The bleeder screw seals with an O-ring...sealing it off before the screw bottoms out (so no need to torque it like a lug nut), and with it under vacuum draw, it's not coming loose.
So finger tight is all that's needed. Replacing with metal won't make it seal any better, but has a 'good feel' factor.
There are several seals in the filter head that can fail, the bleeder screw one, is only one spot.
You can 'try' a rebuild kit, but not all potential leak areas of the filter head are serviceable.
If the seal kit doesn't work, replace the whole head with a new one, also replacing the two fuel lines to and from it.
More rare than the filter head leaking, is the fuel module in the tank and the seal on the quick connect line there, on top of the tank.
Start with one, work to the next.
Always good in troubleshooting a start then die problem, is to check that primer button for firmness, so as to rule out loss of prime and a leak source aerating the fuel supply.
2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"
Last edited by Hook'em_Horns!; 04-21-2019 at 08:07 PM.