AirDog 165 Mystery - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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AirDog 165 Mystery

Hey Duramax Forum world,

Something funky just happened to me when I replaced the filters on my AirDog 165. Got the old filters off, then put the new filters on. Prior to firing I filled the water separator filter with fresh (not re-used) diesel and tightened appropriately. Then left the filter side dry,(other than the oil around the gasket,) threaded it up and then backed it off as I have done previously to prime the air out. Usually the filter fills up and the fuel starts to spill and I finish tightening it up and I am all done. However this time, the pump did not fill up the filter side. Nothing nada!!!! The pump is buzzing like it always has like it's running but I got nothing.

So I decided to do go ahead, pull the filter all the way out, fill it up with the previously mentioned fresh diesel and tightened it up. After a bit of cranking it finally fired, ran for a minute then shut off. So I popped the hood and opened up the bleeder valve and pumped out some air that was in there. A bit of cranking later it fired and stayed running.

There is my story, but why did it do that in the first place? I called Air Dog directly and they had my check the rubber o-rings and a few other things that checked out fine, but why didn't the pump pull the fuel from the tank? My theory is the AirDog motor is dying and unless both filters are full of fuel the CP4 isn't strong enough to pull it through the system. Does that hold any water? Do I just suck?

Any input is appreciated even if it points out how stupid I am.

Thanks,
JP

2012 GMC 3500HD Denali CCLB DRW to SRW conversion!! Cognito 7-9" Lift de-cranked to 6", Cognito UCA's, CST Dual Shock kit Front, Fox Performance Reservoir shocks all four corners. American Force Justice 22X10 with Nitto Trail Grappler LT325/55R22. Sulastic Rear Shackles, MagHytec Rear Differential Cover. Curt Turnover Ball, Recon Smoked Cab LED Lights. BD Throttle Booster, AirDogII 165. What else? It's a fully loaded DenaliHD, no need to add!! I kid, there's always something to add. Full delete to come!!
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 07:14 PM
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Probably just had more air in the system than you thought trapped in the filter head or lined leading to it. I've had that happen on mine and others before. Had to prime at the filter head and then let the pump run while priming the filter head until fuel came out then it started. Throw a gauge on the lp or on the schrader valve and see what it's doing if you're worried about the pump failing.

My name is Nic
2012 qcsb 6.8L cummins, 48re swapped, ratchet shifter with pcs vb
2011 GMC Sierra 2500 CCSB LML,
Lil ole single s400, fuel,
supporting mods,
rancher tuned,
Various parts from SDP, WCFAB, LDS, DHD, FREEDOM RACING ENGINES GDP, EXERGY, ATS.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks. That helps settle my worries a bit. About to hook up the 5th wheel trailer and head to the Oregon coast on a week long road trip. Just trying to settle my active imagination.Thanks again!

2012 GMC 3500HD Denali CCLB DRW to SRW conversion!! Cognito 7-9" Lift de-cranked to 6", Cognito UCA's, CST Dual Shock kit Front, Fox Performance Reservoir shocks all four corners. American Force Justice 22X10 with Nitto Trail Grappler LT325/55R22. Sulastic Rear Shackles, MagHytec Rear Differential Cover. Curt Turnover Ball, Recon Smoked Cab LED Lights. BD Throttle Booster, AirDogII 165. What else? It's a fully loaded DenaliHD, no need to add!! I kid, there's always something to add. Full delete to come!!
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:12 PM
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Well I'm sure you will but make sure you drive it around a few times before you take off lol. Also the airdog is a pull theough design so if it fails you will be able to still continue driving.

My name is Nic
2012 qcsb 6.8L cummins, 48re swapped, ratchet shifter with pcs vb
2011 GMC Sierra 2500 CCSB LML,
Lil ole single s400, fuel,
supporting mods,
rancher tuned,
Various parts from SDP, WCFAB, LDS, DHD, FREEDOM RACING ENGINES GDP, EXERGY, ATS.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:35 PM
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I've always been under the impression that you are not supposed to fill the water separator up when replacing the filters even tho it is not "re-used" diesel fuel cause it could still have contaminants in it that's going straight to the pump or is it just a personal preference? Not trying to hijack the thread, but just want to make sure for when i go to replace in the future.

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Reverse level with Mcgaughy's 2" drop shackle
Bilstein 5100 all-around
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Wehrli S300 kit w/ 66mm SXE
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:43 PM
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I never fill fuel filters. Its person preference but filling them even with fresh fuel out the pump isnt a good practice imo for the reason you said. Even being you still have another filter on the block that would catch everything. Which I dont. Theyll prime without diesel. Tighten the w/s and leave the ff loose until fuel comes out then tighten up.

My name is Nic
2012 qcsb 6.8L cummins, 48re swapped, ratchet shifter with pcs vb
2011 GMC Sierra 2500 CCSB LML,
Lil ole single s400, fuel,
supporting mods,
rancher tuned,
Various parts from SDP, WCFAB, LDS, DHD, FREEDOM RACING ENGINES GDP, EXERGY, ATS.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 10:58 PM
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I’ve tried pretty much every way you can think of when changing the LP filters.
IMO what you should have done was 1st open the bleeder screw, then try your way of cracking open the fuel filter then run the LP until fuel starts coming out.
Go up to the bleeder screw, run your LP when fuel starts coming out close the bleeder screw.
You could also run the LP for a while without starting the engine, and without opening the bleeder screw. air should return back to the tank.
This takes several minutes.

