On one run I got over 40.5PSI of boost and threw a warning alarm on my Banks IDash

Update: things are progressing. I have a couple data logs into PPEI for review and some tweaks. I have had one regen thus far at 273 miles but that was shortly after I installed it. My Idash said I was at 81% soot level this morning on the way into work so we will see where this next regen lands. It take a bit for fuel economy #s to balance out after retuning so it will be a bit before I can give any numbers there. This is a 100HP tune so I am looking to test something smaller to see if things improve over the 100.

Overall, it woke the truck up and lets it dance now.

I think your looking for trouble......

Before I get started, I mean no offense but this thread is not here for a debate about whether delete tuning is better than emission compliant tuning. That ship has sailed and we need to move on to what we can do with our trucks. This is designed for information sharing and question answering.

We have been helping #PPEI with beta testing a 2020 Denalli HD with their new Street Performance Calibrations. So like the 17-19s it still requires an ECU swap and they are currently using HPTuner MVPI2 and associated software.

This single tune we are testing is a 100hp file that is emissions compliant. We had a hiccup in the very beginning last week with licensing the vehicle with the HP software. PPEI was able to work through it though and after that there no hitches. The HP MVPI2 uses tuning credits to license a truck. For a L5P it takes 10 tuning credits to license it.

So here is what I had to do:

1. The ECU is essentially under the battery. The only way to get to it is by removing the driver side fender inner liner with a torx bit.

2. Four 7mm bolts hold the ECU to the frame.

3. There are three ratchet style plugs and each one has a center lock on it. The smallest of the three plugs also has a button you have to push down on top of the plug to remove it.

4. Install in reverse order. I left the liner out until it was flashed to make sure there weren't going to be any problems and have to go back to stock setup.

5. Now that ECU is installed, we fired up the laptop. With the ignition on but not running, you connect to the truck. When it opened it needs to license the truck. Like I said earlier, it requires 10 HP tuning credits to do this. Once it is licensed, you do a write entire option to write the file to the unlocked ECU. This took about 5-6 minutes.

6. Once installed I let the truck warm up for a bit while I re-installed the fender inner liner.

7. You have to go through a process of relearning the crank and the ECU immobilizer. The crank you can do with your HP software. The immobilizer needs to be done with a GM tool. The truck will run fine without the immobilizer, JUST DON'T TRY TO REMOTE START UNTIL IT IS RELEARNED.

I have about 35 miles on the truck so far. One thing I would recommend and will probably get added to PPEIs instructions is doing a manual regen before you start driving it to make sure you are starting from a clean slate.

Truck is way more responsive! Unlike the 6 speeds that get mad after a flash and have to relearn everything and will shift weird, the 10 speed didn't skip a beat, shifted as smooth as before the flash. On one run I got over 40.5PSI of boost and threw a warning alarm on my Banks IDash but that is just an alarm for me and can be adjusted up.

Going to get immobilizer relearned tomorrow then some data logging for Kory to take a look at things but initially I am all smiles. Now to see how it does with regens, def usage and fuel economy.