Redneck's LML Dually Build Thread - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
11-16 LML Performance Parts Discussion Discussion of Performance Parts For the 2011 to 2016 LML Duramax Trucks No Advertising

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post #1 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
Finally! Wheels on!
 
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Redneck's LML Dually Build Thread

Well, after some prodding by a few members I have decided to begin my build thread for my 2013 LML Dually.

This is not intended to be a my pecker is bigger than your pecker thread or a brag thread, but I collection of the things I've done to my truck based on my unique desires, needs, and whims. I do it with an eye towards folks that have an interest in learning different ways of looking at and doing things and will do my dead level best to do these in the format of DIY with pics and instructions to help those who want to know how and why I did things a certain way.

A word of caution. I typically over think and over engineer and over spend. I try for the subtle and factory appearing look wherever possible. (since I have an LB7 on a 12 inch lift with 37s for the not so subtle)

This will take a while to get up to speed since I bought the truck in June 2013 and have many mods and projects to get caught up on.

Here is how it began. My DD was a 2007 MB CLS that I bought new in 2007. At 70,000 miles on it and the month before I bought the LML, it cost me $6000 in repairs for an AC evaporator and air struts. I had enough, plus I wanted to get a 5th wheel and my LB7 was not the right truck to pull it with because it looks like this:

So, I traded this:

On this:

Drove 6 hours to Vernon Texas from Houston after cutting the deal over the phone.

And so it begins.

In keeping with some other build threads I'll try to keep this page as an index of sorts and a list of mods:

Table of Contents

Post #1
*2013 GMC K3500SLT, Victory Red and tan, heated/cooled leather, navigation, sunroof, and all options except rear sliding window and rear entertainment
* B&W Turnball and Companion 5th wheel hitch
*Rhino Liner - Didn't know the difference between low and high pressure. Wish I had known and specified high pressure.
* Ceramic Tint
* Expel clear bra on the front and the rear fenders
* Raptor 6 inch oval wheel to wheel steps.
* Weather Tech floor liners
* Replace mud flaps with diamond plate aluminum

Post #7
Replaced all the shocks with Bilstein 5100, including adding a 5100 steering stabilizer
Denali Radio wood grain bezel

Post #9
Nicktane 1micron microglass filter and filterhead with fender well door

Post #22
60Gal RDS tool box tank combo

Post #29
De-badged - not de molded

Post #30
Phillps HID 6000K low beams

Post #31
Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass and amsoil oil change

Post #33
Rear ended and color matched mirrors and bumper

Post #40
Crushed the new tailgate...remove replace

Post #41
Fleabay 6000k HID fogs

Post 45
Physical mounting of the on board air components
* Viair dual 440C compressors/ 5gal tank
* Wolo train horns
* Firestone Rideright airbags with custom fabricated valving

Post 57
Pondering the CTS mount location

Post #75
LB7 Sob Story

Post #82 and #83
Wiring system for the air system, air bags, horn switch, compressor switch, trailer TPMS

Post #87
First interior LEDs (fail) and dually fender marker lights

Post #94
Transynd flush and fill

Post #103
AD165

Post #113
Custom CTS Mount

Post #114

Glock Holster

Post #132
EAS wiring for Pressure and temperature gauge

Post #137
EAS EGT Pyro installation

Post #155
Rear Diff Cover fabrication and installation of the temp probe

Post #177,19,200,210,249
Parts coming in for the delete party!

Post #307,313,314,315,316,319,322

Delete party!

Post #347

First Oil Analyis results with Amsoil extended drain interval

Post# 439
New steel valve stems and 7 tire rotation

Post #475
New wheel well tool box

Post #497
New antenna for the TST trailer TPMS


Bought it with the Rhino Liner and B&W turnball and companion installed.

