To modify or not??!! - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
Aftermarket Mods. Discuss what Mods are right for you.

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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I have an 05 LLY that I bought in really good condition. I wasn’t specifically looking for one but needed something to tow my fifth wheel camper. One owner mediculously maintained no rust ALL ORIGINAL unmolested excellent shape. This truck has 256k mi. I’ve never driven anything like this with that many miles but you’d swear it had 60k mi. So my question is this:

I’m aware of the overheating that can occur while towing heavy. I’ve taken a couple 6 hr trips towing my 5th wheel camper. It weighs about 14-14,500k lbs loaded. I’ve towed up inclines long enough to warrant a downshift and hold through the remainder of the hill on an 85 degree day. No issues thus far. My trips are summer, some hills, mostly within 6 hrs of home once per month but we are planning an 1800 mi trip out west this September. Do I hack into this one owner all original zero issue truck for preventative overheating reasons or not? Just want to make an educated decision given that it’s such a nice truck and seemingly fine to me. Thanks for any info/opinions!

2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB 4x4
LB7 w/ about 213k mi
Edge Juice w/attitude

Last edited by ThreeMs; 05-09-2019 at 07:17 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:06 AM
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While the radiator is a bit smaller compared to the following year model, your main culprit with heat is that Turbo Inlet Duct. <-That's your mod goal.
Under $100....pays off x10.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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I figured that would be at minimum if I modify but then that brings up which one, PCV reroute now also or not yadda yadda. Of course depending on what you read the main culprit is air flow through this stack. Just seems of you’re going to hack into it, it’s all or nothing.

2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB 4x4
LB7 w/ about 213k mi
Edge Juice w/attitude
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:34 AM
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I've been thru it all with the LLY, working it towing heavy for 100k miles on grades/hills, head gaskets, heat, new engine, etc. Any hack job on the CCV is not needed and will do nothing for performance or longevity.
Just upgrade the flawed & highly restrictive inlet duct and you'll be GTG.
This will help too;
https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/d...x-cai-mod.html

In regards to the cooling stack of coils out front, any model year Dmax needs to have the stack cleaned at some point. Make sure yours is clean and free flowing (spraying thru the grille at the car wash....doesn't do it).
Bugs and grass will suck up from the bottom side and lodge in between each coil.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Great to know coming from your actual experience thanks! Which do you recommend? Found a “gpp” mouth piece for $89 that touts the same performance as it’s twice the price S&B

2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB 4x4
LB7 w/ about 213k mi
Edge Juice w/attitude
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 07:44 AM
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Don't know what a gpp is
Just order the GM OE part, pick up a 4" coupler, cut the tube just before the Yellow warning, assemble and tighten. gtg

Note; out of all the aftermarket ones offered, the original OE LBZ is the Largest...and the cheapest.
IF you can obtain the kodiak version below, no cutting of the air tube is needed....will bolt right up.


2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"

Last edited by Hook'em_Horns!; 05-09-2019 at 07:46 AM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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I really appreciate the info. Thanks!

2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB 4x4
LB7 w/ about 213k mi
Edge Juice w/attitude
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 01:15 PM
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Inlet tube is a must!!!! 260k Miles here, love it. Honestly I’d do the must do mods, nothing else. Drive it and enjoy it.
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04.5 CHEVY 2500HD CC/SB LT-Green, 2" Leveling Kit, Bilsteins, Wicked Wheel 2, Boost Stick, 4" MBRP Turbo Back w/ 5" tip, Resonator plugged, Airdog LP, PCV reroute, Airbox Mod with AFE Filter, LBZ MP, Fleece Tapshifter, EGR Delete, Edge CTS2, Mishimoto Trans Cooler, EFI Live Tuned/ Idaho Rob,5% tint, 265K and still going strong,
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