KRs longevity build - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
07.5-10 LMM Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 2007.5 to 2010 LMM Duramax Trucks No Advertising

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post #1 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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KRs longevity build

This is a modest build, if it can be called a build, and will likely bore most. Well, too bad. I'm shooting for longevity not power. Its not a DD so I plan to own this vehicle a long time (>15 years). I'm at 4.5 years w/ 124k miles. I'm the second owner.

She's up on stands with completely empty wheel wells at the moment but here's whats going down (yes, everything is being done at once. Its not a daily and I'm fortunate to have space to leave'r be when i'm not working):

Control Arms
Kryptonite UCAs
Stock LCA w/ Energy Suspension bushings and Kryptonite ball joints
New Bump stops - old ones were non-existent
Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and end links

Hubs
Kryptonite XD hubs

Steering stuff
Dmaxstore HD super stupid big tierods
Dmaxstore XD Pitman, Idler, and Idler support (the last being really nice since it came with a hose to finally relocate that hard-to-reach zerk)
Kryptonite PISK
I kept the stock centerlink and gear box. Although i'll probably check the gearbox before i re-install it.
LMM ISS bearing. Its not the same part as the LBZ/earlier models. See the some-beach series on the steering.
ISS (hopefully these two will remove my clunking noise. Thanks to mijdirtyjeep for the help)
P/S Cooler (thanks hook for the idea and write-up)

Shocks
Bilstein 5100 on the corners
Rancho RS7000MT in the middle
Sulastic shackles with 1.5" drop shackles
Dorman 905-509 torsion bar mounts

Mods
Deleted (thanks Timmay208 and D/AChris for the awesome write-ups)
Gates 18777 Molded Heater Hose - coolant reroute
DE K4113A exhaust
Maxflow up-pipes wrapped in PTP Lava Exhaust Wrap
LML port-side manifold (thanks DRC, i decided not to empty my wallet... at least not in this area)
LML Heat shield I tried pounding the old one. Needless to say how that worked out...
MBRP DP
HSP Max Flow y-bridge w/ Cold side tube
Dmaxstore PCV reroute
PPE T-case brace
Kennedy Single Lift pump deluxe kit (how-tos from hook, neutron, abreeden, and alisobob will all be helpful when I actually get to this)
AFE drop-in Proguard 7 Filter - thanks, again, for the idea DRC
Fuel filter housing spacer and billet bleed screw
PTP Turbo Blanket for Duramax ('04.5-'10)

Tunes
MotorOps - thanks for the rec, DRC.
5 tunes w/ DSP

Ground Contact
BFG KO2s (update: they now have a 50k mile warrantied tire: Its the KO2 DT)
285/70-17 on stockers (thanks tyreboyz for the tire info)
Leveled

Live 411
Edge Insight CTS2
EGT probe (not installed yet)

estimated time of completion: Late-April/Early-May (this year, of course).
Pics? maybe. Not doing anything flashy so the pics would be pretty vanilla (especially since my truck is white)
I do plan on, when i get time, posting my experiences from having performed this work. Most did this when their vehicles were younger. Mine is middle-aged so hopefully those getting their first LMM or modifying it for the first time can use this as a 'what to expect' POV.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 05-29-2019 at 07:38 PM. Reason: +1 link on lift pump
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post #2 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 05:24 AM
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My name is Nic
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post #3 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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Lower Control arms - Ball joint and bushing replacement

Reused Arms
Kryptonite Ball joints
Energy suspension bushings

Honestly, i think my ball joints were good. The boots were still decent but they had pinholes in them so any extra grease was pushed out. Just made for a good mess. So i've never pressed ball joints before but for future reference, on these LCAs, I won't ever think that I could actually do it with a rent-a-tool device. I ended up cussing and then paying someone to press out/in new ball joints. I took the LCAs off the pickup, first, and then set them up on a bench. The issue I had is that the topside of the LCA is not flat around the ball joint so your standard sleeve doesnt sit flat to apply pressure evenly. I ended up dimpling the sleeve I used. I had an impact wrench ($10 from a garage sale) but it was limited to probably 250ftlbs at best. I believe this saved me from breaking the press tool. I was pissed and would have kept going, broke the tool, then relocated random pieces of said tool, roughly, a stone's throw away. I tried using heat and Kroil, tapping (ok, beating) it with a hammer all while under pressure from the tool. No dice.
Save the time and just pay someone to do it.