What I do is get my fuel down below 1/3 tank, drive the front on blocks, loosen the fuel cap, this way I don’t have any fuel running out other than what’s in the filters.
Change both filters filling with fresh fuel, I still have the stock fuel filter, cycle the LP on and off several times observing the LP’s return flow, after several cycles you’ll notice less air bubbles.
Usually I won’t have to loosen the bleed screw, but if needed or feel in the mood, I’ll turn on the LP, crack open the bleed screw until no more air.
Then start your engines

The cp4 should not even be considered a problem changing filters without the engine running it doesn’t play a role.
The LP should be the only motor running when trying to fill the filters and bleed air out of the fuel system.

Dan
2007.5 GMC Sierra 3500 SRW L.B. "BLACK" C.C. 4X4 LMM Z71
DIY stock airbox mod, aFe ProGuard 7, OEM drop-in
EFILive ECM ATP - Heavy Tow Tune with Turbo Brake.
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Last edited by D_R_C; 07-15-2019 at 11:03 PM.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 12:05 AM
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I see what your saying and their are multiple ways to change the filters based off of preference, but for some people that run a lift pump they remove the filter under the hood because the micron rating of the lift pump is greater than whats factory under the hood so its somewhat pointless to have the one under the hood. If you have removed the filter under the hood and fill the water separator up and turn the key where only the lift pump comes on that fuel is going to be pushed to the motor which in time when you go to actually crank the truck will be going through the CP4 at some point. I agree if you have the filter under the hood there really isn't a big concern especially if you have the CAT filter adapter that filters the same as the lift pump filters but for those who have no filter under the hood i think the safest thing to do is to not add any fuel to the filter when changing them. Just my .02 cents but to each is their own.

2016 LML Denali 2500
Reverse level with Mcgaughy's 2" drop shackle
Bilstein 5100 all-around
22x10 American Force Flux black w machined
Wehrli S300 kit w/ 66mm SXE
Wehrli CP3 conversion Race series with 10mm stroker
Profab Manifold & Up-pipes
Stock Trans For Now
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Air Dog 165 4G
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denarli6.6 View Post
I see what your saying and their are multiple ways to change the filters based off of preference, but for some people that run a lift pump they remove the filter under the hood because the micron rating of the lift pump is greater than whats factory under the hood so its somewhat pointless to have the one under the hood. If you have removed the filter under the hood and fill the water separator up and turn the key where only the lift pump comes on that fuel is going to be pushed to the motor which in time when you go to actually crank the truck will be going through the CP4 at some point. I agree if you have the filter under the hood there really isn't a big concern especially if you have the CAT filter adapter that filters the same as the lift pump filters but for those who have no filter under the hood i think the safest thing to do is to not add any fuel to the filter when changing them. Just my .02 cents but to each is their own.
This is true. But the cat filter doesnt have a w/s built in so if you did fill them and have water in the fuel the cat filter is doing nothing. Definitely agree adding fuel to the filters isn't the safest idea.

My name is Nic
2012 qcsb 6.8L cummins, 48re swapped, ratchet shifter with pcs vb
2011 GMC Sierra 2500 CCSB LML,
Lil ole single s400, fuel,
supporting mods,
rancher tuned,
Various parts from SDP, WCFAB, LDS, DHD, FREEDOM RACING ENGINES GDP, EXERGY, ATS.
SilverGorillaLML is online now  
post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 07:15 AM
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Actually you have the micron rating backwards.
Liftpump filters advertise something like 2 micron when the actual true micron is anywhere from 5-10, this you can do a serious search to find true.
The Racor fuel filter for the stock location is a true 4 micron rating.

Fleet Guard for the AD claims 2 micron when the actual is 5 micron.
Baldwin for the AD is a true 10 micron, this you can also call Baldwin on this.
Fleet Guard WS filter for AD is about 40 micron.
Baldwin WS for AD is 20 micron.
Your Cat filter , I wouldn’t even run a cat filter not having that last bit of protection with a W/S built-in.
The same with AD filters and FASS filters.
Baldwin supplies the filters for AD, FASS I don't know who supplies filters for them.

In the end the filter at the engine has a better true micron rating, than any of the LP filters offer.
eli_harper13 likes this.

Dan
2007.5 GMC Sierra 3500 SRW L.B. "BLACK" C.C. 4X4 LMM Z71
DIY stock airbox mod, aFe ProGuard 7, OEM drop-in
EFILive ECM ATP - Heavy Tow Tune with Turbo Brake.
EFILive TCM Duramax Tuner
DHD Cold Side High Flow Intake Pipe
DHD PCV Re-Route
AirDog 4G100


2007 Yukon Denail "BLACK" 6.2 gasser
DIY stock AirBox Mod, K&N, Airaid intake, EFILive TCM only tuning

Last edited by D_R_C; 07-16-2019 at 07:17 AM.
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