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Honeymoon is over.................

48K views 324 replies 33 participants last post by  signman 
#1 · (Edited)
In this thread https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/general-discussion/980178-wow.html I was praising my new-to-me Duramax Silverado.

In another post in my history somewhere, I also mentioned where the only vehicle to ever leave my family and I stranded, was a GM...well, it happened again.

Two weeks ago, we towed our trailer through the Canyon, without a hiccup. On the Sunday of that weekend, we towed it further because we would be visiting some friends of ours the following weekend (this weekend just past). We dropped the trailer at their property and went home; it was after that ride home that I extolled the beauty and power of my new truck.

On Friday, June 1st we left home just after 5:00 pm. There were four of us in the truck...no trailer...and maybe 200 # of food, clothing and gear in the back. We were doing just fine along the lower stretches...about 65 or 70 mph with the Cruise Control engaged and I meant to place it into Tow/Haul mode before getting to the snowshed, but forgot.
When we hit the snowshed, the Engine light came on and she started to push a lot of black smoke. I made it to the exit a few miles further along and checked under the hood for anything obvious but couldn't find anything obvious.
I looked through the glovebox manual and it said that if the light is on steady, it is an EMISSION CONTROL issue, so seeing nothing obvious, I figured it might be the EGR valve got stuck or something along those lines....anything to do with EMISSIONS shouldn't be a big deal.
We carried on...every time I would exceed 1800 RPM, she would push black smoke, so I stayed light on the foot.

When we arrived to our destination, our friend had his code-reader with him (I forgot mine at home....along with ALL my tools!!!) and we discovered a P0299 Turbocharger underboost condition. We cleared the code, thinking it might "reset" whatever set it off in the first place, but when we drove to town the following day, she still smoked if I exceeded 1800 RPM under load (going uphill).

When it came time to leave today, we hooked the trailer back up and started on our return journey home. We got 2 miles from their place when the ENGINE light came on again, and I assumed it was the same issue.
I took it VERY easily along the highway, doing my best to be as gentle as possible...but she still smoked like a locomotive whenever any pedal is applied. We got past the turnoff and started climbing another hill. As the engine speed dropped I put a bit more foot into it to get her to downshift and she just died.
I couldn't get over 2000 RPM out of her and as many MPH's as that engine speed will give. I assumed she had gone into Limp mode but there was no indication anywhere that this had happened.
We came to a stop at a trucker's brake check, and called BCAA to get us a tow truck....for the truck, our RV and 4 adults.....we waited about 3 hours before the truck arrived and he drove us all the way home, with all of our gear and stuff.
When home, I connected my Reader and discovered that along with the P0299 underboost condition....I now also have a P0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low bank 1 alarm as well.

So....how much/what am I looking at to repair all of this....will this happen every time we encounter a hill....and more importantly, should I cancel the sale of my Powerstroke?
Sorry for that last one....but surely you can imagine how pi$$ed I am, forsaking a vehicle that was rock-steady and reliable, for this one that $hit the bed the second time I used it.
 
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#2 ·
Well it's 11 years old, and now you know why they sold it. Could be a simple thing like a dirty fuel filter, or more expensive like a fuel pump. How many miles on the truck? Some people never do any maintenance until there's a failure. Maybe the previous owner was one of those . Good luck Dave-R
 
#6 ·
I think eddie hit it on the head^


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5” straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
 
#5 ·
Sounds like a big boost leak to me which is usually a cheap fix just sometimes time consuming to find. Start with something easy like fuel filter like what was already said. After that if you have no luck check for collapsed fuel lines and boost leaks. My bet is on a boost leak rather than fuel issue because theres no way enough fuel can be delivered in order for it to smoke like it is if the fuel is restricted by anything. Smoke=alot of fuel and not enough air


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5” straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
 
#7 ·
But if I "popped the FPRV"....wouldn't there have been a visible fuel leak somewhere?
As I mentioned, I owned a 97 Powerstroke for 6 years and am still not 100% certain of all the intricacies of that model....I just bought this one, so my knowledge of it is even less.

As for the maintenance schedule of the PO...he assured me (and he doesn't seem like the type that would lie about it...he was a senior who suffered a stroke and could no longer drive) that it was well maintained by an ex-GM mechanic....but anything is possible, I guess.

The fuel filter shows as 91% life left in it. The first thing I did (after buying it) was change the oil and filter and have the transmission serviced. I also had the serpentine belt and left front wheel bearing replaced.
 
#9 ·
I'd guess for sure a boost leak of some sort given your P0299 code and the fact you were blowing black smoke as your turbo was trying to light. A boost leak generally isn't a big deal, could be something simple like an intercooler clamp coming a bit loose.

