LB7 Top Wiring Harness/Battery Issues - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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LB7 Top Wiring Harness/Battery Issues

Ok so I have greatly neglected my truck over the past few years and I am afraid that it has gained me what will be a massive wiring headache...

(back story) So fall of 2017, I went out to start my truck after not having driven it in a few months (probably 3-4) I fired it up and let it warm up a little and then pushed the clutch in and grabbed the shifter. I then popped the emergency brake and moved the shifter to second and then let the clutch out slowly. As I started down the grade of my driveway, I went to apply a little bit of brake and the pedal dropped to the floor. Long and short I discovered that I had at least one rusted and ruptured brake line. I ordered a stainless line kit a few days later and yeah fast forward to now...

Since that time I have tried to let the truck run every so often and have tried to keep it washed. With that being said, I have noticed that the batteries drain 2-3 days after charging them. The batteries have been replaced and are new so I know that isn't the issue.

Upon further inspection, I noticed that either mice or squirrels have had their way with the top Delphi engine harness connector... Several wires (4 I think) on the male side have been broken/chewed through, which has led me to wonder if this could be my drainage issue. If that is in fact contributing, or is the overall problem, what are my options to fix this? Any help to include part numbers would be amazing. I am not a wiring guru, but if a new connector being spliced is what is needed I will take that on.

Any help offered is greatly appreciated!

2004 LB7 RCLB ZF-6: Valair Single Disk-PPE HotX2e.t.-H2ís on 265/70/17 Fierce Attitudes-Diamond Eye 4inch-and a few other odds and ends-
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 04:21 PM
J83
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Originally Posted by dirtymaxxfireman View Post
Ok so I have greatly neglected my truck over the past few years and I am afraid that it has gained me what will be a massive wiring headache...

(back story) So fall of 2017, I went out to start my truck after not having driven it in a few months (probably 3-4) I fired it up and let it warm up a little and then pushed the clutch in and grabbed the shifter. I then popped the emergency brake and moved the shifter to second and then let the clutch out slowly. As I started down the grade of my driveway, I went to apply a little bit of brake and the pedal dropped to the floor. Long and short I discovered that I had at least one rusted and ruptured brake line. I ordered a stainless line kit a few days later and yeah fast forward to now...

Since that time I have tried to let the truck run every so often and have tried to keep it washed. With that being said, I have noticed that the batteries drain 2-3 days after charging them. The batteries have been replaced and are new so I know that isn't the issue.

Upon further inspection, I noticed that either mice or squirrels have had their way with the top Delphi engine harness connector... Several wires (4 I think) on the male side have been broken/chewed through, which has led me to wonder if this could be my drainage issue. If that is in fact contributing, or is the overall problem, what are my options to fix this? Any help to include part numbers would be amazing. I am not a wiring guru, but if a new connector being spliced is what is needed I will take that on.

Any help offered is greatly appreciated!
unless the chewed wires are touching each other, or ground are not likely to cause a draw on the batteries. Your truck does have a resting parasitic draw (all vehicles do, it keeps the clock time, driver settings ect live in memory). This draw is typically 20-30 ma which will kill a healthy set of batteries in a week or so depending on other factors like temperature, age of the batteries, condition of the connections ect. So some draw is normal. To put that 20-30ma in perspective, that is about the same draw it takes to keep the single LED lit on a cigarette socket adapter, so were not talking about much here. If you have things like said cigarette adapters or aftermarket alarms, remote starts, tracking systems ect installed that will double or more your draw, which will reduce the life of the batteries in stand by. I would say that 2 days is short for a standby life on good healthy batteries, i would expect that you probably have a parasitic draw somewhere around a half amp or so, which would make me think of small things like a stuck relay, hood lamp staying on when closed ect.

You can do a parasitic draw test, and start removing fuses to isolate the system that is causing the draw, i have a step by step guide i posted in this section of the forum. You must do this test as the next step in troubleshooting to locate the cause of the draw before addressing the issue. You should fix the mouse damage as well, but i dont think that is your issue. The older GM trucks are known for high parasitic draws and frequent dead batteries. Its almost a running joke with installers, gotta get the install done before the batteries die.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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unless the chewed wires are touching each other, or ground are not likely to cause a draw on the batteries. Your truck does have a resting parasitic draw (all vehicles do, it keeps the clock time, driver settings ect live in memory). This draw is typically 20-30 ma which will kill a healthy set of batteries in a week or so depending on other factors like temperature, age of the batteries, condition of the connections ect. So some draw is normal. To put that 20-30ma in perspective, that is about the same draw it takes to keep the single LED lit on a cigarette socket adapter, so were not talking about much here. If you have things like said cigarette adapters or aftermarket alarms, remote starts, tracking systems ect installed that will double or more your draw, which will reduce the life of the batteries in stand by. I would say that 2 days is short for a standby life on good healthy batteries, i would expect that you probably have a parasitic draw somewhere around a half amp or so, which would make me think of small things like a stuck relay, hood lamp staying on when closed ect.

You can do a parasitic draw test, and start removing fuses to isolate the system that is causing the draw, i have a step by step guide i posted in this section of the forum. You must do this test as the next step in troubleshooting to locate the cause of the draw before addressing the issue. You should fix the mouse damage as well, but i dont think that is your issue. The older GM trucks are known for high parasitic draws and frequent dead batteries. Its almost a running joke with installers, gotta get the install done before the batteries die.


J83,

I seriously appreciate the response. I will find that guide that you posted and start with the parasitic draw test first to see if that is what is causing my issue. Thank you!

2004 LB7 RCLB ZF-6: Valair Single Disk-PPE HotX2e.t.-H2ís on 265/70/17 Fierce Attitudes-Diamond Eye 4inch-and a few other odds and ends-
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-19-2019, 12:56 PM
J83
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J83,

I seriously appreciate the response. I will find that guide that you posted and start with the parasitic draw test first to see if that is what is causing my issue. Thank you!


In case you did not find it already.

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/g...ng-system.html

2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
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