The bushings, however, were no trouble just a little time consuming. The outside ring on them looked to be wearing but, honestly, after pressing them out they looked like i could have kept going. The inside rubber was still supple considering 124k miles and nearly 13yo. They weren't dried out. I used Energy Suspension bushings and am curious if I am going to regret not using rubber. Some on here have mentioned using using poly bushings for body mounts made for a terrible ride and went back to rubber. Yes, body mounts are different but we'll see. Getting the bushings out just required using said press tool from above and applying heat to the housing. Although the larger bushings, i did have to cut some of the rubber on the lip so i could make metal-to-metal contact with the press sleeve (just took some time). They popped out with ease. I had to reheat the larger bushing as it is much larger and I found out after heating that the press tool didnt fit. It cooled down before i started pressing and was very difficult to move. Reheat, apply c-clamp, press, money.
Installing the bushings was straight forward. I didnt follow the instructions. I put the metal sleeves in the poly bushings first then pressed the whole setup in. I imagine pressing the bushing then the sleeve might be easier but you'll be pressing both and have to use a lot of the lube. I was able to hand press the sleeves into the bushings thus not requiring any lube for that part. I only used slightly more than one packet of their grease doing it this way for both lowers (they give you 4 packets in the kit but it is an entire UCA/LCA kit). It did take me and my neighbor to press them in b/c of having to situate them and apply the press tool, just needed the hands. The larger bushing was too long and we barely made an 8" c-clamp work. With them well lubed though, a c-clamp is more than adequate to get'em in. I'd recommend going that route as its much easier than dealing with the press tool and the adapters.

Here's 3 of 4 bushings. Neighbors kid ran off with one. Anyway, they aint too bad. The sharp slicing is where i had to cut them in order to get the press to sit against metal on the LCA. the bushing covered the entire thing initially.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 05-10-2019 at 03:53 PM.
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post #4 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Stock exhaust removal @ 124k miles

Finally got around to finishing the exhaust. It had some rust on it so I reckon that can't be good. Better remove it before it contaminates the rest of the truck.
For starters, I soaked the v-band on the DP with kroil. I'd seen some talk about struggling with it and it being stuck. I didnt have this problem and the clamp cleaned up real nice. What i did notice is that there is some tension already on the DP and front pipe. taking the v-band off showed some recoil i was not expecting. Nothing crazy but it didnt line up on its own.

Next came the bolts at the flanges. I kroiled all of them. The cat/dpf was fairly easy. They all loosened up with some decent wrenching. 18" breaker was helpful. The DPF/Muffler flange was impossible. I hit it multiple times with kroil and still sheared two of the three bolts. Not surprising given its past the dpf which gets hella hot, pun intended. Just like others on here have mentioned, i left all sensors plugged into the DPF. Simply separated the part where the two lines are supported by the pipe itself and then took the single 13mm nut off the hanger where the black box plugs in just under the bed. All one piece.

I was hoping people were just lazy when they were talking about not being able to get the muffler/tip out without cutting it. They weren't. I played 20# tetris for about 15 min and then came to my senses (aka sawzall).

Half tempted to weigh the old exhaust just to see what the weight loss is compared to the new exhaust. Yes, it will be negligible but sometimes you just wanna know... ya know?

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.
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post #5 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 10:43 PM
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Sub'd

06 2500HD CCSB 4wd LBZ | Fleece Trans cooler lines |Red Head steering box|Edge Evolution CTS2 w/ EGT probe| Bilstein 5100s|Bilstein steering damper|Michelin Defender LTX M/S LRE| "OEM" Turbo Brake | Airlift # 88275 airbags
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post #6 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 05:21 AM
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EFILive by RidgeRunner. 🤘 Fuel system support hardware, CCM front Diff Drop, some LEDs to make night into day, got some big ol 20's and wide ass tires and a nice display to show me what's up under the hood-

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post #7 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Power Steering Cooler install part 1

I believe this is the easiest mod/change I've done and will do. I was able to do this without removing anything but the top plastic cover under the hood. I did not remove my grill. Installing the cooler just required removing the 10mm bolt on the top and then getting another bolt to secure the other arm of the cooler in front of the radiator stack. There are threads in the factory hole, at least on mine, that this goes into. Its the angled support that goes up to the hood latch. Mine fit a 6mmx30mm stainless steel bolt just fine. Nut/lock washer is not necessary unless you're the belt AND suspender types.. i used a nut/lock washer.

