|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 01:15 PM|
Maybe some brand filters are a bit smaller?
|08-25-2019 11:14 AM|
Wow, thanks! Good update to the thread for those of us with later model trucks than the thread was originally targeting. |
O'Reilly, huh? I can't believe I couldn't come up with that! I haven't shopped there in years but I'm about to give up hope on my local NAPA too. They just jacked their prices up and I've had bad experiences lately with some of their parts.
|08-25-2019 10:50 AM|
I don't recall what I referenced in that thread, but it's what I call a popular retail auto parts store. |
If you've got a few days until the project, check out Rock
Those ^ are the split two pack filters from back in '02 when they still had the cabin filters from the factory.
However, Rock also carries the 22759208 cover, but they also carry the GM kit for the retrofit (designed more for your newer truck), using the single large filter element instead of the 2-pack from years earlier.
The floorboard space on the older style HDs, necessitated that they be 2 narrow filters, loading one-sliding forward, loading the 2nd...and it's tight getting the 2nd one in.
But with the NBS trucks' dash, you have more space below to fit the single large filter in the slot.
Various options here, including the Carbon Filter I spoke of.
|08-25-2019 10:26 AM|
Yeah I'm sure my 2012, and more importantly with 258k miles, will have plenty of nasties on the fins. And I have some foaming coil cleaner as I just bought a large can to clean the cooling stack when I had it off last month. I'm sure I have enough left to do the evaporator. It's amazing how much of that crap gets stuck in between the radiator and cooler btw. |
So I'll get all the stuff, go in and clean the fins and add the filters as soon as I can arrange a day or two at home.
And thanks for the thread, many years ago now, with all the pix and commentary, it's awesome!
And I'm stumped, I give up. When you mention going by the Irish, what store is that?
|08-25-2019 09:12 AM|
I've never been much of an allergy sufferer, and according to Doctors in this area that treat for that, I'm living in allergen hell. |
And most of the year, I live with the windows open and a whole house fan churning. So special high $$ allergen filters for the AC system, stay on the shelf at the store when I pass.
If you're looking at doing this mod on a truck that's been running for years without a cabin filter, I would definitely clean the Evap coil in the process.
Available locally, pick up a can of 'No-Rinse' Evap coil cleaner (under $10).
Various brands, don't know one that's better than the others, probably mostly all the same.
Spray on foam, let soak, then the water created on the fins when running the AC, rinses off and out the drain tube.
If it's never been cleaned before, you're likely to find what looks like matted up dog hair on the fins. The foam may need some help. Use a soft bristle brush to wipe the fins and not bend 'em.
An old toothbrush works great.
With a clean coil and fresh filters, should be GTG.
For more $$, there is a charcoal-like filter available that might be an improvement for allergy sufferers, but a good cleaning and fresh normal filters goes a long way.
|08-25-2019 08:15 AM|
I read in another thread about the can of GM spray product that puts an antimicrobial coating on the evaporator fins. Hook, in your expert opinion, is that a value added step when you're adding the cabin air filters or does the addition of filters in itself fix the musty odor problem?
I probably wouldn't even ask but that canned excellence crap from GM is not really cheap. I'd do it in a heartbeat if I thought it would help but if it's a waste of time and money, then why do it?
I'm pretty pumped up to perform this mod as it's not just an odor for me. I nearly live in my truck for a week at a time and this time of year I start coughing and even getting a sore throat after a few hours each day. Those symptoms went away last winter but now they're back at the same time as the musty A/C odors.
|06-25-2018 08:24 AM|
|kpmengr||I did this yesterday for the first time. Used a hole saw to cut most of the opening followed by the router bit. It worked great. Used a hot knife at the ends to get a nice clean square. Also took the opportunity to clean the coil. What a mess - 13 years of dirt and pine needles! Thank you for the excellent writeup and thread. Would not have had the guts to hack into the AC system without this thread. Before was not-so-fresh. Now I am funk free.|
|11-11-2017 02:22 PM|
This used to cost more and didn't come with the phillips bit. The bit if removable and you can use any 1/4 hex bit in it. I have a set of drive adapters to 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch square drives for sockets. I also have several sets of 1/4" drive nut driver bits.
For getting to the cover screws under the dash and removing the screws that hold in the blower motor on many vehicles, there is no better tool. I usually drive it with my 12 volt DeWalt impact driver but it is really too powerful for this tool. A better fit is the smaller drill/drivers that are 3 volt. A manual handle for 1/4" bits also works well and is better for getting the screws started back in.
I bet if you had a really sensitive sound meter it could detect a difference in cabin noise with the cover installed or removed but not many ears are up to the task. Especially with the time lag between listenings while the cover is removed/installed. On some cars this cover is lined with foam so it absorbs even more sound. In that case it makes a noticeable difference. The plain plastic covers don't do much though. This whole deal of covering everything up is getting out of hand.
I have gotten the NAPA kit before for customer vehicles that already had a filter and wondered why they included the cover. Now I know.
|11-11-2017 12:52 PM|
|10-20-2017 07:19 PM|
Scotch tape wouldn't help me. It was that tight. Lol
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