The more problematic issue is a P0087 code on LBZ is usually one of three things: FPRV, injectors, or the CP3 pump. Essentially pray that it's the FPRV, and then to a lesser extent, the CP3. I was quoted about $2800 to replace the CP3 here in Canada, and a whole set of injectors for my LBZ was something like $7500 since apparently recently the price of 'em has increased to like $600 per here in Canada. Be interesting to find out if that code is related to your boost issue.

Best of luck and hopefully it's nothing serious, and ideally you have budgeted for potential repairs. End reality is it's a used 11 year old diesel truck, things absolutely can and may go wrong with it. Sure an old retired guy owned it, but maybe what he neglected to tell you was that his 20 year old hotshot grandson has been the primary driver of it the last few years. Lol.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Yes, it should. This could mean you have collapsing rubber fuel lines.

It is a known issue and the fix is relatively easy, replacing the rubber on the lines with new rubber fuel hose. (use the blue hose). Read post #8 on this thread:

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/06-07-lbz-lly-duramax-powertrain/96351-low-fuel-rail-pressure.html

Adding a Lift Pump will also solve this issue by pressurizing the fuel lines and keeping them from collapsing. Ideal solution, Do both, replace rubber, add LP.

This would not be causing the smoking issue though, that is caused by an excess of fuel in the Fuel/air mixture.

You have two issues going on at one time I think. The members above gave you tood advice/instructions regarding the one issue.

PS, I wouldn't give up on this truck if I were you. When you get these minor issues solved you will LOVE it.
 
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#17 ·
The one time a had a boost leak, what happened to me is this pipe (EGR) in the dead center of the picture fell out of the close side of the turbo. I pressurized the system but didn’t find the leak because the leak was on the other end of the “turbo airflow”. Because to pressurize the system you have to use the drivers side pipe that normally is tightened to the turbo:



-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5” straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
 
#19 ·
Start at the air box, the side that reaches the turbo first in the inlet pipe and it should go into the center of the turbo. The snell shaped metal thing is the compressor housing, and sitting at the top on the drive side is the compressor outlet. Push pull and tug on the silver or grey metal hose coming out of the outlet, carefully inspect the rubber boot fro damage while tugging. If it does not pull off, using you hands (with leather gloves on) follow the metal pipe (AKA Hot side pipe) down the driver side of the engine paying close attention to anywhere there is a shiny spot as they have been known to rub through. Once you find the other end of the hot side pipe, again push pull and tug on it, feel your way around the rubber boot while tugging (is possible) looking for any holes. You have now reached the FAMOUS Charged Air Cooler (AKA intercooler). The inlet and outlet are almost symmetrical. The inlet is on the driver side (bottom where you found the second rubber boot off the compressor outlet). Move over to the passenger side and look for a LARGE BLACK HARD PLASTIC pipe. This is the CAC outlet. These have been know to blow out of the connector. Again push pull and tug on it. Follow it up from the CAC to the top of the engine where the pipe fro the air cleaner goes toward the turbo. Check the plastic to metal connection. Follow the metal connector around to the front of the turbo where it Y's and goes into the heads.

I know it sounds like a school lesson, but if you have ZERO (0) knowledge of the system this should be a good start and hopefully informative for future reference. Hopefully you find something simple in the piping.
 
#20 ·
SO much knowledge being presented here....I am overwhelmed.

I called my local repair shop and spoke directly to the GM-trained mechanic, telling him the whole story. After an hour or so of fiddling, he called me at home to tell me that the "intercooler pipe" on the passenger side had broken at the seal - lending some credence to the observation that this had happened shortly after the pothole incident.
He is ordering a new style directly from GM, that supersedes the existing part.....apparently, these are known to get brittle after a few years.

He will also be checking my fuel lines, pump and filter for problems....things are looking up.
 
#23 ·
Congratulations, let us know how it works out.
 
#27 ·
He said the fuel lines were good...



But what's this I keep hearing about the FPRV...is it a one-time thing that needs to be replaced?


Yes


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5” straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
 
#30 ·
OK....good to know.
On the way home, I stood on it pretty hard a few times and she was as responsive as she ever was....so I'm going to assume that it didn't pop. I'll know for sure on Saturday....that's when we are planning on leaving with the trailer again.

The guy that was supposed to buy my Powerstroke backed out of the deal at the last minute, so at least I have a "backup" vehicle, if something goes wrong.
 
#32 ·
More than likely you were already starting to have issues with the cold side pipe before the POP. Fueling issues and boost issues can be difficult to determine which came first.
 
#34 ·
Maybe it was the way he explained it to me...I understood him to say that it cracked, but when he showed me the pipe, it wasn't "cracked" at all.
What happened was that there is normally a retaining ring/clip in the pipe that snaps into place in the receiver....this retainer/clip was missing; it is just sheer luck that this didn't present itself on our first trip.

I didn't know about this "bottle test" or FPRV thing before I brought it in, or I would have suggested it...but being a GM-trained mechanic, I assume that he would have checked these points.
I guess I'll find out on Saturday....we're headed past that snowshed again!

