How To: Radiator Stack Removal and Install - Page 21 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #201 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 12:56 AM
 
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Originally Posted by nmeyer414 View Post
the next 2 steps involve removing the boots that hook to the intercooler on each side. once those are removed you can then separate the stack. I apologize for the lack of pictures here, I was having a boo boo lip moment and had to take a beverage break and a breather. if I have to do this again for some reason I will get some pics and edit this.
So did you NOT drain coolant and remove the radiator? Getting ready to do this and wanting to make sure I completely understand your instructions before diving in. Thanks.
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post #202 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 01:01 AM
 
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So did you NOT drain coolant and remove the radiator? Getting ready to do this and wanting to make sure I completely understand your instructions before diving in. Thanks.
Just found your post saying you didn't have to go that far. Any particular reason you decided not to?
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post #203 of 235 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 06:05 AM
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I was able to pull everything apart enough to get a wand in there and blow it out. I didn't have any big stuff in there just dirt.

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07 classic LBZ crew cab long box. Egr blocked 4 inch exhaust 45 hp tow tune fass lift pump
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post #204 of 235 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LBZIdaho View Post
Just found your post saying you didn't have to go that far. Any particular reason you decided not to?
To be honest, I truly did not want to mess with all of the mess that would have made.....

NATE

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post #205 of 235 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
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I was able to pull everything apart enough to get a wand in there and blow it out. I didn't have any big stuff in there just dirt.

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Did that fix your cooling problem?

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07 GMC Classic,LBZ,CCSB,4X4,SLT, 130K mi, Alligator Spade King W/ Edge Insight CTS2 , EGR Blocker, PCV Reroute, Helmholtz Plug, DE DP, DEQT 4" TB Exh, TGo Jr, Allison D Pan, Suncoast FL, PPE Airbox Mod, FASS Titainium 150, Amsoil Fluids, Formula One Tint, H2 Wheels, 285 Tera Graps, Fab 4 Rear Bump, WT SWD's, Sprayin Bedliner, Nuvi 2797, Pintle Hook, TR sleeves, Cog. Pit/Id Arm Braces, Amsoil DB Filters, Prodigy P-3, Alligator TC Lines, MA TC Brace, Allison Stg V Trans./w SunCoast 1056 3DTC, Fleece AHO mod, and a lot mure little stuff
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post #206 of 235 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 04:15 AM
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Did that fix your cooling problem?
Yes it's 5 to10 degrees cooler. But I could see that there was no big stuff in there like yours. I couldn't believe how much dirt blew out.

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post #207 of 235 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 06:14 AM
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When I did mine it didn't come clean but looked like it did. I held both of them up so I could shine a light on the back side and they both were at least 50% clogged where I couldn't see the light. So I did some more research and pressure washed them until they were completely clear. Temps still at 185-190 but when I load to 11K lbs temps just stay within the thermostat range. Problem gone.

Barry USN (Ret)
07 GMC Classic,LBZ,CCSB,4X4,SLT, 130K mi, Alligator Spade King W/ Edge Insight CTS2 , EGR Blocker, PCV Reroute, Helmholtz Plug, DE DP, DEQT 4" TB Exh, TGo Jr, Allison D Pan, Suncoast FL, PPE Airbox Mod, FASS Titainium 150, Amsoil Fluids, Formula One Tint, H2 Wheels, 285 Tera Graps, Fab 4 Rear Bump, WT SWD's, Sprayin Bedliner, Nuvi 2797, Pintle Hook, TR sleeves, Cog. Pit/Id Arm Braces, Amsoil DB Filters, Prodigy P-3, Alligator TC Lines, MA TC Brace, Allison Stg V Trans./w SunCoast 1056 3DTC, Fleece AHO mod, and a lot mure little stuff
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post #208 of 235 (permalink) Old 06-11-2018, 03:27 PM
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Thanks

Just wanted to drop a quick note saying thanks for posting this up. I used this thread to remove the entire cooling stack this past weekend and clean everything out and it was a huge help. I had been planning this for a few months now and finally found time to do it and change the fan clutch, serpentine belt, water pump, and thermostats while the intercooler and radiator were out (made it much easier). One thing to note is it was easier for us to take out the intercooler and radiator together before separating them - requires two people but made life easier. Thanks for posting this!

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post #209 of 235 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dewmanco View Post
Just wanted to drop a quick note saying thanks for posting this up. I used this thread to remove the entire cooling stack this past weekend and clean everything out and it was a huge help. I had been planning this for a few months now and finally found time to do it and change the fan clutch, serpentine belt, water pump, and thermostats while the intercooler and radiator were out (made it much easier). One thing to note is it was easier for us to take out the intercooler and radiator together before separating them - requires two people but made life easier. Thanks for posting this!
no problem, and I am glad it worked out for you on several aspects.

NATE

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2006 LBZ (Regency Edition) sold

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post #210 of 235 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 03:16 PM
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First off thank u for ur service and nice write up. I will b doin this stack cleanout very soon. But I gotta few questions. I just flushed my coolant and changed both t-stats last year just before we went on a trip to Colorado haulin 2 rangers (week of July 4th). The whole way there and back I fought my temps. Engine 215-230. Trans 210-220. (read off of my edge monitor). My fan hardly ever kicked on and when it did it didn’t last long. Got the engine down to 195 a few times. Leavin Santa Fe my engine got up to 245 before I got pulled over and then the fan kicked on. I’m just wondering if while my cooling stack is out should I go ahead and change my fan clutch and water pump? My 07 classic has 192k miles on the clock now.

*2007 Chevy Greystone Metallic 2500HD 4x4 CCSB LBZ
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