Glad I opted out of the GM steps as I went with the Raptor 6 inch oval wheel to wheel, which I love because it helps me get into the toolbox and unhook the 5th wheel. Drove the back roads for 500 miles to break in the rear end on my way to Memphis from Vernon, straight from picking it up at the dealer. Had to pick up the family from an extended visit to the in-laws. So I ended the first week with 1200 miles.

First stop was my parking garage at the office to prove the guys at the office wrong, that it would actually fit. Of course I had to bribe the building manager with a bottle of Jack to raise the entrance pipe about an inch to keep it from hitting the roof.


The next week I took it to the shop to have Xpel clear bra put on the hood, front fenders and bumper cover as well as a custom patterned full rear fender piece for the hips.

No other mods before it was off to Ohio to pick up the new 5th wheel. Stopped for a ROTM photo.

and then picked this up

Installed the steps

The replaced the dealer advertisement on the mud flaps

a few pop rivets and some diamond plate

Then added the Weather Tech liners

The Bus
Looking for OBS interior parts: Graphite color code. (1999-2004 IIRC) Door panels for sure, but let me know what you have

RedNeck Dually Build Thread
Dually Club Member #191
Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERWATCH_09 View Post
The perfect storm of incompetence....Nothing more dangerous than a redneck with money.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goose2448 View Post
It's really complicated sounding, but it's easier than giving a fat girl a bucket of ice cream.

Last edited by TexasRedNeck; 08-19-2014 at 04:54 PM.
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post #2 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 06:56 PM
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Its about time!!!!

Tyler

2015.5 Chevy 3500HD High Country CC/LWB 4x4 DRW __Edge Insight CTS2, B&W turnover ball, factory nerfs, RDS 60gal fuel tank/toolbox combo,






Quote:
Originally Posted by JOKER View Post
You can never have too much tire, only too much fender.

Last edited by silver_lml; 03-10-2014 at 07:10 PM.
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post #3 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 07:16 PM
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post #4 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 07:39 PM
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2008 GMC 3500HD CC LB DRW 4x4~Westin Step Bars, WeatherTech Floor Liners, Antenna "Delete", Plasti Dipped Grill and Emblems and Rims, Leveled, Funky Gear Rims, Nictane Adapter with Donaldson and Clear Bowl, 3" Magna Flow Down Pipe, 5" Diamond Eye Exhaust Dumped, EFI By Kory, Crobra 29LTD WX/BT/NW CB, Dual 4' Firesticks, Recon Roof Lights, Reese Pro Series 15K 5th Wheel Hitch

1985 Chevy C20 RCLB 350 4 Bolt, 4 Barrel Carb, 4.10 Gears, 8600 GVW, Glass Packs Dumped, Pig Skin Leather, Bed Mounted 5th Wheel, Dual 20 gal Tanks, 62,146 Miles, Indian Bronze and Cream~Rolled

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post #5 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 07:54 PM
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In on this.

What part of Ohio you go to?

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2008 CCLB LMM
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2003 RCLB LB7 stock but not for long
The life of my truck
Pics of my truck
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post #6 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
Finally! Wheels on!
 
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Then came the Bilstein 5100's all around including adding the steering stabilizer. Did it at night with a flashlight and an impact. Took about 20 minutes total. Did get pictures of the old ones in the floor. They'll be going to JDub for his project.


Although I liked the Denali, finding a victory red one was nearly impossible and even though I like the lower grill I wanted to have a little chrome on the front. However I did not like the lack of the one wood grain piece around the radio. I'm digging for those pictures.
Replaced this:

with this:

using this:

Ordered the GM Part off ebay. Got a pretty good deal. Don't overlook ebay for OEM parts. Often dealers give discounts and sell on ebay.
The cheap set of molding pry tools are a must. The bezel has three clips down each side. I started at the top right and worked my way down. Don't get rambunctious and you won't break it. I've seem some others install switches along each side but larger switches required some back trimming. Again, I wanted to keep it low key and factory-ish so switches there weren't an option for me.

