Brake pedal still CRAPPY,, LONG POST - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
General Discussion General Diesel Discussion.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
rock4xfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Winthrop Harbor IL
Posts: 425
Garage
Brake pedal still CRAPPY,, LONG POST

Would like thoughts. LBZ brakes were so so.. Lines on frame appear new form Original Owner pads were in decent shape and Hydro looked new. 1st thing done was replace PS pump with a better unit from PSC, system completely flushed with flushing oil and new recommended oil put in along with new cooler and SS lines to and from Hydro-boost. Brakes still crappy unless you JAM ON THE PEDAL. Now I put the same brake system I put onto my TAHOE which stops on a dime. Power-stop extreme front and rear along with parking brake rebuild, new axle seals on rear and 2 new rear rotors and 5 SS braided soft lines. Then a complete system flush with new fluid almost 2 gallons of fluid along with performing the Auto bleed on the ABS. I am not getting any air form the system after all the bleeding and the brakes in my opinion are just crap. If you are not paying attention at a stop lite you may start rolling forward, none on my vehicles require anything but lite pressure to stop and both this and my last 2500 the brakes have been SHIT. What am I missing, and I dont want to debate brake mfg quality as the originals sucked just as bad. only thing left is replacing the HYDRO

2006 SIERRA CC SB 2500HD 6.6 LBZ 179,000 and ticking
3" MBRP Down Pipe
4" Diamond Cat Back
5" SS tip
Edge CTS2
Intake resonator Plug
EFI LIVE DSP5 by ATP via BBP
AIRDOG2
Interior lighting to BLUE LED conversion
285/75/16
Leveling keys POWERSTOP Brakes.
rock4xfab is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 12:13 PM
DuramaxForum Enthusiast
 
ieetgluu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: New Hampsha'
Posts: 2,366
Are the slide pins lubed and freed up?
I don't care for the brakes in mine either, similar to your issues. I'm rarely ever happy with how they act driving around. It also likes to try to idle through brakes sometimes. Delcopro rotors n pads all around.
Also, New ps pump and lines. New hydroboost. Hard lines replaced with nico lines a few years back. I've also replaced both front soft lines with braided lines while trying to eliminate an intermittent issue with the front right caliper not releasing fully. Issue continues.


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Chad
04.5 4x4 ~160k miles
DE 4", 5100s, LBZ MP, S&B LBZ air, KoryWillis Go-go Juice, Insight CTS, ADII, 8' Fisher, Highroller Ultimate Idler Arm, Profab delete, XD RareParts tie rods






Dirtymax this, Dirtymax that... :taunt
ieetgluu is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 07:54 PM
DuramaxForum Veteran
 
Armus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Tar Sands
Posts: 1,660
Very long longshot here, as it was a totally different vehicle. Is it at all possible to (mistakenly) install the calipers upside down on your trucks?

DPF/SCR technology summarized in three words: It doesn't work.
Armus is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 08:40 PM
Senior Member
 
long-time-dmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 998
I was having a "pedal" problem with the brakes on my 2002 a short time ago. My truck always had pretty darn good brakes but over the last year or so I noticed that they really sucked and had a lot of travel in the pedal that I wasn't used to. Aside from the travel, they just weren't working all that good. So I started working on it. My power steering pump and my brake booster are both relatively new and Delco new parts so I was pretty sure that wasn't the problem. Started off by replacing the master cylinder - again with a new Delco unit. Flushed ALL the old brake fluid out - I'm the original owner and I know for a fact that my master cylinder cover has never been pulled off even once since new. I also replaced the rubber brake hoses at the calipers while doing all that. That made a great improvement in overall brake performance but it still wasn't quite right and had more pedal travel than it should have. Got to looking at the rear pads - they weren't gone by any means but they did have about 180,000 miles on them and were starting to get a little thin. Replaced the rear pads and my pedal is back.

The above is probably not your problem but figgered i'd go thru it all. While I was trying figure out my pedal problem, I did some digging and found a lot of references to bleeding air out of the ABS controller / system. A lot of folks saying that air can get in there and affect your performance but you cannot bleed it out using traditional methods. You have to electronically trigger the ABS system into "bleed mode" using a scan tool. I forgot the exact term they used for it but if you google bleeding ABS you'll probably find info on it as well as a few videos.

2002 Chevy 2500HD Crew - Original owner - 407,000 miles so far. All stock with the exception of a lift pump and Donaldson filter
long-time-dmax is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
rock4xfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Winthrop Harbor IL
Posts: 425
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by ieetgluu View Post
Are the slide pins lubed and freed up?
I don't care for the brakes in mine either, similar to your issues. I'm rarely ever happy with how they act driving around. It also likes to try to idle through brakes sometimes. Delcopro rotors n pads all around.
Also, New ps pump and lines. New hydroboost. Hard lines replaced with nico lines a few years back. I've also replaced both front soft lines with braided lines while trying to eliminate an intermittent issue with the front right caliper not releasing fully. Issue continues.


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
New Calipers on rear and the fronts sliders are new with new inserts. You can move everything by hand very easily.

2006 SIERRA CC SB 2500HD 6.6 LBZ 179,000 and ticking
3" MBRP Down Pipe
4" Diamond Cat Back
5" SS tip
Edge CTS2
Intake resonator Plug
EFI LIVE DSP5 by ATP via BBP
AIRDOG2
Interior lighting to BLUE LED conversion
285/75/16
Leveling keys POWERSTOP Brakes.
rock4xfab is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
rock4xfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Winthrop Harbor IL
Posts: 425
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armus View Post
Very long longshot here, as it was a totally different vehicle. Is it at all possible to (mistakenly) install the calipers upside down on your trucks?
No they are all correct.

