heater/AC control and fan not working after starting on one battery - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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heater/AC control and fan not working after starting on one battery

I had a leak in my windshield squirter hose somewhere under the drivers side battery. I pulled the battery to find the leak. I repaired the leak and started the truck on one battery. No problems at that time. I replaced the battery.
This was yesterday. This morning on the way in to work I was feeling heat blowing instead of outside air. I tried moving the heat control and nothing changed then I tried the fan control and the fan is not working either. I cannot tell if the light behind the control is on or not.
Could starting on one battery cause a fuse to blow or fry a wire somewhere?
I have not had time to check the fuses yet as I am at work.
Looking for your opinions.
It is an '05 dmax.
Thanks

2005 quad cab short box 4x4, DIY CAI,
S&B MP, PCV reroute, ARP studs, race plug
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tkms002 View Post
I had a leak in my windshield squirter hose somewhere under the drivers side battery. I pulled the battery to find the leak. I repaired the leak and started the truck on one battery. No problems at that time. I replaced the battery.

This was yesterday. This morning on the way in to work I was feeling heat blowing instead of outside air. I tried moving the heat control and nothing changed then I tried the fan control and the fan is not working either. I cannot tell if the light behind the control is on or not.

Could starting on one battery cause a fuse to blow or fry a wire somewhere?

I have not had time to check the fuses yet as I am at work.

Looking for your opinions.

It is an '05 dmax.

Thanks


Fan control not working can be associated with the resistor used to control fan speed in the blower. Its located up above passengers feet as well as the blower. I replaced mine awhile ago it was like 90$ for the damn thing. Believe i had to remove the blower fan to get at it. Was fairly easy i think i did it all in the auto parts parking lot with a couple of basic tools. I do remember it affecting the way my AC worked somewhat. Plenty of youtube videos on the resistor replacement though


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5” straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by caleb.broege View Post
Fan control not working can be associated with the resistor used to control fan speed in the blower. Its located up above passengers feet as well as the blower. I replaced mine awhile ago it was like 90$ for the damn thing. Believe i had to remove the blower fan to get at it. Was fairly easy i think i did it all in the auto parts parking lot with a couple of basic tools. I do remember it affecting the way my AC worked somewhat. Plenty of youtube videos on the resistor replacement though


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5” straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
Thanks but I dont think that is it as I replaced that and the connector(ground wire was melted) not long ago and the heat/AC selector is not changing the incoming air temp. Always sending HOT air.

2005 quad cab short box 4x4, DIY CAI,
S&B MP, PCV reroute, ARP studs, race plug
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkms002 View Post
Thanks but I dont think that is it as I replaced that and the connector(ground wire was melted) not long ago and the heat/AC selector is not changing the incoming air temp. Always sending HOT air.


Oh then you’re probably right if you already did it. It was just a hunch


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5” straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
caleb.broege is offline  
post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 09:35 AM
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Check all of your fuses. There are two 'climate control system' fuses in the instrument panel fuse block (side of dash), and there's the BLWR fuse in the underhood fuse block.

Might also try to do a blend door reset.

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/2...l#post11408386

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
Check all of your fuses. There are two 'climate control system' fuses in the instrument panel fuse block (side of dash), and there's the BLWR fuse in the underhood fuse block.

Might also try to do a blend door reset.

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/2...l#post11408386
I looked at the HTR A/C fuse and the HVAC 1 fuse and they are good. The BLOWER looks to be a circuit breaker. I dont have a way to test that right now. Is there a way to do it with an ohm meter?
I found another problem. I have no head lights either. Tail lights, directionals, emer flashers and backup lights are good but no head lights either high or lo beam. The yellow indicator lights are on in front. Cant tell about brake lights.
So, for the moment all I can find that is not working is the blower, the headlights and the heat/cool air selectors for both passenger and driver side. I cannot tell for sure but I don't think the light that is behind the temp sliders is on either.
Why would starting the engine on one battery cause all these issues?
GRRRRR

2005 quad cab short box 4x4, DIY CAI,
S&B MP, PCV reroute, ARP studs, race plug
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tkms002 View Post
I looked at the HTR A/C fuse and the HVAC 1 fuse and they are good. The BLOWER looks to be a circuit breaker. I dont have a way to test that right now. Is there a way to do it with an ohm meter?
I found another problem. I have no head lights either. Tail lights, directionals, emer flashers and backup lights are good but no head lights either high or lo beam. The yellow indicator lights are on in front. Cant tell about brake lights.
So, for the moment all I can find that is not working is the blower, the headlights and the heat/cool air selectors for both passenger and driver side. I cannot tell for sure but I don't think the light that is behind the temp sliders is on either.
Why would starting the engine on one battery cause all these issues?
GRRRRR
Oh and I did check the 4 head light fuses. THey appear to be good.

2005 quad cab short box 4x4, DIY CAI,
S&B MP, PCV reroute, ARP studs, race plug
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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I just realized this. The ONLY lights that are on at the front are the parking lamps. NO DRL or head lamps.

2005 quad cab short box 4x4, DIY CAI,
S&B MP, PCV reroute, ARP studs, race plug
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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OK I just realized that the DRL's only work when it is in drive. They are working when the truck is in drive but headlights(hi and lo) are not working no matter where the selector switch or the transmission is.

Thinking about disconnecting both batteries to reset the system. Does that make any sense?

2005 quad cab short box 4x4, DIY CAI,
S&B MP, PCV reroute, ARP studs, race plug
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-17-2018, 11:45 AM
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Low voltage can do some screwy things to the different modules.
Reset as I suggested, wouldn't hurt.

Also for future reference, in checking the DRLs, select 'N' instead of 'D', the park brake doesn't always hold....don't get ran over. 'Auto' function test, cover the light sensor on the dash.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"
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