out. I must be the only f**king LMM owner with this issue. The top rear pass side bolt cant come out any further due to the turbo.

Anyone know how to get it out without removing the turbo? I dont know what it takes to remove it but i aint got time for it.

i have no clue how to get the photos verticle. theyre saved vertically. its like daggum blinking christmas lights. makes no sense.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 05-13-2019 at 11:55 AM. Reason: updating picture
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