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-   -   2018 Non Bose Stereo upgrade questions (https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/gauges-electronics-wiring/982127-2018-non-bose-stereo-upgrade-questions.html)

moregrip 07-13-2018 03:24 PM

2018 Non Bose Stereo upgrade questions
 
I'm wanting to augment the stock stereo system in my 2016 Crew Cab. Would like to run 1 10" subwoofer and possibly a set of components up front.

1. What are the speakers sizes? dash/front doors/rear doors

2. Where can I pull a full stereo signal from?

Thank you!

moregrip 07-13-2018 03:26 PM

Sorry, my truck is a 2018 not a 2016

LML6600DMAX 07-13-2018 04:05 PM

Checkout Crutchfield.com

Door speakers should be 6.5s.

Id run a shallow mount jl 10 and some jl, alpine or Memphis 6.5s.


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kenny_r 07-14-2018 04:49 PM

I did the kicker vehicle specific system with sub/amp and digital processor for the HU. Really pleased with the easy install and overall performance. Better than Bose imo. Just another option to choose from. Down the road Id like to do door speakers as well, but no rush on those.

moregrip 07-15-2018 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LML6600DMAX (Post 12030189)
Checkout Crutchfield.com

Door speakers should be 6.5s.

Id run a shallow mount jl 10 and some jl, alpine or Memphis 6.5s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenny_r (Post 12030545)
I did the kicker vehicle specific system with sub/amp and digital processor for the HU. Really pleased with the easy install and overall performance. Better than Bose imo. Just another option to choose from. Down the road Id like to do door speakers as well, but no rush on those.


Thanks guys, I'm primarily looking for which speakers I can get a full stereo signal from or 20Hz to 20,000Hz or close to it. Some newer car speakers only receive a partial signal, mainly to support the freq's those particular speakers are designed to produce, also more common in higher end stock stereo systems rather than the base model stereo systems like mine.

moregrip 07-18-2018 09:59 AM

update, my truck has RPO codes IO6 and UQ3 which are 8" navigation screen and 6 speakers sound system. I don't believe any of the speakers are amplified and quite possible the front speakers "might" carry a full or near full signal! more to follow as I learn

J83 07-18-2018 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moregrip (Post 12030179)
I'm wanting to augment the stock stereo system in my 2016 Crew Cab. Would like to run 1 10" subwoofer and possibly a set of components up front.

1. What are the speakers sizes? dash/front doors/rear doors

2. Where can I pull a full stereo signal from?

Thank you!

it depends what you mean by full stereo signal, technically GM radios do not produce full range audio, they have internal filtering to reduce wear and tear on the factory speakers for a longer service life. They do this by dropping out a lot of the low end and some of the high with some fairly aggressive band pass filtering, hence the saying, "all highs, no lows, must be bose" if you just mean signal that contains low mid and high frequency then you should be able to tag signal at the radio or at the bose amp, ive only worked on a couple of the new chevy trucks but the ones i worked on had analog audio at the head unit. either way, you will for sure have signal at the bose amp outputs, front doors are your best bet for signal, rears seem to me to have heavier bass filtering, though i have not use an RTA to prove that.

If you want true full signal then you either need to use an equalizer to rebuild what was lost by the decks signal processing using an RTA, or you need to replace the deck with an aftermarket.

edit: it occurred to me after posting that it says NON bose, so in that case, you should have audio at the head unit directly wired to each speaker. GM did change the standard radio wire colors on the NNBS trucks though if memory serves, do not use the NBS or OBS wiring info.

moregrip 07-18-2018 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J83 (Post 12031989)
it depends what you mean by full stereo signal, technically GM radios do not produce full range audio, they have internal filtering to reduce wear and tear on the factory speakers for a longer service life. They do this by dropping out a lot of the low end and some of the high with some fairly aggressive band pass filtering, hence the saying, "all highs, no lows, must be bose" if you just mean signal that contains low mid and high frequency then you should be able to tag signal at the radio or at the bose amp, ive only worked on a couple of the new chevy trucks but the ones i worked on had analog audio at the head unit. either way, you will for sure have signal at the bose amp outputs, front doors are your best bet for signal, rears seem to me to have heavier bass filtering, though i have not use an RTA to prove that.

