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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found this truck for sale locally and like that it’s a 1 owner stock family truck. He’s done a lot of work to it and it looks like all the problem parts have been replaced recently. Other than injectors, are there any other major problems with these trucks? Is there any specific questions I should ask? I won’t be able to go look at it until next weekend(if it’s still available by then). I’ve owned an lly and lml but never an lb7. I plan on adding an exhaust and maybe just a small economy tune

1,296 Posts
Everything you ever wanted to know about an LB7:

3/23/21 19 years old – 418,000 miles, 12,267 hours

3/23/20 18 years old. 411,000 miles, 12,030 hours (even less miles this year!!!)

3/23/19 17 years old, 400,000 miles, 11,704 hours Wow! only 14,000 miles for the year!!! HOOOOORAY!!

3/23/18 16 years old, 11283 hrs, 386,000 miles

Update 3/24/17 15 years old, 10,639 hours, 366k miles.

Update 3/23/2016. 14 years old. 10,089 hours. 348k miles.

Update 3/23/2015. 13 years old, 9432 hours and 326k miles.

update: 3/31/2014 12 years old - Haven't driven the truck much the past 6 months or so. Currently a little over 305,000 miles.

9/8/2013 rolled thru 300,000 miles

Updated 5/18/2013 - a little over 11 years old

So on 3/23/2012 my 2500 HD Crew, 4x2 Duramax Allison was 10 years old and I thought I'd do a post on how it's done.

Some numbers:

254,000 miles.

Now 275,000

Obviously have averaged 25,400 miles per year but really about 40k/yr the first 3 -4 years and closer to 22k for the last 6 yrs.

7489 engine hrs.
8116 engine hrs now

In the last 6 years I have spent a little over $33,000 in diesel. Don't have numbers back to when I purchased it 10 yrs ago. (I tow a BUNCH)

Repairs / maintenance
50,000 miles - transmission fluid and filter
80,000 miles - first set of injectors replaced - covered by warranty- including rental vehicle
80,000 miles, replaced all 4 shocks
100,000 miles -replaced fan belt
117,000 miles- water pump- done at dealer ~$700
150,000 miles - front brake job
150,000 miles - rear U-joint squeaking - replaced all 3
150,000 miles - transmission fluid and filter
155,000 miles - left rear axle seal leaking / replaced
155,000 miles - second set of injectors - covered by warranty
200,000 miles - replaced fan belt
210,000 miles - 3rd set of injectors - did 'em myself ~$1600
230,000 miles - Alternator failed - replaced myself. ~$120
235,000 miles - rear brake job
235,000 miles - Replaced upper ball joints. did it myself ~$120
235,000 miles - one front shock broken -covered under lifetime warranty
254,000 miles - replaced idler arm - myself $114
254,000 miles - replaced steering damper - myself - $40
254,000 miles - replaced seeping hydro-boost brake hose - myself -$53
255,000 miles - trans fluid and filter - myself -$don't remember
263,000 miles - replaced front hub assemblies- with the GOOD ones- did it myself ~$600
263,000 miles - replaced other power steering/ brake booster hose - myself - ~$45
272,000 miles - replaced some light bulbs in the dash - ~$15
272,000 miles - replaced A/C fan motor resistor pack (lost fan speeds 1 & 2) - myself- $74
275,000 miles - replaced pitman arm - myself - ~$120 (Moog) Bitch of a job! Took 300+ lbs/ft of torque on the puller to get the old one off.
275,000 miles - replaced both front brake rotors - myself -$94 for the NAPA hi perf ones. Rotors were a litle warped and rather than turn them, I just replaced them. Brake pads look like they'll go another 100,000 miles!
280,000 miles - the oil cooler started dripping coolant. It did this for 2 days about 4 years ago and then quit altogther for the last 4 years. I could never find where it was coming from. Well it was leaking a steady drip this time and I still couldn't see where it was coming from so I took the cooler off and found that the rubber gasket between the cooler and the engine block looked like it had been "torqued" in one corner - like someone tightened one side all the way down before even snugging up the other side. Even then I still wasn't sure that was the leak! Well, got the gaskets, put it back together and it's leak-free again. First leak of any kind I ever had on this truck (other than the water pump). While I had it tore apart I also changed the lower radiator hose simply because it looked like it'd be a REAL bitch to do on the side of the road and it was 11 years old! The gaskets for the oil cooler were about $57.00 and the lower radiator hose was $87.00. Add in $13 for antifreeze and total repair was ~$155.00
288,000 miles - one of the fan belt idler pulleys locked up and shredded the fan belt. Kind of ticked off at myself for not changing those out as a PM thing. Even had a new fan belt in the back seat that I'd purchased a week earlier because the belt had 88,000 miles on it and I've been changing it every 100,000 miles. Anyway, I replaced both idler pulleys and the fan belt. $60 total for the 2 pulleys and $40 for the belt. 15 minutes to repair.
294,000 miles - %[email protected]$%$^% injectors AGAIN! Lost ~2.5 mpg on the hwy and black smoke at idle. Replaced all 8 injectors $1614.00, While I had the valve covers off I decided to check the valve lash. VERY glad I did. They're supposed to never have to be adjusted but after checking a couple, they were running anywhere from about .016 to maybe .030. They're supposed to be .012. Adjusted all them back to factory spec. Once I got it all put back together and running I instantly noticed that my engine was quiet again. Simply amazing how much quieter it is now. Haven't towed with it since the new injectors and valve lash adjustment but just driving it around town, it's got much better throttle response than it's had for a long time. I'd attribute some of that to the new injectors but really think the valve lash has a lot to do with it too.
294,000 miles - Also replaced the fan belt tension-er pulley. After one of the idlers went out and now at almost 300,000 miles, I figure it'd be the wise thing to do while I was in there doing the injectors. $16.00
300,000 miles - replaced the drive-shaft carrier bearing. The bearing was still good but the rubber "sling" it's mounted in was getting a bit brittle. $65.00
300,000 miles - replaced all 3 U-joints. Last ones went out at 150k miles so I figured it was time. $82.00
300,000 miles - changed trans fluid and spin-on filter. $100.00
300,000 miles - drain & refill rear differential. $13 for the limited slip additive from Chevrolet and paid the shop down the street $177.00 to drain & refill (seems pretty high- I'll do it myself next time)
~302,000 miles. Installed a fuel filter adapter so I can run a different filter. New filters good for 3 microns - the Delco ones I was running are somewhere around 7 micron. Hoping this might make my injectors last longer.

