06 LBZ Duramax - Gauge Cluster Issues and Electrical Gremlins all of a sudden - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
Gauges, Electronics and Wiring. A place to discuss electronic / wiring issues and what gauges, audio, video, nav systems, lights, ect. are right for you.

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 06 LBZ Duramax - Gauge Cluster Issues and Electrical Gremlins all of a sudden

Had a very weird issue with the truck when I was driving home from the track.

Issues:
- Tow mode button causes tachometer to jump around like crazy when engaged. Also dimly blinks when engaged.
- Seat belt indicator blinks dimly.
- Tachometer jumps around and is erratic but the idle is fine and it accelerates smoothly (confirmed on my CTS2 insight gauge)
- Turn signals don't work
- Got a CEL for A/C high voltage or input... I forget which. And also a P0381 (wait to start lamp control).
- A/C stopped working
- Washer fluid warning (this may be legit... not 100%)
- Trailer drivers side brake light went out (replaced bulb but it's failed at the truck harness)
- Radio randomly shut off

Stuff I checked so far:
- Voltage stuck at 14.x so I don't think the alternator is a problem
- Fuses for electrical parts all checked out ok. Verified w/ a tester and not just looked it over.

I've researched and some people say it could be:
- Gauge cluster needs a rebuild - I'm not sure this is the issue but it could be I guess. I say that b/c the A/C shutting down & the radio cutting out seem to be unrelated to the gauge cluster.
- Melting wires behind the dash - No idea... if someone has more info on this, LMK what to look for.
- Bad grounds - Does anyone have a diagram showing all the grounds for the car so I can go over all of them (2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCLB w/ LBZ duramax engine)?

Please help.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 01:51 PM
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Most commonly the last option in my opinion: check grounds. I was never able to find a diagram though...


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5 straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I checked the one under the driver's side door where the cab attaches to the frame and while it is crusty looking, I do get connectivity between the wire & the frame rail w/ my multimeter.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetBoosted View Post
Issues:
- Got a CEL for A/C high voltage or input... I forget which. And also a P0381 (wait to start lamp control).
Here are the codes I get... the A/C one came back:
P0646 - A/C clutch relay control circuit low
P0381 - Wait to start lamp control circuit
P0650 - MIL light

Batteries, alternator & starter all just got a clean bill of health as well @ the local shop.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetBoosted View Post
Had a very weird issue with the truck when I was driving home from the track.

Issues:
- Tow mode button causes tachometer to jump around like crazy when engaged. Also dimly blinks when engaged.
- Seat belt indicator blinks dimly.
- Tachometer jumps around and is erratic but the idle is fine and it accelerates smoothly (confirmed on my CTS2 insight gauge)
- Turn signals don't work
- Got a CEL for A/C high voltage or input... I forget which. And also a P0381 (wait to start lamp control).
- A/C stopped working
- Washer fluid warning (this may be legit... not 100%)
- Trailer drivers side brake light went out (replaced bulb but it's failed at the truck harness)
- Radio randomly shut off

Stuff I checked so far:
- Voltage stuck at 14.x so I don't think the alternator is a problem
- Fuses for electrical parts all checked out ok. Verified w/ a tester and not just looked it over.

I've researched and some people say it could be:
- Gauge cluster needs a rebuild - I'm not sure this is the issue but it could be I guess. I say that b/c the A/C shutting down & the radio cutting out seem to be unrelated to the gauge cluster.
- Melting wires behind the dash - No idea... if someone has more info on this, LMK what to look for.
- Bad grounds - Does anyone have a diagram showing all the grounds for the car so I can go over all of them (2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCLB w/ LBZ duramax engine)?

Please help.



it sounds like its most likely a ground issue. There are 2 main grounds that come to mind, the first is under the driver side A pillar, the second is on the firewall to the back of the engine. Both grounds play a roll in the systems you mentioned and can cause the problems you are having. I think its highly unlikely you have any melted wires. The cluster may need a reflow, kind of depends what kind of temperature swings you get where you live and how old it is / if its garage parked vs street parked ect. The clusters usually fail because the solder joints crack after years of expanding and contracting from heat cycles. The solution is to pop the cluster out and use a soldering iron to reheat and reform the solder points on the harness connector, as they are the first to break. I would check the grounds first though before digging into the cluster, they are not cheap and hand soldering PCB's is not for everyone.

2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 02:00 PM
J83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetBoosted View Post
I checked the one under the driver's side door where the cab attaches to the frame and while it is crusty looking, I do get connectivity between the wire & the frame rail w/ my multimeter.
clean it, continuity means nothing as it is not loaded. When load increases the resistance caused by the corrosion will choke voltage.

For a better visual, if you put a kink in a garden hose, and turn the faucet on just a little bit, water still comes out like you would expect. (this is what you have checked) but if you crank the faucet to max, the flow does not increase with the change in load, this is what corrosion does to grounds. (see avatar...)

you should remove the ground, clean with a wire brush and reinstall. You can use a little dielectric grease if you are feeling frisky.
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2015 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LML
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2018, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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That's an interesting point. I did pull it apart and cleaned off some of the rust because it was bothering me but I'll throw some dielectric grease on there just for kicks then I'll see if I can replicate the issue. Thanks for the info.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-16-2018, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned off the ground under the driver's side door with a wire wheel and added di-electric grease. I'll do some testing to see if the symptoms come back. Hopefully that's all it is. Thanks!
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Still a problem so I need to keep digging.

A/C went out again. However that is the only issue so far. I still have turn signals so perhaps it's a multipart issue? Not really sure.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetBoosted View Post
Still a problem so I need to keep digging.



A/C went out again. However that is the only issue so far. I still have turn signals so perhaps it's a multipart issue? Not really sure.


When you adjust the fan speed for heat/AC does it make the fan spin faster? Or is it just a piddly wind coming out 24/7?


-head studs and gaskets
-66mm (stupid loud)
-5 straight pipe axle dumped
-shimmed
-full s&b intake and mouthpiece
-dans diesel 800 HP built trans with biller stator
-dans built trans tunes
-glowshift EGT, boost(not working because i broke it), fuel pressure(have not found a sender to work for it help please), edge cts2
-PPE sleeves
-fuel lab 100 gph lift pump
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