Next we get into some better mods and better pictures; Up next, the Nicktane filter, adapter, and filter door.

The Bus
Looking for OBS interior parts: Graphite color code. (1999-2004 IIRC) Door panels for sure, but let me know what you have

RedNeck Dually Build Thread
Dually Club Member #191
Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERWATCH_09 View Post
The perfect storm of incompetence....Nothing more dangerous than a redneck with money.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goose2448 View Post
It's really complicated sounding, but it's easier than giving a fat girl a bucket of ice cream.

Last edited by TexasRedNeck; 03-10-2014 at 08:27 PM.
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post #7 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
Finally! Wheels on!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzjk913 View Post
In on this.

What part of Ohio you go to?
Hamilton, OH to Jeff Couch's RV Nation. Saved 10k

View of the river from my hotel. Had a steak at the Precinct on the way through Cinci.


The Bus
Looking for OBS interior parts: Graphite color code. (1999-2004 IIRC) Door panels for sure, but let me know what you have

RedNeck Dually Build Thread
Dually Club Member #191
Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERWATCH_09 View Post
The perfect storm of incompetence....Nothing more dangerous than a redneck with money.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goose2448 View Post
It's really complicated sounding, but it's easier than giving a fat girl a bucket of ice cream.
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post #8 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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My experience with the Nicktane on the LML was a slightly different experience so I thought I would do a write up.

2013 GMC Crew Cab Dually with 7,418 miles. It is used to pull my 42 ft fifth wheel and remain mostly stock since it is under warranty. (e.g. no ECU programming, DPF delete, etc)



After experiencing injector failures on other diesels in the past, and researching and reading articles about the quality of diesel filtration and contamination and the effects on high pressure diesel injector systems, I felt the need for better filtration and chose the Nicktane adapter and the Nicktane Microglass 1 micron filter. (later I will add the axillary filter kit)

To facilitate maintenance, I decided to remove the inner fender and install the access door from MadJack Diesel. I highly recommend using the clip tool/pliers they sell. I bought them a while back and love them.

Off comes the passenger wheel and inner fender.





Carefully unplug the WIF sensor. I will not be using it with the new filter.



Open the WIF Drain - nothing but fuel. Good sign after 1800 mile road trip



I've read the stock filter is 60% efficient at 7 microns, but perhaps the new Delco is better? Don't know and a little late now. The Nicktane Microglass is 1 micron and pure synthetic media.



Not that I will ever need this in South Texas, but intersting to note they zip tie the block heater cord (made in China) to the AC plumbing on the passenger side.



Top side : this is why I want the filter access door in the inner fender. Not much room to navigate. Off comes the air intake elbow to gain access.



Two 5/16 hose clamps, one on each end. Note the black bracket that runs from the filter housing bracket to the throttle body and holds the dipstick. This has to come off to facilitate getting the longer bolts into the bracket that holds the fuel filter housing.



I used 1/2 inch open end wrench to remove the two bolts holding the filter housing onto the bracket attached to the head. There is a pipe that feeds water to the heater that is bolted to the top of the filter housing, remove that bolt during this process too. The fuel filter housing will need to be spaced out about 1/2 inch to accept the aftermarket filter or it hits the bracket at the bottom. Here is where it got a little interesting for me.

I bought the spacer kit but the bolts that came with it are too short for the LML. Apparently the LML has a thicker boss on the bracket that hold the filter housing. I have hear that some just add washers to space it out, but the engineers had a certain amount of threads engaged in the filter housing body for a reason, right? I buy 8x1.125x60 mm bolts because that's all NAPA had. As it turns out even when I remove the interfering bolts and bracket as shown later, the 60's won't fit, went to Lowe's and bought 50mm metric bolts to increase the length and account for the spacer. Multiple trips to the store really increases the install time.



These were 60 mm so I was going to use them with washers on the back. No dice. As it turns out, the bracket that holds the filter housing has bolts that interfere with the longer bolts when you try to insert them into the holes from the back. Nothing is ever easy right?



