Matt's L5P info dump... - Page 108 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
2017+ L5P Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1071 of 1084 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmmettTheL5P View Post
Itís a strong smell, like eyes watering strong.
Itís coming through the A/C vents regardless of what the airs set on. Itís not a normal smell. Iíve got a leak somewhere. Weíve had 5 different trucks with DPFís, Iíve never had one smell like this. Iíve seen others post the same thing. I called the dealer, they said theyíve had to tighten a turbo clamp on a few of them. He said to bring it in and theyíd check it out.


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Just thinking here and throwing ideasmout there. But look for soot.. if there is a leak soot is usally there. But if u cant see any soot. Here's a couple of little tricks I've used in the past.
I have used this trick in the past it Doesnt always work but it's worth a try.
Take a spray bottle with water and dish soap in it. Spray down the exhaust piping with the truck idling and if theres a leak it will start to bubble like a leaking tire. I've used this to find exhaust manifold leaks before.
But sometimes the leak is to much back pressure and just blows the water solution out of the way.
I would suggest a smoke machine as well but I know if the smoke would pass through the dpf/scr/doc bricks properly to feed the smoke through the tailpipe.
But you could remove the egt sensor on passengers side exhaust manifold and seal it up so the smoke is being pushed into the system.
I have run into a few leaks on lml trucks where the bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold on the down pipe cracks beside the welds and causes smoke during regen or exhaust smell in cabin. Seen it on both v band clamp style down pipes and the 3 bolts flange(2015.5+) lml trucks.
Not sure if there is an issue on l5p trucks but hey no harm in taking a gander.

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2006 LBZ, EFI Live from duramaxtuner.com/motor ops with transmission tuning(STRONGLY RECOMMEND), FASS 150 Titanium series, 3 inch MBRP downpipe, 4 inch MBRP free flowing exhaust system(factory muffler back on to kill the drone when towing), Egr blocked and turned off, trans-go shift kit Jr, Edge Cs 85100 for reading data, PPE FPRV race plug, more Mod's to come when cash is in my bank account!
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post #1072 of 1084 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Itís coming through the A/C vents regardless of what the airs set on.
Even on 'ReCir', there's a small percentage of outside fresh air mixed in.....something to do with liability if someone dies from an exhaust leak buildup, I reckon.
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Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
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post #1073 of 1084 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 08:32 AM
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Finally got my cts2 in the truck, is egt post turbo the closest you can get to manifold? I thought these truck has a manifold egt sensor


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08 Sierra Dually
---Hot shot rig---
400K miles 06/29/17
New motor at 138K
Deletes, CTS2, EFI by Idaho Rob,Wherli 3" y bridge, Danville GT3794, billet converter, 4.44 gears, trutrac
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post #1074 of 1084 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kowclub173 View Post
Finally got my cts2 in the truck, is egt post turbo the closest you can get to manifold? I thought these truck has a manifold egt sensor


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You should be able to see the one in the manifold. You might have to update it to the latest firmware if they didnít do it when they repaired it. It wonít to see it without the update.


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9/26/17 80k miles with no issues...

--2015 GMC 3500 SRW/CCLB--

Engine rebuilt @ 170,000 miles due to hole in cylinder #7
First start on 5/13/16

8/29/17 REBUILD 2.0 @ 295k miles


255k miles on 4/1/17, and goin' strong...

S&B Intake, 3" MBRP downpipe, Flo-Pro 5" downpipe back exhaust/no muffler, PPEI tuned no longer, MOONSHINE tuned by Tony @ RidgeRunner, Airdog lift pump...

Monitoring via CTS2

Engine
Fingers Oval Bowl pistons @ 17.5:1 .040 over
Carrillo rods
chromoly pushrods
SoCal Girdle
ATI Super-Damper
ARP main and head studs
Keyed crank and cam
SDP CP3 coversion w/ Sportsman pump

Suspension
305/55/20 MT Baja ATZ P3s on stock 20's...
Kryptonite tie rods/centerlink

BUILD THREAD
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post #1075 of 1084 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.A.M. View Post
You should be able to see the one in the manifold. You might have to update it to the latest firmware if they didnít do it when they repaired it. It wonít to see it without the update.


