New Idler Bracket Tight to Turn - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
Drivetrain Discussion on gearing, CV joints, driveshafts, axles, brakes, etc.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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New Idler Bracket Tight to Turn

Last night I replaced idler arm and bracket, pitman arm, inner and outer tie rods, lower ball joints, upper control arms, shocks, cv axles, steering shock, center link (of whatever its called), brakes and links. Basically everything in the front.

Immediately I found the steering to be incredibly stiff. It requires some effort to turn the wheel (while the truck is on stands with no tires installed). I know the idler arm on the bracket wouldn't turn without a lot of force. To get it to move I had to stand on the bracket and use both hand to move the idler arm on the pivot.

Is this normal? I haven't drove it yet with power steering, but to me it looks like I have problem here. I know my knuckle assembly moved free before I installed the tie rods, so I know its not the the ball joins or cv axle.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 09:46 AM
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No, absolutely not normal. You need to go back over your install and see what is causing the problem.

Ron Nielson
2008 Silverado LT, CCLB, Edge Insight CTS
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well I took it apart and the tight steering is from the idler arm/bracket assembly. I did notice the more torque you put on that pivot nut the harder it is to turn the idler arm... the instructions say 90fts which is what I had it at. I took it apart and torque it to 50lbs and it's better..

so I dont know what I should do.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 10:53 PM
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Here is information pertaining my 2008 model:


For the mounting bolts:

  1. Install the idler arm bolts (3) and nuts (1) to the frame.
Tighten the bolts and nuts to 105 N.m (78 lb ft).


For the arm itself
Install the new idler arm nut (3) to the idler arm (1).
Tighten the nut to 62 N.m (46 lb ft).


When correctly installed, it should move smoothly. Because it's new, it may be a little tighter than the old one, but not a lot. It's just a shaft turning with a bearing.If this a greaseable idler, apply the fitting and see if it doesn't turn more easily. I believe most replacement idlers will be greaseable.

Ron Nielson
2008 Silverado LT, CCLB, Edge Insight CTS
2009 Arctic Fox 29-5T, Silver Fox Edition, Onan 3600 LPG generator

Last edited by Ron Nielson; 10-09-2019 at 10:56 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 08:21 AM
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Did you measure the old length of the threads on the center link or count them before building/ installing the new one? That might be part of the problem.....

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Well I know for sure with the new assembly torque to 50lbs the old assembly has more threads showing, but like Moog has said in the past their product might be slightly different. I didn't take the old assembly apart since I had the two new pieces, so who knows if the thread is longer or shorter on one.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Well I'm getting extremely frustrated here.

I still have very tight steering. I even bought another idler arm and bracket to see if the one I had was defective. It had the same very tight feeling while out of the truck ( I had to put my foot on the bracket so I can push the idler arm with my hand) Moog parts btw. I don't see anything hitting or binding.

It so tight that why moving the steering wheel from lock to lock hoping that it would "wear in" I started pushing fluid from under the power steering reservoir cap!!!

I don't know what else to do. I'm going to reinstall the old one and see if this changes anything. It has to be this idler arm! You cant tell me its normal for it to be this tight (while out of the truck) and I tried 2 different brackets, but both were Moog HD parts.

The fluid coming from under the power steering cap has my really pissed. Now what else do i have going on.... The truck is still on jack stands with the tires off, so there isn't any pressure from the ground and I didn't have the truck running.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 09:52 AM
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You are aware that turning the steering wheel engine off is much more difficult than with engine on, right? Try it with engine on and see what happens And you have lubed the new part?



It might be helpful to you and to those who read your posts to have your signature filled out with the info about your truck.

Ron Nielson
2008 Silverado LT, CCLB, Edge Insight CTS
2009 Arctic Fox 29-5T, Silver Fox Edition, Onan 3600 LPG generator
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Nielson View Post
You are aware that turning the steering wheel engine off is much more difficult than with engine on, right? Try it with engine on and see what happens And you have lubed the new part?



It might be helpful to you and to those who read your posts to have your signature filled out with the info about your truck.
lol. Well I never worked on a truck that had an idler arm/pivot assembly before. So I have nothing to compare, BUT I find it hard to believe its this hard to turn with my wheels up in the AIR. I actually was going to try it with it running and with the wheels on the ground so I had my "power" assist, but now i'm pissing fluid from under the power steering cap while I manually turn the wheel while my tires are in the air. Never seen this happen before. So i'm lost. I guess I could try it, but am I going to be pissing more fluid out since the truck is running?

2005 2500HD 6.6 Duramax

Thanks
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 08:36 PM
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Put a pan under it and give it a try. Put a big piece of plastic, cardboard, etc underneath the pan, in case you miss the pan.

Ron Nielson
2008 Silverado LT, CCLB, Edge Insight CTS
2009 Arctic Fox 29-5T, Silver Fox Edition, Onan 3600 LPG generator
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