Bad fuel filter? - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
11-16 LML Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc502 View Post
really,,I just changed my filter yesterday.I opened the bleeder,pumped till only fuel came out,closed bleeder,pumped till rock hard,started truck.didn't even stumble at all.
Thatís the way the mechanics at work do it, pump and bleed like bleeding brakes. Your way obviously works as well.

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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
I would just pump the primer button until firm, then try to start.
Opening the bleed screw lets the displaced air out from an empty filter after a change.
Your filter is already full of fuel, just pump until firm and start.

In extreme leak scenarios, you may also use an extra hand, continually pumping the primer while cranking.

Edit;
It's not uncommon for a failing seal to rear it's ugly head after a filter swap and prime....disturbing the seals in the primer button.
So this is what I came up with. I took the intake elbow off of the intake going into the intake horn, i then primed the filter and did notice a solid stream of diesel after cracking the bleeder. It looses prime almost instantly. Doens't even get all that hard really. But i am not noticing fuel anywhere, but mostly cus it is pitch black out and there is a puddle of melted snow under my truck.

After trying to start the truck, i noticed smoke coming out of the intake horn after it had sat for a few minutes after cranking. Is this normal?
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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Never mind, i got the truck to start long enough to get it in my garage. At first I was priming it like I would had I replaced the filter, by cracking the bleeder screw. After doing what Hook'em_Horns! said, it started right up and at least got the truck into my garage. In the morning I will do the filter and see how it goes.

Just for curiosity reasons, when the fuel filter life gives you a read out, what dictates the percentage it tells you? Like I said, mine says 92%. I am curious if it goes off of mileage or engine hours or something, or if it is giving me that reading based off of fuel flow restriction?

Reason I ask is I am curious if the dealership I bought this from a couple months ago, actually did a fuel filter swap. Because it was reading 100% when I pulled out of the lot. Regardless, I am doing a new filter tomorrow, and when the ACDelco 3018 filter shows up next week, I will swap that in for the O'Reilly filter.
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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 02:26 AM
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I don't think your problem is with the filter.

When you start to have issues with a potentially leaking fuel filter head, that extra crank or two to start after sitting, goes unnoticed. The air post filter is passed thru and enough fuel is there to start.

As it decays, under higher demand, the aerated fuel becomes apparent (as you passed on WOT). This scenario can go on for days or weeks until it sits long enough and bleeds off and you have a no start.

Extreme hot/cold temperature swings in the weather can also have an affect on the aging seals that were marginal. The 1st seal point to fail is usually in the primer button. It can also stem from a crack in the body or other seal areas.

Rarer still, it can be farther back in the supply line; like the quick connect seal on the driver's side top where the supply line from the tank transitions from the flex line to the hard line that runs across the engine towards the filter head.

It can also be the other quick connect line at the truck rear where again, the hard line on the frame rail transitions to the flex line at the fuel module head on top of the tank.

I would start by removing the fuel line at the filter head inlet (arrow on top of the casting), and finger over the tube, try the primer button and see if the suction is there and if the button holds firm or bleeds off.

That can rule out everything from the head back to the tank as a potential vacuum leak source, centering on the filter head itself.

Being that it will be Sunday (and no new filter head is available), most parts stores carry a Dorman rebuild kit where you could get it back going again.

Or, it's possible to limp along by 1st pushing that prime button until firm and then start in the mornings.

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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 05:08 AM
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Put a lift pump on it and you will know where your air leak is as it will become a fuel leak. You will also never have to worry about priming again. Problem is not your filter though.

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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 06:55 AM
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Expensive band-aid.
What if the leak is in the fuel module in the tank? A LP won't expose that and you'll be chasing a ghost.

A LP is a great addition, but find the leak 1st.

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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 08:04 AM
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The CP4 has GP (Gear Pump) its cannot self prime at low RPM 300 OR less, That's why you must prime the system.

Now in urgent situations, You can used either (JD is my preferred either) to run the engine for 3-5 seconds by feathering, the GP will create 25HG this Vacuum will pull fuel form the Tank in 2 seconds and the engine should catch... Yes the myths of using either will self-destruct the motor is alive and still living, The fact that you are just using for urgent starting or problem solving is OK.
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 08:39 AM
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Ether on a common rail diesel
not either
and on an LML with known weak pistons?

Don't do this, bad advice....especially given that you didn't even try to express the CORRECT way to try and apply it. And that involves more than one person.

It won't fix the problem with loss of prime....are you gonna pull out the can every time you try to start?
Find and fix the vacuum leak. Or easier still, push the prime button 'til firm and/or while cranking.

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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 09:03 AM
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Hook'em My Name is Todd I have 4 decades of experience, I have sold 10,000s of Fuel pumps and 10,000s of injectors. rebuild modified 1000s of Pumps, Help 1000s over the years.

I have left My blood and sweat on 1000s of engines. If you believe that using either 1 or 2 Times to diagnose priming and using for urgent or emergency needs will destroy Pistons has NO merit.

Yes, if your going to drown or flood the engines Yes...

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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ineedabiggertrailer16 View Post
Thatís the way the mechanics at work do it, pump and bleed like bleeding brakes. Your way obviously works as well.
my reasoning,,filters empty,full of air,,don't want to push any air further into the fuel system than needed.
same principle of bleeding a heating zone on a furnace.

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