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10-4 Iíll try updating tonight. Missing a lot of other pids too


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08 Sierra Dually
---Hot shot rig---
400K miles 06/29/17
New motor at 138K
Deletes, CTS2, EFI by Idaho Rob,Wherli 3" y bridge, Danville GT3794, billet converter, 4.44 gears, trutrac
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post #1076 of 1084 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kowclub173 View Post
10-4 Iíll try updating tonight. Missing a lot of other pids too


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Yeah, sounds like the same thing that happened to mine the first time I plugged it into the Ď17.


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9/26/17 80k miles with no issues...

--2015 GMC 3500 SRW/CCLB--

Engine rebuilt @ 170,000 miles due to hole in cylinder #7
First start on 5/13/16

8/29/17 REBUILD 2.0 @ 295k miles


255k miles on 4/1/17, and goin' strong...

S&B Intake, 3" MBRP downpipe, Flo-Pro 5" downpipe back exhaust/no muffler, PPEI tuned no longer, MOONSHINE tuned by Tony @ RidgeRunner, Airdog lift pump...

Monitoring via CTS2

Engine
Fingers Oval Bowl pistons @ 17.5:1 .040 over
Carrillo rods
chromoly pushrods
SoCal Girdle
ATI Super-Damper
ARP main and head studs
Keyed crank and cam
SDP CP3 coversion w/ Sportsman pump

Suspension
305/55/20 MT Baja ATZ P3s on stock 20's...
Kryptonite tie rods/centerlink

BUILD THREAD
M.A.M. is online now  
post #1077 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.A.M. View Post
Somebody asked the here awhile back what info for regular maintenance.

Oil changes every 5K. Stick to that pretty hard, donít like going over. Donít use any special oil, and never switched over to synthetic in this truck. Probably should, as synthetic withstands heat better, as well as flows better during the winter cold starts. Iím sure Iíve got my oil plenty toasty.

Tire rotations I do every oil change on the single wheel. Never rotate them on the duallys, the tears always wear pretty even, and I can usually run 2 sets of rears before the fronts need replaced. I swap the fronts side to side every 20kish.

Transmission and transfer case fluid got switched to Transynd at 100k. Coming up on another drain and fill at 200k.

Front and rear diff levels get checked every oil change. Iím planning on draining and refilling at 200k.

Plan on a flushing the coolant, as well as brake fluid and power steering fluid. Shouldíve done brake fluid and power steering at 100k, but rolled right past and forgot about it.

And a wash a few time a week to try and look good going down the road!


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Any notable difference after the switch to Transynd? Did you do a single or double drain? Have you ever dropped the pan and changed the internal filter?

How often are you changing the spin-on ATF filter and cleaning the magnet?

Is 100k the first fluid change for the transfer case?

In the rear diff, what level do you look for? The book calls for 6.3 pints (3 quarts and 4.8 oz) but if you fill it to the fill hole it takes around 4 quarts.

How often is your truck calling for a fuel filter change? Do you follow the DIC for fuel filter change intervals?


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2017 Chevrolet 3500HD (L5P)
CM SK Aluminum flat bed
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post #1078 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 03:00 PM
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From OM, regarding Rear axle check:

All axle assemblies are filled by volume of fluid during production.
They are not filled to reach a certain level. When checking the fluid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory fill differences between the minimum and the maximum fluid volume.

Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the fluid level, it may appear lower than
normal because fluid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area.

Therefore, a reading taken five minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower fluid level than a vehicle that
has been stationary for an hour or two. The rear axle assembly must be supported on a flat, level surface to get a true reading.