310,000 miles (7/6/14) - wore a hole in the leather on the steering wheel - replaced it with a used one I bought on Ebay for $89.00. They wanted $350 for a new one from Chevrolet. The used one looks perfect.

~311,000 mile (7/14) - A/C was having a tough time keeping me cool in 95F weather. I also had a restriction in the dash and it just was not moving much air. After digging around with Google, I found out my truck has a "cabin air filter". After I found out where it was located I pulled it out. As you can imagine, after 12 years and 300k miles, it was just a bit clogged up. I installed a new one. I also had a small freon leak. The high-side charging port was leaking. I evacuated the system, replaced the charging port, checked the orifice tube while I had it down (no trash or metal), vacuumed it down and recharged the system. My compressor has 311k miles and 12 years on it. It starting to show it. I could not get the high side up past 225 psi - even in 95F heat. Reckon I'll replace the compressor next spring. POS!! Anyway, cabin filter, freon and charging port $73.00. A/C works great when outside temp is 90F or below but it's working hard above 90 and takes a few minutes to cool the truck at those temps.

314,000 miles - replaced the front brake pads. They had about 160,000 miles on them and looked like they could have gone another 150k easily. I just replaced the pads, didn't turn the rotors or anything else. Replaced them with OEM pads bought from the stealership. I bought the pads almost a year ago and sat on them because after pulling the tire and looking, it just didn't need them. After sitting on the new pads for almost a year I decided what the heck and replaced them anyway. ~$135 if I remember right.

315,0000 miles. Had a power steering fluid leak. Took me a bit to find it, but it turned out to be the hydro boost unit for the brakes. Replaced it with a NAPA reman unit for $150.

324,000 miles: Finally broke down and replaced the factory radio. Wanted hands-free cell and native USB play-back and just figured if I'm going to be driving this truck another 75k-100k miles, it'd be worth it.. Also replaced the rear door speakers ( I had replaced the front ones years ago at around 200k miles) $115 for the radio and about $150 for the Infinity speakers. Money well spent!

326,000 miles: Decided it was time to replace all the front end parts that have never been replaced. I ordered lower ball joints, all tie rod ends and all control arm bushings for it. Then decided if I was going to take all that crap apart, I was going to put in new upper ball joints at the same time (I had replaced the uppers about 90,000 miles ago). Anyway, replace all 4 ball joints, all 8 control arm bushings and both sets of inner and outer tie rod ends. Cost: ~$365 in parts, $115 for front end alignment (First EVER on this truck) and $109 for a torsion bar key tool. Took most of the weekend to do the work. I was sick with a fever and kept having to take breaks and the lower control arm bushings were a BITCH until I figured out a way to make a tool out of some threaded rod, a couple of bolts and a hand-full of nuts and washers... about $25 at the hardware store. Thing drives like a new truck and I should be good for another 200k miles or so before I have to start replacing idler arms and such again!!!! More money well-spent!

332,000 miles: Added a lift pump (auxiliary fuel pump). Ever since I started using 3 micron fuel filters rather than the factory 7 micron filter (~300,000 miles or 32,000 miles ago), the truck's had trouble keeping the new filters full of fuel. When towing, especially long distance, the filter gets so low on fuel that if I shut off the engine, I may have to pop the hood and hand pump the primer pump to get the truck restarted. I suspect this problem was due to the added resistance to flow of the 3 micron filter and probably at least a little bit to the fact that my factory fuel pump has 330k miles on it. Anyway, in the interests of solving that little inconvenience and keeping air out of the injectors I installed a Kennedy Diesel lift pump. I bought the kit which included wiring harness, fittings, oil pressure sensor, hoses, pump, quick connects for the factory fittings and a SS plate with SS screws to mount the pump to the frame w/o any drilling. Right at $400 for the kit and several hours worth of work but the results so far have been fantastic. Haven't towed long distance yet but I've checked the primer pump several times and it's tight. tight. tight each time I checked. Something I haven't seen for a while.