Tieing it in does require cutting a line. I found it easiest to remove the whole line to perform the dremel cut. To do that, just take off the clamp on the pump and then unscrew the connections on the gear box. the video wolfn8ter posted made it easy to knock this out.

NOTE: At this point i have not installed the gear box yet since pulling it to R&R the pitman arm so mines not plumbed in yet (hence the part 1). Also, I did have to hand bend the outlets of the cooler just a bit so they wouldn't touch the side of the inter cooler. Wasnt too difficult but it was necessary IMO.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 05-13-2019 at 01:25 PM.
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post #8 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Lower Steering Bearing replacement Part 1 of the some-beach series

For those that have the LMM this sucks. BTW, I'm thoroughly convinced that the steering bearing is the source of my clunking. It has a lot of play in it. The ISS and Lower Shaft are solid.

This is an easy task for the LBZ and earlier. Not for us LMM'rs. In GM's infinite wisdom they put a shroud over the steering shaft just before the upper ISS connection. Good call GM. Its fastened with three near impossible-to-get-to T25 screws. This makes it impossible to install a new bearing without modifying the stock situation (read: taking sh*t apart). I spent about 30-45 min searching for how-tos on this and only found this workaround over at DP. Well, i'm not the bandaid type.

I believe i can drop the steering column to get to this shroud but i'm not sure the trouble i might get into if i EFF something up in the process. However, to fix this correctly, i cannot see any other way. Currently i have the four column bolts loosened so it drops a little. I believe they are maxed out. Anymore and it will come down. I still do not have room to get a 1/4 wratchet with a T25 socket up there. I'm not sure if getting some torx allen-type wrenches would work. It wouldnt be fun if it does.
The other thought is to drill four holes in the shroud, in a square pattern, and then cut in between them. This moves the shroud out of the way to install the bearing but gives me a place to mount the bracket back with a scrap piece of metal and some whatever bolts. The reason for putting it back: it has a wire assembly at the end that holds the shift cable. I'm not sure if its needed but its there nonetheless. The only issue i have with this is all the metal fines in the vehicle.

Either way, the bearing needs to be replaced. Any suggestions/thoughts are greatly appreciated!


FYI - if anyone has any other warnings/tips/watch-outs other than the clockspring/SIR... please advise. After typing the dremel idea i'm more convinced to go that route but i don't like the idea of shavings going everywhere in the vehicle.

Update(4.13.19 0749hrs): if you go to 11 second in on the video below you will see the shroud on the far right with the wire attached to it. That rusted piece (mine's not rusted, no clue whats up with his) is what has to be removed or modified in order to get the Lower Steering Bearing removed and replaced on my pickup.

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 04-13-2019 at 04:43 PM.
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post #9 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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EGR delete - this is why

124k miles. The pictures, honestly, do not do it justice. Where it connects to the y-bridge, its getting close to 1/2" thick.
I'm still working on the EGR cooler. More to come...






07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.
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post #10 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Removing old exhaust parts

Alright, I finally finished removing the EGR cooler, Turbo heat shield, Down pipe heat shield, down pipe and the driver's side up pipe heat shield.