. For all 6.6L Duramax Diesel 2500HD Series applications and all 3500 Series applications,
the proper level is from 17 mm to 21 mm (0.6 in to 0.8 in) below the bottom of the fill plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.




Summary
-- Needs to sit for a least an hour or 2 before checking
-- Correct level is 0.6" to 0.8" (5/8 to 3/4") below the hole
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2018 GMC 2500 L5P CCSB 4x4 Denali - Mineral Metallic; previous '11 LML, '10 LMM and 04.5 LLY
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post #1079 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 03:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmmettTheL5P View Post
Any notable difference after the switch to Transynd? Did you do a single or double drain? Have you ever dropped the pan and changed the internal filter?

How often are you changing the spin-on ATF filter and cleaning the magnet?

Is 100k the first fluid change for the transfer case?

In the rear diff, what level do you look for? The book calls for 6.3 pints (3 quarts and 4.8 oz) but if you fill it to the fill hole it takes around 4 quarts.

How often is your truck calling for a fuel filter change? Do you follow the DIC for fuel filter change intervals?


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Didnít really notice any change after switching to Transynd. I just did a single drain and fill. Havenít ever removed the pan to change the internal filter. Spin on gets changed every 40-50k. Yes, 100k was the first fluid change for the transfer case. I do that whenever I do the transmission, since Iím right there anyway.

For the rear diff, if it spills out when you remove the plug, itís too full. I usually stick my finger in there to make sure itís there just under, approximately 0.5Ē under the hole.

Yes, I follow the DIC for fuel filter changes. Itís usually 12-13k miles.


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9/26/17 80k miles with no issues...

--2015 GMC 3500 SRW/CCLB--

Engine rebuilt @ 170,000 miles due to hole in cylinder #7
First start on 5/13/16

8/29/17 REBUILD 2.0 @ 295k miles


255k miles on 4/1/17, and goin' strong...

S&B Intake, 3" MBRP downpipe, Flo-Pro 5" downpipe back exhaust/no muffler, PPEI tuned no longer, MOONSHINE tuned by Tony @ RidgeRunner, Airdog lift pump...

Monitoring via CTS2

Engine
Fingers Oval Bowl pistons @ 17.5:1 .040 over
Carrillo rods
chromoly pushrods
SoCal Girdle
ATI Super-Damper
ARP main and head studs
Keyed crank and cam
SDP CP3 coversion w/ Sportsman pump

Suspension
305/55/20 MT Baja ATZ P3s on stock 20's...
Kryptonite tie rods/centerlink

BUILD THREAD
M.A.M. is online now  
post #1080 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Old girl is up to 220k.

No issues other than the EGR bellows are cracked again. I have a new pipe laying in the shop, but still havenít gotten it changed. Tempted to just weld the one shut thatís on the truck since itís the outside edge of the Bellows, and itís pointing straight up. Easy to get to.








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9/26/17 80k miles with no issues...

--2015 GMC 3500 SRW/CCLB--

Engine rebuilt @ 170,000 miles due to hole in cylinder #7
First start on 5/13/16

8/29/17 REBUILD 2.0 @ 295k miles


255k miles on 4/1/17, and goin' strong...

S&B Intake, 3" MBRP downpipe, Flo-Pro 5" downpipe back exhaust/no muffler, PPEI tuned no longer, MOONSHINE tuned by Tony @ RidgeRunner, Airdog lift pump...

Monitoring via CTS2

Engine
Fingers Oval Bowl pistons @ 17.5:1 .040 over
Carrillo rods
chromoly pushrods
SoCal Girdle
ATI Super-Damper
ARP main and head studs
Keyed crank and cam
SDP CP3 coversion w/ Sportsman pump

Suspension
305/55/20 MT Baja ATZ P3s on stock 20's...
Kryptonite tie rods/centerlink

BUILD THREAD
M.A.M. is online now  
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