Most people on other platforms perform "Big 3" upgrades to power large accessories. Obviously the LMM doesn't need any alternator upgrade or anything due to already running 2 batteries.
Im just wondering if anybody has upgraded their grounds and power cables throughout the system?
Plan on adding a blue seas auxiliary box to neatly wire all of my accessories to, also have an upgraded audio system so figured while I'm at it I can replace all the grounds and majority of the cables running between the batteries. Wondering if anyone else has done this and made their own cables and want to share their experience.
Planning on running 2 Gauge most likely then covering each with respective PET Sleeving, Heat Shrink, and Soldered lugs.
not sure how this is obvious.... i would highly recommend upgrading the grounds and charging cables. The number of batteries has no bearing on the ability of the alternator to produce power, you have 2 batteries for cold weather starting, and the alternator is there to recharge them, and run the trucks electronics. While you should not test this on modern vehicles, a car or truck once running, will stay running if the battery is disconnected providing the alternator is working as designed. The battery serves a roll though in filtering AC ripple from the alternator, so for this reason you should not try this on modern transistor based vehicles.
I run 0 gauge OFC audio power wire for my grounds and power. There is 1 run that conencts both battery grounds to each other to prevent floating grounds between the two batteries, and 1 cable from each battery - to the frame. The run that connects battery to battery also connects the the firewall stud to ground the cab at the same potential, and from that lug there is a ground cable to the engine block.
For power there is a 0 gague OFC run from the alternator lug to each battery +.
So 7 cables in total, all with crimped then soldered lugs and split loom. 2 gauge would be fine, but its not a very common size wire in the car world, if your using 2G welding wire, i would recommend you dont, and instead use audio power wire, it is significantly more flexible and the jacket is designed for the environment. If you want even better cable, use marine grade, as its rated for higher exposure. when buying cable, ALWAYS buy OFC (oxygen free copper) and not CCA (copper clad aluminum). Make sure the cable is #AGW, so in your instance 2AWG, or in mine 0AWG. AWG is american wire gauge and is a actual standard. If you just buy 2G or 0G then the diameter of the conductor is not standardized and is up to the manufacturer to determine what there flavor of gauge means. This is how you get 0G wire on amazon for 30 cents a foot, because its 80% jacket and has a 1/4" of wire in the center.
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
Lofty goal, but after my recent venture into replacing all of the 13 yo crumbling flex wrap on everything, I'm not sure you have much extra room for a larger diameter running thru some of the narrow passageways I encountered, crossing over from one side to the other.
I promises there is room. Your looking at ~200 in cable and lugs and an hour or two of your time to get this done. Its really no where near as daunting as it appears.