*
 
#35 ·
It 'clicks' into place, sealing with O-rings in the bent plastic coupler ends.
The bent wire clip (seen below, at the edges) seats on the metal ridge of the pipe. They don't usually come off, unless they were installed incorrectly at a previous time (common), and your increased boost pressure towing/climbing finally was enough to blow it loose.

Of course, all of the items in that cold side pipe assembly (wire clips, plastic couplers on each end with a hose clamped silicone boot in between) are sold as a unit, not individually, with the exception of those two O-rings.
So if you lose the wire clip, you have to buy the whole new assembly. :frown2:





No boost was your biggest issue.
It'll take more troubleshooting on the P0087, so note what was mentioned above.
 
#45 ·
#38 ·
So....I went out to my truck this afternoon and checked around under the hood...I can't believe that the underboost problem was literally right under my nose!
I guess that's what happens when you're in unfamiliar territory.

Possible bad news: I am able to pump the primer all the time....not just 3 or 4...I can go non-stop. Something tells me this shouldn't be.

I've ordered a filter-head rebuild kit https://www.amazon.ca/Lelecar-Rebui...8-15-spons&keywords=duramax+filter+head&psc=1 and a new FPRV https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MU2W44Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1...and it looks like I'll be taking the Ford on this next trip. GrrRRrr
 
#39 · (Edited)
That's Not a FPRV. It's no valve at all.
It's just a solid rail plug.

I'd do the simple bottle test 1st, see if you have a problem.
I found the Bosch label FPRV over in Europe for less than $100 to my door.
But verify you have a problem with it, as some have reported problems with leak-by, even with a plug.

Did you hold your thumb over the inlet, see if it creates/holds vacuum 1st?
Normal operation of the primer button, it should pump up and stay firm.

If you're going to rebuild the filter head, consider also replacing the two old hoses to/fro it, using bulk bio compatible 1/2" fuel line. Aeroquip FC332-08 is good.
Adds some blue bling under the hood too. marx
 
#40 ·
That's Not a FPRV. It's no valve at all.
It's just a solid rail plug.
Looks like I need to work on my reading comprehension as well.............

Did you hold your thumb over the inlet, see if it creates/holds vacuum 1st?
Normal operation of the primer button, it should pump up and stay firm.
I did this with the pump still on the truck, still full of fuel...I don't think I should be able to pump it, right?
 
#41 ·
Didn't you mention you're pumping it now and it won't get firm?
Removing the inlet hose from the tube (flow arrow on top) and holding your thumb over it while pressing the primer, rules out a hose leak as the issue. If you can't feel it draw suction on the tube while pushing the primer button, the leak is in the head.

And out of the serviceable seals, usually it's the two for the primer button and/or the fuel heater wires (red/black). Many times the refresh kit works.
Sometimes not.
 
#42 ·
If the bottle test is positive, the rail plug is good for testing, see if your fuel limp goes away.
You'll have to decide on if the lack of pressure relief is a thing or not, by leaving it in. There are debates.

It's not an easy task to install it, so testing 1st if better.
The real deal is $400-ish ...or cheaper as mentioned
So you can see why the $15 plug is popular.

GM Part Number: 97371618

BOSCH 1 110 010 013 8973716180
 
#43 ·
Strangest damn thing....now, it will pump up and stay firm. I am unable to remove the fuel line now, because I have to head back to work...and we are packing tomorrow; bad time for fiddling with vehicles.
When the engine is running...I can pump the thing and it never firms up....and I bet if I go there tomorrow morning, I'll be able to pump it 4 or 5 times before it gets firm again.

Taking the Ford...
 
#46 ·
With the engine running you will never get the primer hard. The GM filter head runs under vacuum from the factory and you just cannot push enough fuel fast enough to overcome what the CP pump pulls. With the engine not running, 4-5 pumps to get hard is normal. If you are not having starting issues, leave it alone you will FUBAR it.

Until the most recent Duramax, the fuel system is vacuum from he tank to the high pressure common rail pump. The little primer pump on top of the filter head is to prime the filter. When you change the filter, they say not to put anything in the filter. Instead screw it onto the head, and with the bleeder closed, pump until hard. Once hard, open the bleeder and release the air. Repeat until fuel comes out the bleeder. What I did that seemed to work best for me was to pump the primer about 10-15x (not quite hard yet) and release the air. Pumping until it gets hard pushes air into the fuel lines and makes it stall once upon starting.
 
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#51 ·
Not when it's running

The firm test is engine off, 1st thing in the morning before crank. The primer button should be firm. Perhaps 1-1/2 pushes 'till firm.

If it takes 4-5+ 'till firm (again, engine off), it's leaking and you're losing prime on the system. It will progress to a no-start, or start then die, remedied by priming 'till firm again, then crank.
 
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