2018 Non Bose Stereo upgrade questions
I'm wanting to augment the stock stereo system in my 2016 Crew Cab. Would like to run 1 10" subwoofer and possibly a set of components up front.
1. What are the speakers sizes? dash/front doors/rear doors
2. Where can I pull a full stereo signal from?
Sorry, my truck is a 2018 not a 2016
Door speakers should be 6.5s.
I’d run a shallow mount jl 10 and some jl, alpine or Memphis 6.5s.
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I did the kicker vehicle specific system with sub/amp and digital processor for the HU. Really pleased with the easy install and overall performance. Better than Bose imo. Just another option to choose from. Down the road I’d like to do door speakers as well, but no rush on those.
Thanks guys, I'm primarily looking for which speakers I can get a full stereo signal from or 20Hz to 20,000Hz or close to it. Some newer car speakers only receive a partial signal, mainly to support the freq's those particular speakers are designed to produce, also more common in higher end stock stereo systems rather than the base model stereo systems like mine.
update, my truck has RPO codes IO6 and UQ3 which are 8" navigation screen and 6 speakers sound system. I don't believe any of the speakers are amplified and quite possible the front speakers "might" carry a full or near full signal! more to follow as I learn
If you want true full signal then you either need to use an equalizer to rebuild what was lost by the decks signal processing using an RTA, or you need to replace the deck with an aftermarket.
edit: it occurred to me after posting that it says NON bose, so in that case, you should have audio at the head unit directly wired to each speaker. GM did change the standard radio wire colors on the NNBS trucks though if memory serves, do not use the NBS or OBS wiring info.
I suppose I could drop some coin on an Audio Control LC7i that could do some summing and provide 3 channels of output........thoughts?
analog would mean that the deck produces an AC wave that plays directly to the speakers. That does not necessarily mean the deck does not have sensing for dead speakers (when you would need resistors) some decks send a digital signal to a amplifier that decodes the data, processes it, amplifies it, then sends an analog signal to the speakers. This can be done either over copper wire, or plastic fiber optic cable depending on the design of the car. GM does not use fiber optic cable, so you are in the clear there.
i have not done a 18, but i have done a 17 and resistors were not required, at least when replacing the speakers with an aftermarket with a 4 ohm voice coil.
I have used resistors on that truck before, but only when amplifying the door speakers. The resistor was used to keep the factory tweeters from blowing your eardrums with the door chime.
while i have not personally used the summing device you are talking about, i do know about it, and have heard lots of good things about it. I will tell you that the factory radio on those new trucks really cuts the bass hard, without some kind of signal processor, your final results (sub wise) may be underwhelming.
Line Out Converter =
Audio Control LC2i
Front Door and Dash Speakers/Amplifier =
1x Pioneer GM-D8604 Class FD 4-Channel 600W amp
1x Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch D-Series Components
Rear Door Speakers =
Under Rear Seat Subwoofer/Amplifier =
1x Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono 800W amp
1x Sundown Audio SA-10 D2 Rev 2 (10" Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Sub)
Possibly a LC7i over the LC2i, use the component tweets in the dash position, 6.75" in the front doors, maybe sending power to stock rear door speakers
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