If you want true full signal then you either need to use an equalizer to rebuild what was lost by the decks signal processing using an RTA, or you need to replace the deck with an aftermarket.

edit: it occurred to me after posting that it says NON bose, so in that case, you should have audio at the head unit directly wired to each speaker. GM did change the standard radio wire colors on the NNBS trucks though if memory serves, do not use the NBS or OBS wiring info.

Would you happen to know if resistors are needed with the GM trucks if you remove the stock speakers (like an Audio Control LGD)? I'm not sure I understand what you mean by analog but in my head that means legacy or "how it used to be" and therefore may not need the resistors to produce sound when hooking up an amplifier.

I suppose I could drop some coin on an Audio Control LC7i that could do some summing and provide 3 channels of output........thoughts?

J83 07-18-2018 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moregrip (Post 12032155)
Would you happen to know if resistors are needed with the GM trucks if you remove the stock speakers (like an Audio Control LGD)? I'm not sure I understand what you mean by analog but in my head that means legacy or "how it used to be" and therefore may not need the resistors to produce sound when hooking up an amplifier.

I suppose I could drop some coin on an Audio Control LC7i that could do some summing and provide 3 channels of output........thoughts?


analog would mean that the deck produces an AC wave that plays directly to the speakers. That does not necessarily mean the deck does not have sensing for dead speakers (when you would need resistors) some decks send a digital signal to a amplifier that decodes the data, processes it, amplifies it, then sends an analog signal to the speakers. This can be done either over copper wire, or plastic fiber optic cable depending on the design of the car. GM does not use fiber optic cable, so you are in the clear there.

i have not done a 18, but i have done a 17 and resistors were not required, at least when replacing the speakers with an aftermarket with a 4 ohm voice coil.

I have used resistors on that truck before, but only when amplifying the door speakers. The resistor was used to keep the factory tweeters from blowing your eardrums with the door chime.

while i have not personally used the summing device you are talking about, i do know about it, and have heard lots of good things about it. I will tell you that the factory radio on those new trucks really cuts the bass hard, without some kind of signal processor, your final results (sub wise) may be underwhelming.

moregrip 07-27-2018 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J83 (Post 12032195)
analog would mean that the deck produces an AC wave that plays directly to the speakers. That does not necessarily mean the deck does not have sensing for dead speakers (when you would need resistors) some decks send a digital signal to a amplifier that decodes the data, processes it, amplifies it, then sends an analog signal to the speakers. This can be done either over copper wire, or plastic fiber optic cable depending on the design of the car. GM does not use fiber optic cable, so you are in the clear there.

i have not done a 18, but i have done a 17 and resistors were not required, at least when replacing the speakers with an aftermarket with a 4 ohm voice coil.

I have used resistors on that truck before, but only when amplifying the door speakers. The resistor was used to keep the factory tweeters from blowing your eardrums with the door chime.

while i have not personally used the summing device you are talking about, i do know about it, and have heard lots of good things about it. I will tell you that the factory radio on those new trucks really cuts the bass hard, without some kind of signal processor, your final results (sub wise) may be underwhelming.

Right now the plan looks something like this

Line Out Converter =
Audio Control LC2i

Front Door and Dash Speakers/Amplifier =
1x Pioneer GM-D8604 Class FD 4-Channel 600W amp
1x Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch D-Series Components

Rear Door Speakers =
Stock

Under Rear Seat Subwoofer/Amplifier =
1x Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono 800W amp
1x Sundown Audio SA-10 D2 Rev 2 (10" Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Sub)

Possibly a LC7i over the LC2i, use the component tweets in the dash position, 6.75" in the front doors, maybe sending power to stock rear door speakers


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