The how-to's I mentioned in my OP helped with the cooler removal. First thing, if you haven't performed the PCV reroute, you will want to as the stocker is completely in the way. I did the reroute at this time for except i just put the billet plugs in with paper towel wads in them. No sense having the hose in my way at this point. To remove the cooler follow all of the how-tos i linked in my OP but here are some additional things you will want to know:
1) noone i saw talks about how to get to the 12mm nuts that hold the up pipe to the cooler. one is easy to get to topside. I believe it was the port-side nut. Starboard side nut was a beast. NOTE: whoever said to get wratcheting wrenchs, thank you. I used that as an excuse to buy this set of wratcheting wrenchs for $50 and they have worked out great so far. I digress. The starboard side nut, i positioned the 12mm wratcheting wrench from topside but then used a piece of pipe (1" id) from the wheel well to push on the open end of the wrench upwards. I couldnt see doing it any other way. I couldnt get my hand on the wrench and still have enough umph to break the nut. Keep in mind that there is a line above your wrench if you tackle it like i did.
2) you also have to disconnect the EGR valve/motor (at this point IDC what its called). Its two bolts, one simple and one PITA. The bottom one is the fun one. Knock it out first. Once you get that egr motor thing out of there I'd recommend plugging the cooler outlets unless you like coolant everywhere. I'm telling you this because i found out that i like coolant every where (read: I did not know at the time to plug the outlets). Needless to say, I had an 'experience'.

Next was the turbo heat shield. This was actually fairly easy for me once I used a pair of vise grips. I only made one snip and it came out. When its on and you are looking at it, on the right, in front there is a structural piece that has one spot weld on the front. I snipped just above that spot weld. This then allowed me to bend the entire right/driver's side of the heat shield up enough, using vise grips for leverage, to then get it where i could remove it from the passenger side, pulling it out where the EGR cooler used to be. Yes you have to remove the glow plug controller and mount. To get to the third bolt on the mount, egress the line that is blocking you from the holder that is just in front of the mount. This will allow enough movement to get a socket down in there. (putting it back might be fun)

I havent decided if i'm going to put the heat shield back in yet. If i do, i'll probably modify it. We'll see.

On to the down pipe heat shield. Getting to the three bolts was interesting. I did two of them from the wheel well and one from top side. Although i think two could be done top side. I read somewhere that heat shield comes out the top and down pipe comes out the bottom. That is how i did it an it worked for me. But, you have to break the downpipe free before the heatshield will budge.

To break the down pipe free, I soaked the DP/Turbo band clamp with kano kroil. This is what i use to apply the kroil. I let it sit for about 30 min-1 hour and it broke free by hand. Then i broke the down pipe free by just wiggling it from the passenger wheel well. I had already removed the DP/exhaust clamp and removed the exhaust so i didnt have anything in the way. Once the down pipe is free from the turbo you can then just start wiggling everything to get the heat shield to come out topside. There is a coolant line but the part with the foil on it is a hose and it will move. I flexed it out of the way and out came the heat shield. The DP proved to be more trouble. Besides already having to unbolt the trans dipstick i tried removing the dipstick. This proved to be a quick way to get trans fluid into a pan STAT. So, dipstick did not get removed (that and i couldnt figure out how to anyway?). The key to getting the DP is to pull it over the frame, not between the trans and the frame. You just have to wiggle it until it comes free. I did not have to man-handle mine to get it to come out. Just had to find the sweet spot. For those that beat theirs up with a hammer to get it out, how the heck did you get a hammer in there TO beat it? no clue.

The driver's side heat shield (the only up pipe with a heat shield) was a piece of work. Seriously. I started thinking i was going to have to remove the coolant line but figured out that by making two small snips right above the bottom bolt hole on the shield that you could bend that back enough to then get it to clear the coolant line and then get the shield to come out topside where the EGR cooler used to be. Again, I learned this myself as i couldnt find any one actually talking about these details.

I'll take and post pics of the snips on the heat shields later. I started soaking the up pipe bolts with the kroil and will soak'em again tomorrow. Not sure what I'll work on tomorrow. Probably high time I take the centerlink apart and put back together with my stupid big DMAX store tierods.

update: here's how i snipped the turbo heat shield


Also, I think i'm going to go the blanket route instead of putting the stock shield back on. For those not knowing the different T# sizes, here is a sizing chart I found (believe it was off PTPs website).

07 Bowtie LMM CCSB Z: Nice truck, mad wife, empty wallet.

With all this "gun control" talk I haven't heard one politician say how they plan to take guns from criminals, just law abiding citizens.

Last edited by knotReally; 04-22-2019 at 10:16 AM.
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