You can see here that I have removed the bracket that stabilizes the throttle body (2 bolts at the top and bottom included the two interfering bolts of the bracket that holds the filter housing). Those bolts also secure the bottom of a bracket that stabilizes the throttle body housing and oil dip stick. I had to remove the top two bolts on the bracket where it meets the throttle body housing to remove the bracket and give my self room to insert the 50mm bolts.



Drop the spacer in from the top. Note the hose clamp on the outlet hose close to the heater hose pipe - I rotated this to not have the ears rub the heater hose pipe.

Since I won't be using the WIF I cut a piece of closed cell foam to fit in the connector, coated the inside of the connector with dielectric grease and then inserted the foam and taped with electrical tape to preserve the contacts in case I want to return to stock later.

The use a T-20 screwdriver to remove the check ball holder from the bottom side of the filter housing and remove the ball and spring. Replace and tighten the holder sans spring and ball.

Install the Nicktane adapter. I used a rubber strap wrench to make sure it was tight. Lube the O rings a bit. Install the Microglass filter. I wrote the date and mileage on it. Remove the bleeder screw, slowly depress the primer bulb until fuel comes out without bubbles, install the bleeder screw.



Now on to the access door install. I assumed the LMM and LML fender liners would be the same but either they are not or I installed it oriented the wrong way. Either way, when I lined it up part of it over hung a stepped down contour of the inner fender so I trimmed it with tin snips








I scribed the trimmed panel outline on the inner fender. Then deducted about an inch around the perimeter for mounting (and to preserve one of the fasteners that hold the flexible water shield near the A Arm) and cut out the opening with tin snips.






Since the part I cut off included some mounting holes I drilled equally spaced holes and also drilled the inner liner where the other holes were. I suggest inserting the fasteners as you go to eliminate the shifting of the panel and misalignment of holes. So here is the end product for access next time.



So in the end, I got where I wanted to go, but since no one advised me that the bolts supplied with the spacer kit were too short and that longer bolts to provide the same thread engagement in the housing would require the removal of the bracket stabilizing the throttle body housing, it was a bit of a goat rope for a little while. In the end it turned out fine.

Sorry for the bad pics. They looked fine on the display of the little digital camera outdoors while I was doing it. I'm not undoing it all to redo the pics.......

I hope this helps someone and if I omitted any information or someone has better ideas or experience, feel free to comment. You won't hurt my feelings.

Next was to install the RDS 60 gallon Tool box auxiliary tank combo. Sure helps towing the Redneck Hotel at 10mpg. I made it from Ruidoso to Houston without filling up.

The Bus
Looking for OBS interior parts: Graphite color code. (1999-2004 IIRC) Door panels for sure, but let me know what you have

RedNeck Dually Build Thread
Dually Club Member #191
Quote:
Originally Posted by OVERWATCH_09 View Post
The perfect storm of incompetence....Nothing more dangerous than a redneck with money.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goose2448 View Post
It's really complicated sounding, but it's easier than giving a fat girl a bucket of ice cream.

Last edited by TexasRedNeck; 03-10-2014 at 08:41 PM.
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post #9 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 08:57 PM
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Good job Tex!


sorry to interrupt...continue.

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post #10 of 1025 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 04:53 AM
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On the access door, i trimmed that bottom piece a little wider than the door and it gives you alot more room.


I put two of the clips they gave me between the door and the lil piece and just leave them in when i remove it. Oh and BTW...they are diff. I ordered two, one for me and one for a buddy and the LML GMC and Chevy were diff!

Tyler

2015.5 Chevy 3500HD High Country CC/LWB 4x4 DRW __Edge Insight CTS2, B&W turnover ball, factory nerfs, RDS 60gal fuel tank/toolbox combo,






Quote:
Originally Posted by JOKER View Post
You can never have too much tire, only too much fender.
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