Battery Replacement - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
11-16 LML Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Battery Replacement

I am thinking it is time to be proactive and replace my original batteries before I get stuck in the boonies. I have probably replaced a dozen batteries on autos, but the two batteries in the truck have me a little worried about screwing up the electronics and having bigger issues. I have tried to read as many forum posts as possible and have watched a CarcareKiosk fixit video. None show or mention what I think is a fuse distribution box near the passenger side positive cable on the battery. Does this just lift off or is it attached to the battery or cable? Also, I read somewhere the passenger side battery is tough to get out? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bruduer View Post
I am thinking it is time to be proactive and replace my original batteries before I get stuck in the boonies. I have probably replaced a dozen batteries on autos, but the two batteries in the truck have me a little worried about screwing up the electronics and having bigger issues. I have tried to read as many forum posts as possible and have watched a CarcareKiosk fixit video. None show or mention what I think is a fuse distribution box near the passenger side positive cable on the battery. Does this just lift off or is it attached to the battery or cable? Also, I read somewhere the passenger side battery is tough to get out? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
I don't know anything about the batteries in your truck, but in my 2017 it's easy to remove them. That said...

...I personally am not a fan of replacing parts -- even wear items -- preemptively or preventatively, unless the job requires a bunch of labor that I already committed myself to for another part (for instance, replacing a water pump while doing timing belts on an older car because the same labor is involved and the pump isn't expensive, but the labor is very time consuming). In the case of batteries, I would have them load tested separately and, if they're up to spec, leave them alone.

If you're looking for insurance against a battery going bad on you (or being discharged due to some other reason such as parasitic draw from a short circuit, which will put you out of business even with brand new batteries), I'd pick up a jump starter and keep it plugged into your 12V socket so it's always ready to go. This will protect you against a lot more things than just bad batteries and it can be used to help others as well.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 03:16 PM
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First unhook both negative cables. The pass. Side needs the brace removed. The fuse thing will come off easy, and while off clean the connections. Negative cables are last thing reconnected.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 03:36 PM
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I just did both a couple weeks ago and had similar question. I did the driver's side first which took about 5 minutes. The passenger side is a PITA and requires removing a brace and some other part to get to one bolt holding the brace.

Here's my link and there's a response from a member with a video: https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/g...ies-again.html

Hope it helps.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you all for the very helpful information.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 12:37 PM
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Garage
Did two Duracell 78's yesterday.. not bad, maybe 30 minutes. 800 CCA and $233 for both out the door at Sam's Club. 3 year replacement which is about what we get here in SW AZ...
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bruduer View Post
I am thinking it is time to be proactive and replace my original batteries before I get stuck in the boonies. I have probably replaced a dozen batteries on autos, but the two batteries in the truck have me a little worried about screwing up the electronics and having bigger issues. I have tried to read as many forum posts as possible and have watched a CarcareKiosk fixit video. None show or mention what I think is a fuse distribution box near the passenger side positive cable on the battery. Does this just lift off or is it attached to the battery or cable? Also, I read somewhere the passenger side battery is tough to get out? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Is this on the 2013 i your sig?

Are they original batteries?

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yes, original batteries on 2013. I live in socal desert area and quite a bit of camping, so do not want to get stuck. I will probably go down Autozone and have them do a load test first.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 04:00 PM
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When do load test make sure you separate batteries. They must be tested as one, elsewise will get incorrect read.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 04:04 PM
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I've had a Duramax since 2001 and always have had one battery go bad first and you can tell when cranking. Still starts ok but it's a warning to replace them soon. Always waited for a slow crank and never been stranded.

.
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