2018 Non Bose Stereo upgrade questions - Page 3 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
Gauges, Electronics and Wiring. A place to discuss electronic / wiring issues and what gauges, audio, video, nav systems, lights, ect. are right for you.

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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 03:51 PM
J83
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on a side note, it will be good to finally install this stereo gear in something, been sitting in my closet since 2015! doh!
ohh, so you have the good Pioneer TS-D's.... those will be nice. i have the same speakers in the component set, they are one of my favorite all around speakers. The new TS-D's are not built as well in my opinion.

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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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ohh, so you have the good Pioneer TS-D's.... those will be nice. i have the same speakers in the component set, they are one of my favorite all around speakers. The new TS-D's are not built as well in my opinion.
Yes that's what I have, the 6.75" components. I was looking at my notes from 2015 and I made a note to run them on the -3db setting, can't remember why

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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 05:49 PM
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Yes that's what I have, the 6.75" components. I was looking at my notes from 2015 and I made a note to run them on the -3db setting, can't remember why
id leave them at 0, they are not super harsh speakers like the kicker QS line for example. make sure you check them before you put the doors back on, removing those door skins is not exactly dreamy.

the + and - refers to the amount of high frequency cut the tweeter gets, this is not the factory speaker, this is the one either built into the woofer, or separate depending if you have coax or component speakers. a - will reduce the "volume" of the high frequency, a + will increase it. the larger the number the greater the cut or boost.

-3 will give you a 3db cut, which effectively halves the power to the speaker. the decibel scale is not liner though so a -6 would be 4x -9 would be 8x and so on the reduction and vise versa for the + just in the other direction. The math above is not 100% accurate, it is the "back of the envelope" method of doing the wattage and db calculation, its close enough for really anything short of a physics exam or something.

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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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id leave them at 0, they are not super harsh speakers like the kicker QS line for example. make sure you check them before you put the doors back on, removing those door skins is not exactly dreamy.

the + and - refers to the amount of high frequency cut the tweeter gets, this is not the factory speaker, this is the one either built into the woofer, or separate depending if you have coax or component speakers. a - will reduce the "volume" of the high frequency, a + will increase it. the larger the number the greater the cut or boost.

-3 will give you a 3db cut, which effectively halves the power to the speaker. the decibel scale is not liner though so a -6 would be 4x -9 would be 8x and so on the reduction and vise versa for the + just in the other direction. The math above is not 100% accurate, it is the "back of the envelope" method of doing the wattage and db calculation, its close enough for really anything short of a physics exam or something.
Ahh, ok, makes sense. I guess I could use this opportunity to use up some of this sound deadener I have as well. I'll have to look up some vids on removing the door panels!

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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 06:30 PM
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the hardest part is the window seal, it comes off with the door panel and needs to be reinstalled on the door before the panel is put back on, its just frustrating to get all the little tabs lined up and you feel like the panel is just on the edge of breaking the whole time you are removing it. its not really hard, just sketchy.

as far as sound damping, the best bet it to use strips or squares and add weight to large flat panels. you do not need to coat the whole door in it, you can, but its not required. if you have a limited quantity of material, things like the inside of the outer door skin are good places, because its almost flat and has very little or no reinforcement on the back, so you get a lot of buzzing and rattling. the goal of sound damping, at least the heavy rubber stuff that is most common, is simply to add weight to the panel, this lowers the panels natural harmonic frequency below what is audible, the panel still vibrates you just cant hear it any more.

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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-30-2018, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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the hardest part is the window seal, it comes off with the door panel and needs to be reinstalled on the door before the panel is put back on, its just frustrating to get all the little tabs lined up and you feel like the panel is just on the edge of breaking the whole time you are removing it. its not really hard, just sketchy.

as far as sound damping, the best bet it to use strips or squares and add weight to large flat panels. you do not need to coat the whole door in it, you can, but its not required. if you have a limited quantity of material, things like the inside of the outer door skin are good places, because its almost flat and has very little or no reinforcement on the back, so you get a lot of buzzing and rattling. the goal of sound damping, at least the heavy rubber stuff that is most common, is simply to add weight to the panel, this lowers the panels natural harmonic frequency below what is audible, the panel still vibrates you just cant hear it any more.
ok excellent, I have the Stinger butyl with aluminum backing and a few boxes of Dynaliner self adhesive foam.....so I can finally put those to good use while I'm in there!

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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 10:27 AM
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ok excellent, I have the Stinger butyl with aluminum backing and a few boxes of Dynaliner self adhesive foam.....so I can finally put those to good use while I'm in there!
the aluminized stuff is what i was talking about for the weight, the foam is better for keeping wire harnesses and plastic parts from vibrating against other parts. use it around wire harnesses and where the plastic door panel meets the metal to act as a cushion.
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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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the aluminized stuff is what i was talking about for the weight, the foam is better for keeping wire harnesses and plastic parts from vibrating against other parts. use it around wire harnesses and where the plastic door panel meets the metal to act as a cushion.
check! I think the last thing it would be nice to have a copy of would be the green connector wiring diagram. As I understand it, that's the one with all the speaker wire leads. Probably going to use a AX-GMLAN 09 EXT extension harness if I can verify its the same 16pin connector and build a T-Harness to keep it all plug and play

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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 01:11 PM
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check! I think the last thing it would be nice to have a copy of would be the green connector wiring diagram. As I understand it, that's the one with all the speaker wire leads. Probably going to use a AX-GMLAN 09 EXT extension harness if I can verify its the same 16pin connector and build a T-Harness to keep it all plug and play


if you look at the install guide for your truck for the maestro harness from idatalink the guide lists all your wire colors and locations. Im not sure if i got the right radio in the link below, you may want to check.

http://images.idatalink.com/corporat...N_20180528.pdf

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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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if you look at the install guide for your truck for the maestro harness from idatalink the guide lists all your wire colors and locations. Im not sure if i got the right radio in the link below, you may want to check.

http://images.idatalink.com/corporat...N_20180528.pdf
thank you, looks like that one was for a Colorado, searching!

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