Random Long Crank - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
11-16 LML Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
J83
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Random Long Crank

Hello, just a quick question to see if anyone else might have a simple answer to this before i dig into the truck. I searched and didnt see much that was applicable to this specific issue.

Occasionally my truck will not start, unless you crank it for 30-40 seconds, then after that, works just fine, starts like normal, you would never notice anything outside the ordinary. This is maybe a once a month of so occurrence, which seems to me like it would exclude many of the common things like the filter head and that kind of stuff.

This issue was present before and after my delete, so i do not think that had anything to do with the issue. This morning though i started the truck with the remote start to let it warm up for a couple minutes, i heard it start and when i went outside it was off. No big deal, hopped in and cranked it but it would not start. Checked for codes with the autocal and my scanner, there were none. Cranked it for an eternity and a half and it started, ran fine and i idled it for a while to make sure it wasnt going to stall again. it ran fine, i shut if off and restarted it a couple times without issue and called it good for now.

Any ideas? my first thought would be security shutdown but there is nothing displayed on the dash to indicate that. I can also smell fuel when cranking, so i do not believe its a fuel delivery issue, and were it to be a low rail pressure issue, i would expect the issue to be a regular problem. At this point im wondering if theres maybe a faulty cam or crank position sensor or something but again, id expect that to be a more frequent issue.

2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
TCM & ECM Tuning by MotorOps
Y Bridge delete with SS up and down pipes
4" MBRP downpipe back exhaust with muffler
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 03:50 PM
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Sounds to me like the filter head my be starting to leak, or suck air. The seals could be shrinking/expanding dependent on ambient temps. Is there any signs of seeping on top/around the filter head? That would explain why you donít have any issues immediately after itís been started.


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9/26/17 80k miles with no issues...

--2015 GMC 3500 SRW/CCLB--

Engine rebuilt @ 170,000 miles due to hole in cylinder #7
First start on 5/13/16

8/29/17 REBUILD 2.0 @ 295k miles


255k miles on 4/1/17, and goin' strong...

S&B Intake, 3" MBRP downpipe, Flo-Pro 5" downpipe back exhaust/no muffler, PPEI tuned no longer, MOONSHINE tuned by Tony @ RidgeRunner, Airdog lift pump...

Monitoring via CTS2

Engine
Fingers Oval Bowl pistons @ 17.5:1 .040 over
Carrillo rods
chromoly pushrods
SoCal Girdle
ATI Super-Damper
ARP main and head studs
Keyed crank and cam
SDP CP3 coversion w/ Sportsman pump

Suspension
305/55/20 MT Baja ATZ P3s on stock 20's...
Kryptonite tie rods/centerlink

BUILD THREAD
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
J83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.A.M. View Post
Sounds to me like the filter head my be starting to leak, or suck air. The seals could be shrinking/expanding dependent on ambient temps. Is there any signs of seeping on top/around the filter head? That would explain why you donít have any issues immediately after itís been started.


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i checked this morning and the fittings around the head as well as the filter itself appear dry, but that does not rule out the possibility. the truck has 110K miles on it, it might just be worth throwing a filter head at it at this point just to see what happens.
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2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
TCM & ECM Tuning by MotorOps
Y Bridge delete with SS up and down pipes
4" MBRP downpipe back exhaust with muffler
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:20 AM
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Do you have a lift pump on your truck? They usually start leaking if you have a lift pump, since that puts positive pressure on the fuel system before the injection pump. Without a lift pump, it could start sucking air into the system before you see a visible leak since itís under vacuum in front of the injection pump. Iím pretty sure you would get a check engine light if you would have sensor issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

9/26/17 80k miles with no issues...

--2015 GMC 3500 SRW/CCLB--

Engine rebuilt @ 170,000 miles due to hole in cylinder #7
First start on 5/13/16

8/29/17 REBUILD 2.0 @ 295k miles


255k miles on 4/1/17, and goin' strong...

S&B Intake, 3" MBRP downpipe, Flo-Pro 5" downpipe back exhaust/no muffler, PPEI tuned no longer, MOONSHINE tuned by Tony @ RidgeRunner, Airdog lift pump...

Monitoring via CTS2

Engine
Fingers Oval Bowl pistons @ 17.5:1 .040 over
Carrillo rods
chromoly pushrods
SoCal Girdle
ATI Super-Damper
ARP main and head studs
Keyed crank and cam
SDP CP3 coversion w/ Sportsman pump

Suspension
305/55/20 MT Baja ATZ P3s on stock 20's...
Kryptonite tie rods/centerlink

BUILD THREAD
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
J83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.A.M. View Post
Do you have a lift pump on your truck? They usually start leaking if you have a lift pump, since that puts positive pressure on the fuel system before the injection pump. Without a lift pump, it could start sucking air into the system before you see a visible leak since itís under vacuum in front of the injection pump. Iím pretty sure you would get a check engine light if you would have sensor issues.


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I do not yet have a lift pump on this truck, ive only had it for maybe 5 months so far and its spent a hefty chunk of that time down for repairs. The lift pump is on the list as is a CP3 swap, but gotta space things out a bit. Its due for a fuel filter change anyway, so i may as well throw a filter on it for now and hope that maybe its just a bad seal on the old filter or something. The weird part is that its so intermittent, like once a month or so. I dont mind putting a new filter head on it, just wont be able to get around to doing it for a couple weeks. I suppose next time this happens i could start by bleeding and priming it instead of cranking it and see if theres fuel at the head. I would think id get a mill too if there was low rail pressure or a fuel flow issue, but my 01 was pouring diesel out the bottom of it and had no codes so who knows. Thanks for the help, i was hoping that it would be the filter head as the other option that came up in my searches was a CP4...

2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
TCM & ECM Tuning by MotorOps
Y Bridge delete with SS up and down pipes
4" MBRP downpipe back exhaust with muffler
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 10:31 AM
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Look into a filter head rebuild kit and save some $ rather than buy a new filter head assembly.

I did mine last Fall and it's not a difficult job especially if the filter is being changed at the same time anyways.

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2012 LML CCSB Deleted w/Motor Ops tuning, 5" Flo Pro w/3" DP.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
J83
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Originally Posted by SheeB View Post
Look into a filter head rebuild kit and save some $ rather than buy a new filter head assembly.

I did mine last Fall and it's not a difficult job especially if the filter is being changed at the same time anyways.
the problem is i dont really have a good place to do the rebuild, im pretty sure the wife would kill me if i did it on the kitchen counter.

Im familiar with the rebuild process and i have the tools to do it, just not the location. It looks like the rebuild kit is about 20 bucks before shipping, and all the diesel shops ive found charge criminal rates to ship to Alaska so the difference between that and the new filter head from the dealer is probably not that much all said and done, especially once you factor in the time to rebuild it, even though its not much.

To put it in perspective, i just added the 19$ merchant kit on xtremediesel, put my zip code in and the shipping options were 22$ ground or 42$ 2nd day air. Duramax store, same part, 25 2nd day air, 35 ground... i mean its a bag of rubber seals guys.... you ever heard of flat rate shipping? Id rather pay the dealer than pay for extortion lol.

2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
TCM & ECM Tuning by MotorOps
Y Bridge delete with SS up and down pipes
4" MBRP downpipe back exhaust with muffler
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 10:07 PM
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Parker has the complete filter head which includes a AC Delco 3018 filter.
I went a shop to do mine $160 plus labor, I think Amazon has the same complete filter head in the $140 range.
Took them about 30 min to R & R with a warranty and less headaches trying to rebuild it.

I think this is the correct one, you’ll have to verify it if your interested.
Parker PFF4245R2-04 Gm Filter Housing Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785L6HQT..._m3CbDb4P987TF

I think a few other companies carry this for a little less money.

Dan
2007.5 GMC Sierra 3500 SRW L.B. "BLACK" C.C. 4X4 LMM Z71
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Last edited by D_R_C; 06-15-2019 at 10:22 PM.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
J83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_R_C View Post
Parker has the complete filter head which includes a AC Delco 3018 filter.
I went a shop to do mine $160 plus labor, I think Amazon has the same complete filter head in the $140 range.
Took them about 30 min to R & R with a warranty and less headaches trying to rebuild it.

I think this is the correct one, youíll have to verify it if your interested.
Parker PFF4245R2-04 Gm Filter Housing Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785L6HQT..._m3CbDb4P987TF

I think a few other companies carry this for a little less money.
thanks, ill check it out, im thinking replacing the whole head with new is a better option than rebuilding at this point.

2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
TCM & ECM Tuning by MotorOps
Y Bridge delete with SS up and down pipes
4" MBRP downpipe back exhaust with muffler
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 12:28 PM
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The first time I had leaking filter head it would do the same thing.... excessive cranking and not every time. After I figured out that it would do it like clock work if I parked head-up into the driveway (driveway is an incline) If I backed in it would not do it. Or on my flat level RV parking on the side. ONLY if the nose was up? Rebuild solved it, then lift pump and another filter head 4 years later. As easy as it is to replace, and the reasonable cost. I figure just fit a new one every so many years.

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