335,000 miles: Replaced the factory A/C compressor. It was still working fine in anything under 92*F weather but was taking too long to cool off the truck in the normal 95-98 degree days here in July and August. Replaced the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube, flushed the system completely. Last year when I pulled the system down for a leaking high side charging port, I pulled the orifice tube just for inspection purposes. It was clean as a whistle. This year it had 2 tiny pieces of metal in it. Anyway, New AC Delco compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, flush fluid, freon and refrigerant oil right at $270.00. Took maybe 2 hrs to do the job plus left the vacuum pump on it over-night and charged the system the next morning. Seems to cool the truck off a bit faster now.

Jan 2016 (345,000 miles) - Just added power towing mirrors. when I bought my truck back in '02, I had the dealer remove the small, standard size, power rear-view mirrors and replace them with the big towing mirrors. Loved the big mirrors but GM didn't make these in power at the time so I've had non-power mirrors for the last 14 years. No big deal - until someone bumps into the passenger side mirror (which seems to happen A LOT). Now I gotta have someone sitting in the passenger seat to get it adjusted back to where I can "see where I been" again.

Anyway, got fed up with it about 2 weeks ago when mirror was out of whack and no one around to help me adjust - so I ordered the aftermarket ones available now. Took about 30 minutes to install both.

Wow, it's really awesome to be able to adjust the passenger side mirror w/o help!!! $250.00

350,000 miles: When I first got this truck I was working a lot more than I do now. Didn't have time to do all the maintenance and such myself so I was dropping it off to have oil changes and stuff done. Well, the first couple of transmission fluid/ filter changes were done by the stealership. Then, when I started doing them myself, I found that I could not get the transmission drain plug out. Damn, gotta drop the pan just to drain the fluid. Anyway, been doing that each time I service the transmission and it usually just makes a huge mess. Got tired of it and remembered this time that I needed to do something to solve the problem before I crawled up under it. Ordered a new drain plug and transmission pan and installed it last weekend during scheduled service. New OEM pan and drain plug ~$60. Changed fluid and both filters.

Noticed that the transmission fluid I drained out looked pretty bad. Think I'm gonna start doing a fluid drain every 25k miles rather than the 50k interval I've been doing. Guessing that so much towing is causing this.

350,000 miles: Been having a popping /clunk under the truck somewhere for a wile now. It was really starting to get bad. Turn the wheels hard one way or the other while backing or forward. Go up a curb at an angle, etc. and it would clunk. Decided the cab to frame bushings would be a good place to start. Ordered them and installed them. ~$160. Wow, what a difference in ride quality. The old ones were very compressed and hard as a rock. I think it got rid of the noise too. Will know for sure after I put some more miles on it.

360,000 miles. Replaced the power steering pump. While I was there I also replaced the pump to hydro brake boost hose. The pump has been groaning for a while now and it was just time. The brake booster works a lot better now and no more groaning when I turn the steering to the locks. $145.00

360,000 miles - The damned reman power steering pump I installed (from Napa) locked up 3 days after I installed it. I HATE reman stuff and been kicking myself in the butt for installing that junk on my truck. Anyway, had to get the truck towed for the first time because it left me stranded in a parking garage. Replaced the reman with a brand-new Delco unit that was only about $75 more than he reman... just couldn't get it on the weekend.

~362,000 miles - replaced the trans fluid with the Allison recommended TES-295 full syn stuff. Got the Mobil brand from Amazon. Bought 2 cases (8 gallons) @ ~$40 / gallon. Drained it with drain plug, changed spin-on filter and added ~8 qts of TES-295. Drove it for about a month (~1,000 miles or so) and drained it again. This time, dropped the pan, changed the internal and spin-on filters in an effort to drain as much of the old fluid as possible. Added a little more than 10 qts this time. Really seems to shift smoother now. According to Allison, all I have to do now is change the spin-on at 50k and 100k miles and then do full drain & spin-on again at 150k. That puts me past the 500,000 mile mark.

364,000 miles - replaced the thermostats and upper radiator hose. Thought the thermostats were stuck open because in cold weather (~40*F or lower) the dang thing seems to never warm up. Drove it 70+ miles one day in ~30*F temps and the needle never moved and the wife bitched about being cold the whole trip. Anyway, when I pulled out the old ones (factory set) they were definitely closed. Guess we'll see next batch of cold weather we get. Replaced the upper radiator hose simply because it was also factory original and 15 years old. Thermostats, hose and coolant ~ $65.00. Update - definitely fixed the problem. Now warms up to ~180F in about 10-15 minutes. Coldest it's been since I changed them has been about 40F. Played a little with the old thermostats out of curiosity. Appears that they were being held closed by spring pressure alone and apparently the water pump generates enough pressure to open them against that spring pressure. