Ideas to OPTIMIZE DPF regens?? - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
2017+ L5P Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ideas to OPTIMIZE DPF regens??

We pull our travel trailer 6-7 times a year but otherwise I use our L5P for errands in a town with red lights every 500 feet (retired). I make about 80 miles in town before a 20 mile ride thru the country to regen. Filter performance on trips, towing or solo, is not an issue. The truck is obviously not practical for in town driving, but I've got what I've got, and I live where I live. I'm searching for ways to optimize the cycle -- either accumulate soot slower, or get better regens. I have a Banks iDash 1.8.

  1. REGEN CLEANING: Experimenting with different speeds/gears for the regen ride. Currently looks like 65-75 MPH, cruise control, IN 5th GEAR , seems to regen down to a lower number. The slightly higher RPM's produce a little more heat but I may be kidding myself since higher RPM's would also create more soot at the same time. I'm getting end of cycle numbers at 8-10% using this method. Best ever was 6% on a forced mobile regen from the i-Dash. Any experience on other driving conditions that seem to give cleaner regens?

  2. STOP AND GO DRIVING: Experimented with not taking the shortest route in town and that has some promise. IF I go the long way around and get the EGT4 temp above 400F the filter % seems to grow much slower. However, really hard to maintain 400F - once I enter the red light que's it cools down to 350 pretty fast, or a 10 minute stop will drop it to 250 or so, and it won't warm up again without more uninterrupted driving........even at 100F ambient.

  3. I'M WONDERING ABOUT INSULATING THE DIESEL EXHAUST FILTER (ONLY). Seems like that would help all the time - in town and on highway. Setting aside how to do it and the downsides when it is raining, is there a reason not to try this? Would it get TOO HOT pulling the TT up the mountains ?

  4. FUELS: I track a lot of data around regen cycles including various fuels. I've seen suggestions that fuel brand will impact DPF loading but I just haven't seen a difference. I only use branded fuel - Texaco, BP, Shell - and from stations that are relatively high volume. Never used the traditional Pilot, Loves, TA, etc, as I am concerned about their quality and moisture levels in spite of the high turn-over. The branded fuels I'm using are less than 5% bio-fuel but the Pilot and TA stations here are "up to 20%". Would these commodity fuels with higher bio-diesel be better or worse for the regen cycle life?

  5. MORE TEMPERATURE: I've considered looking for an AC-powered heating pad to mount around the DEF to get it warm before my errands even start. May be hard to find a sheet heater that will withstand the 1200F regen temperatures, and wouldn't be worth doing unless it could get it up to 200F or so.

  6. PARTIAL DELETION?: Instead of an outright deletion, could you remove the filter and use a long drill bit to put small holes thru the core of the filter and then reinstall it?.....to reduce pressure drop across the entire cycle but not open it up so much that the computer detects it when clean? Just a wild thought -- I'm way beyond my headlights on this one, but ultimately this thing works off differential pressure, yes?


.....and before you suggest it:
A) I previously had a nice Jeep I restored for in-town errands, but this truck cost so much that management "suggested" I sell that along with my Tundra to offset the L5P cost. That might be a future solution, but things will have to cool off a lot more.

B) We could move further out of town or to another town but ..........see A) above.

C) Why not trade for a gas burner? I will probably do that before the 3 year warranty is up, but the 2019 gas truck was very disappointing in performance and trim (dealers don't order gas burners in LTZ), and I don't buy the first year of redesigned models. Timing of that change will ultimately be dictated by ........well......see A) above.

D) Quit bitching about a decision you made without due dilligence - just live with it and shut up. I'm not bitching, I'm just looking for ways to make it more tolerable.


I know this isn't a huge problem for all of you folks out there that are still working and commuting, and let me just add that we retirees really appreciate those social security contributions you continue to make. Meanwhile, any thoughts or experience on silver bullets that extend the cycles??

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post #2 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 06:35 AM
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I suggest option D.

Also live in the suburbs of Salt Lake City and have the the Derringer with iDash as well.

I perform a stationary regen if the truck tells me to go drive it.

Not much else we can do except tell our government and the auto manufacturers to come up with better technology than the DPF system.

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post #3 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Technically I presented option D as a non-choice so that's going to take away from your overall score, but I may look the other way on that. I readily admit my due diligence amounted to "we drove it, we liked it, we bought it". Normally I would know much more about a vehicle than the dealership did before I buy. It's the most impractical, least thought out, most expensive non-house purchase I've ever made. Well.......... other than yacht.

I'm intrigued with your comment about using the stationary regen routinely. Every first-person experience I've ever read about doing this always ends with the same comment ".....and I'll probably never do that again....". Apparently it's pretty intense.

So I'm curious about heat removal. Banks' instructions for a stationary regen calls for OPENING THE HOOD. However the engine fan and shroud, coupled with the closed up engine room and the transmission tunnel effectively forms a wind tunnel to sweep much of the radiant heat out the back - a pretty efficient set up. "opening the hood" disrupts that flow pattern and frankly seems counter intuitive.

So, do you do it with the hood open or closed?

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post #4 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Collins View Post
We pull our travel trailer 6-7 times a year but otherwise I use our L5P for errands in a town with red lights every 500 feet (retired). I make about 80 miles in town before a 20 mile ride thru the country to regen. Filter performance on trips, towing or solo, is not an issue. The truck is obviously not practical for in town driving, but I've got what I've got, and I live where I live. I'm searching for ways to optimize the cycle -- either accumulate soot slower, or get better regens. I have a Banks iDash 1.8.
I barely notice that mine is in regen; in any case, the only even slightly annoying aspect is that it idles a bit higher than usual and so require more brake pedal pressure at stops. What is the nature of the problem you're having with regens?
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post #5 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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I live in a town of 50K in north Alabama. The surrounding area is generally rural but we live "in town". There are no bypasses and no interstates within 15 miles of my house. On my normal route of errands I won't get further than 3 miles from my house but may spend 2-3 hours to go to 4-5 places. With no "routine" opportunities to go further than 1000 feet without stopping at a light, literally, it cannot regen in my town environment. The regen stops when I stop, and it won't restart until I've been over 30 mph for about 30 seconds which is about the next redlight.

Given this situation I have to drive out in the country to do regens. I'm retired so I can do that, but it's a PITA to only have it available to drive in 80 mile spurts (every 6-7 days).

A local diesel shop told me the filter system was designed to work best when your speed averages over 35 MPH. Most of my in-town cycles will average 15-20 MPH, and sure enough on the rare occasions that a cycle averages over 35 MPH the cycle distance is not an issue. Obviously my in-town usage is the problem.

JD - You live in NJ and work in NYC, but our surveillance indicates you use a compact car for your work commutes - I can probably come up with that tag number. I imagine you have lots of interstate-type bypasses to move your truck to Home Depot and wherever on the weekends. So my problem is caused by the nature of my town as it is the nature of the truck itself, but as I said I live where I live.

Again I didn't start this thread to bitch about it. I'm just looking for experience on little things I could do that might extend the cycles.

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post #6 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Collins View Post
I live in a town of 50K in north Alabama. The surrounding area is generally rural but we live "in town". There are no bypasses and no interstates within 15 miles of my house. On my normal route of errands I won't get further than 3 miles from my house but may spend 2-3 hours to go to 4-5 places. With no "routine" opportunities to go further than 1000 feet without stopping at a light, literally, it cannot regen in my town environment. The regen stops when I stop, and it won't restart until I've been over 30 mph for about 30 seconds which is about the next redlight.

Given this situation I have to drive out in the country to do regens. I'm retired so I can do that, but it's a PITA to only have it available to drive in 80 mile spurts (every 6-7 days).

A local diesel shop told me the filter system was designed to work best when your speed averages over 35 MPH. Most of my in-town cycles will average 15-20 MPH, and sure enough on the rare occasions that a cycle averages over 35 MPH the cycle distance is not an issue. Obviously my in-town usage is the problem.

JD - You live in NJ and work in NYC, but our surveillance indicates you use a compact car for your work commutes - I can probably come up with that tag number. I imagine you have lots of interstate-type bypasses to move your truck to Home Depot and wherever on the weekends. So my problem is caused by the nature of my town as it is the nature of the truck itself, but as I said I live where I live.

Again I didn't start this thread to bitch about it. I'm just looking for experience on little things I could do that might extend the cycles.
Got it, that makes sense. But you should check the dates on your intel feeds. For some time now I've been riding the slave ship back and forth to work like obedient chattel.


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post #7 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 11:51 AM
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Iíve found that keeping the rpmís up helps mine regen faster, the egt goes up during regen. Iíve regenerated in about 12 miles by just manually keeping in it a gear lower than it would normally be. 4 th gear and about 45 seems to work best if you can get up to that speed in town. I will also go slower in a lower gear to try and time the lights so I donít stop.

I think the computer sees more air flow through engine at higher rpmís so it thinks itís ok to inject more.

Itís kinda funny this came up. I had written a post about it about a week or so ago, but hit delete instead of post and didnít feel like writing it all again at that time.
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post #8 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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"Got it, that makes sense. But you should check the dates on your intel feeds. For some time now I've been riding the slave ship back and forth to work like obedient chattel."

JD: I'll have my staff reach out to the NJ branch and see what the problem is on intel. In reviewing your dosier I also see we haven't updated details on your new residence since your existing arrangement expired today. Very sloppy work.

Mikey52: Interesting. I hadn't considered going to that extreme but I'll give it a try. A 12 mile regen would go be a huge improvement.


What other ideas are out there? Fuel additives, incantations, religious interventions, bribes to the computer tech at the dealer? Nothing's off the table other than a full delete.

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post #9 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:43 PM
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Ideas to OPTIMIZE DPF regens??

Mine typically wants to go into regen leaving the feed store. Itís about 12 miles home from there. There are about 12 redlights and one stretch about a mile long with a 25 mph speed limit. Then the last mile home is 30 mph. Even in the 25 mph zone if I keep it in 2nd gear, instead of letting it shift to 3rd it keeps regenning.

It is normally complete about 1/4 mile from the house, so it gets to sit and idle till the egt gets down to 300 or so. I once shut it off at 350, came back about 2 mins later to move it and it was at 425 before cranking.

Last edited by MIkey52; 08-15-2019 at 12:46 PM.
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post #10 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:50 PM
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In reviewing your dosier I also see we haven't updated details on your new residence since your existing arrangement expired today. Very sloppy work.
It's not glamorous.

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