2006 SIERRA CC SB 2500HD 6.6 LBZ 179,000 and ticking
3" MBRP Down Pipe
4" Diamond Cat Back
5" SS tip
Edge CTS2
Intake resonator Plug
EFI LIVE DSP5 by ATP via BBP
AIRDOG2
Interior lighting to BLUE LED conversion
285/75/16
Leveling keys POWERSTOP Brakes.
rock4xfab is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
rock4xfab's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Winthrop Harbor IL
Posts: 425
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by long-time-dmax View Post
I was having a "pedal" problem with the brakes on my 2002 a short time ago. My truck always had pretty darn good brakes but over the last year or so I noticed that they really sucked and had a lot of travel in the pedal that I wasn't used to. Aside from the travel, they just weren't working all that good. So I started working on it. My power steering pump and my brake booster are both relatively new and Delco new parts so I was pretty sure that wasn't the problem. Started off by replacing the master cylinder - again with a new Delco unit. Flushed ALL the old brake fluid out - I'm the original owner and I know for a fact that my master cylinder cover has never been pulled off even once since new. I also replaced the rubber brake hoses at the calipers while doing all that. That made a great improvement in overall brake performance but it still wasn't quite right and had more pedal travel than it should have. Got to looking at the rear pads - they weren't gone by any means but they did have about 180,000 miles on them and were starting to get a little thin. Replaced the rear pads and my pedal is back.

The above is probably not your problem but figgered i'd go thru it all. While I was trying figure out my pedal problem, I did some digging and found a lot of references to bleeding air out of the ABS controller / system. A lot of folks saying that air can get in there and affect your performance but you cannot bleed it out using traditional methods. You have to electronically trigger the ABS system into "bleed mode" using a scan tool. I forgot the exact term they used for it but if you google bleeding ABS you'll probably find info on it as well as a few videos.

everything is new front to rear except Hydro and master cylinder. The term your looking for is just that AUTO-BLEED. I purchased the scan tool and performed it 3 times, each time getting a small amount of the tinniest bubbles. which could have been from sucking around the threads. I have also used my vac pump on the system.

2006 SIERRA CC SB 2500HD 6.6 LBZ 179,000 and ticking
3" MBRP Down Pipe
4" Diamond Cat Back
5" SS tip
Edge CTS2
Intake resonator Plug
EFI LIVE DSP5 by ATP via BBP
AIRDOG2
Interior lighting to BLUE LED conversion
285/75/16
Leveling keys POWERSTOP Brakes.
rock4xfab is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 12:44 PM
Senior Member
 
long-time-dmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 998
Quote:
Originally Posted by rock4xfab View Post
everything is new front to rear except Hydro and master cylinder. The term your looking for is just that AUTO-BLEED. I purchased the scan tool and performed it 3 times, each time getting a small amount of the tinniest bubbles. which could have been from sucking around the threads. I have also used my vac pump on the system.

Master cylinder? Mine is a bit older and with 400k miles, a little more "used" but replacing it definitely made a difference. I had that problem of inching forward at red lights too. If I didn't keep an unusual amount of pressure on the pedal, I was likely to bump into the car ahead of me at a light. since I replaced the mc, rubber lines and bled the system for the first time in ~17 years all at once, I couldn't tell you how much of the improvement was actually the mc but I'd say a 70% improvement over what it was. The rear pads added the last 30%.

I replaced my hydro boost only because it was leaking- actually twice. Did a stupid and used a reman unit the first time which lasted a little over a year before it started leaking too. Replaced that with a new Delco unit which is what I should have done the first time.

I know that the mc didn't fix all my problems but it definitely improved the brakes dramatically. And it was cheap. The rear pads were the final piece.

This stuff happens so gradually - in my case over 17 years and 400k miles - that you just don't really notice it and then one day it hits you that your brakes suck! This last go-around was the first brake work on my truck other than 2 sets of front pads and one set of rear pads.

2002 Chevy 2500HD Crew - Original owner - 407,000 miles so far. All stock with the exception of a lift pump and Donaldson filter
long-time-dmax is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 01:01 PM
LHN...We ARE the Joneses
 
Hook'em_Horns!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Awww-stin, TX
Posts: 25,279
Send a message via Yahoo to Hook'em_Horns! Send a message via Skype™ to Hook'em_Horns!
Quote:
....in my case over 17 years and 400k miles....
I'm sure green moldy water instead of hydraulic fluid didn't have anything to do with it.
Yearly brake fluid flush, is best.
DOT-4 is better too.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"
Hook'em_Horns! is online now  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 06:02 PM
Senior Member
 
long-time-dmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
I'm sure green moldy water instead of hydraulic fluid didn't have anything to do with it.
Yearly brake fluid flush, is best.
DOT-4 is better too.
Nah, looked more like used motor oil. If it ain't broke, don't break it. My moto. Brakes worked so I never screwed with them. Only when I noticed how bad they'd gotten.

2002 Chevy 2500HD Crew - Original owner - 407,000 miles so far. All stock with the exception of a lift pump and Donaldson filter
long-time-dmax is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome