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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is available as replacements ain't even close to being right. They are bent on 2 different planes and simply don't work. Found a GM part # on LDS site. Googled it. Came up with the part number that NAPA gave me. Checked with all the other parts stores..all of the lines have the same double bend. My truck has the original hoses on it still...about 3-4 months after bleeding the brakes the pedal gets spongy. Figured I should replace them. Well...the only ones with the right bend on the caliper end are the 99-01 hoses....but the bracket that holds the hose to the control arm is different. I ended up taking the control arm bracket off of the old hoses and put it on the earlier hose (this side was leaking at the caliper). I will probably order the Russell stainless kit when I get my next SSD check this week. I realize they are not going to be a direct fit, bit an Adel clamp here and there will solve some of the complaints I have read about them.
I have already missed 3 events (I am a photographer, sort of) and have another one coming up this weekend...
I have the Auto Enginuity scan tool software in my laptop. It has the ability to run the ABS pump to rid it of any trapped air. I have yet to be able to get the ABS pump to run using the software...in the past this usually meant I have to much air in the system. I have a pressure bleeder on the master cylinder. I am getting nothing but fluid out of the bleeders. Very little pedal yet.
 

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I suggest you use your VIN# and go to a GM-based parts site and look up the correct part number for your particular truck. It is possible that there are several different part numbers for your year. And remember that many 2002 trucks were built in 2001, so your truck may have a different part than others. Not common, but it happens.

Just a guess, but your master cylinder may need to be replaced or one of your calipers needs to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I suggest you use your VIN# and go to a GM-based parts site and look up the correct part number for your particular truck. It is possible that there are several different part numbers for your year. And remember that many 2002 trucks were built in 2001, so your truck may have a different part than others. Not common, but it happens.

Just a guess, but your master cylinder may need to be replaced or one of your calipers needs to be replaced.
I did use the VIN...it came up with the hose with the multiple angle bends.
 

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They changed the hoses years ago to consolidate part numbers - but it seems that they didn't bother to make sure the "replacements" would fit. They don't - as the OP found out.

FWIW, Wagner did not eliminate / consolidate like other manufacturers. They still make a set of hoses that fit - problem I found is that there is something wrong at the other end where the rubber line connects to the steel line. Something is off with the fitting at that end. It screws in and everything seems fine.... but when you press on the brake pedal hard, it blows out and leaks fluid from the joint. It's like the flare angle is a tiny bit off or something. Never seen anything like it.
I called Wagner and told them about it - I think the guy on the phone just thought I was full of shit and had no clue what I was talking about. I tried several times on both sides of the truck and got brake fluid EVERYWHERE! Friggen MESS.

Anyway, maybe they've fixed that by now. I called them about it several years ago and I still have those hoses. I'm still running factory hoses on the front of mine but I'd LOVE to change them. Also FWIW, the Wagner part numbers are: BH141464 and BH141465. I got mine from Rockauto back then.

If you buy some and they work w/o leaking, let me / us know... I will buy another set and swap mine out.

Edit: I just googled the part #s. Summit Racing also sells them. I like dealing with them a bit more that Rock. More responsive....


Oh and if you do buy some and install them, make sure you check them GOOD before hitting the road with them. What I found was that they were fine with normal brake pedal pressure but when you pushed HARD, they blow out and the pedal hits the floor. Not exactly what you want to happen when you are pushing the brake pedal HARD! LOL.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They changed the hoses years ago to consolidate part numbers - but it seems that they didn't bother to make sure the "replacements" would fit. They don't - as the OP found out.

FWIW, Wagner did not eliminate / consolidate like other manufacturers. They still make a set of hoses that fit - problem I found is that there is something wrong at the other end where the rubber line connects to the steel line. Something is off with the fitting at that end. It screws in and everything seems fine.... but when you press on the brake pedal hard, it blows out and leaks fluid from the joint. It's like the flare angle is a tiny bit off or something. Never seen anything like it.
I called Wagner and told them about it - I think the guy on the phone just thought I was full of shit and had no clue what I was talking about. I tried several times on both sides of the truck and got brake fluid EVERYWHERE! Friggen MESS.

Anyway, maybe they've fixed that by now. I called them about it several years ago and I still have those hoses. I'm still running factory hoses on the front of mine but I'd LOVE to change them. Also FWIW, the Wagner part numbers are: BH141464 and BH141465. I got mine from Rockauto back then.

If you buy some and they work w/o leaking, let me / us know... I will buy another set and swap mine out.

Edit: I just googled the part #s. Summit Racing also sells them. I like dealing with them a bit more that Rock. More responsive....


Oh and if you do buy some and install them, make sure you check them GOOD before hitting the road with them. What I found was that they were fine with normal brake pedal pressure but when you pushed HARD, they blow out and the pedal hits the floor. Not exactly what you want to happen when you are pushing the brake pedal HARD! LOL.
Well...another day of getting no where with it. Pressure bleeder pumped up to 25psi...nothing but clear fluid. Hooked up the lap top, ran the automated brake bleed. ABS pump runs sporadically. Had the wife come out and help me do the old school (pump and hold.) 0 air any where. All fittings are dry. If Alligator Performance has the braided ones in stock I very well may run over there and pick them up.
Will look into the Wagner hoses.
As to the manufacture date...01/02....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rock Auto only has the left one, it is on closeout with no washers for $5. Summit.... estimated ship date is 2021-11-01. Might as well say not available.
 

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Well that sucks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well that sucks
Between the trans cooler line/radiator and this brake problem truck has been down for almost a month. I am the track photographer for Renegade Raceway, I missed an event at the track and going to the NHRA Division 6 Summit ET Finals because of it....I have plans (photography) for the next 7 weekends so I only did one of the fronts....
Anyway, go to NAPA and get 382711 & 382712. Think the counter guy said they were for a 99. The bracket that wraps around the control arm is different. May be able to get away with just drilling a new hole thru the bracket on the hose & control arm....or do it the difficult way like I did...pry the wrap around mount on your old hose open and remove it form the hose. Mount the bracket back on the control arm, connect both ends of the hose and bolt it down to the top of the knuckle. Put some reference marks on the wrap around bracket and new hose (forgot to mention, you need to remove the bracket from the new hose) and put it in a vice to reclose the bracket. The new hose does not have the plastic protective sleeve on it. I just took a piece of fuel hose, slit in and slathered some 3M weatherstripping glue on it. Placed it right where the hose is going to make contact with the control arm tab. Threw a couple of zip ties on it. I rotate the tires every oil change, figured I would just check it, if it needs to be replaced will do so.
I took some pictures of the hose that every parts store sells for the 02. I had to go to NAPA today so I showed them to my friend that works there, he is the manager of this store. He looked at the images and said that we are right, there is no way those hoses are going to fit. He said that his hands are tied, he mentioned this to the powers that be when I bought the first set and had this problem. He suggested that I just email them to NAPA...
@long-time-dmax hope this helps you some. It is not a perfect solution but it will get new hoses on your ride without going down the braided stainless steel rabbit hole. When I do the other side I am going to try and just use the bracket on the new hose...plan is to just flatten it out and drill a new mounting hole either on the bottom side of the control arm..if that is not possible then I will just drill a mounting hole on the side. My ball joint boots are shredded, so over the winter I may be replacing them. If I do, and drilling a hole on the bottom of the control while it is in the truck is not possible I will do it when I replace the ball joints. If I remember correctly, last time I put ball joints in my truck I just replaced the upper control arm. Boots have been shredded for a long time now. I live on a dirt road that some years is a bog for several months, what I normally do is once a month pump some new grease into the upper ball joint. But I am getting tired of it...not to mention all the grease splatters all over the place.
 

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Yes, just replace the upper control arms. Pressing out the old ball joint and pressing in a new one doesn't work so well. The new one won't be tight in the hole and will flop around - been there, done that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, just replace the upper control arms. Pressing out the old ball joint and pressing in a new one doesn't work so well. The new one won't be tight in the hole and will flop around - been there, done that.
I know when I replaced them the last time it was based solely on the $$ end of it. Rich, my NAPA buddy, said that between the bushings and ball joint the cost was just a bit less then replacing the arm....as I have gotten older I have learned to look at the big picture of things. Rebuild my control arm (pressing the bushings out etc) may be a few $$ less but what about the aggravation side of it :rolleyes:
 
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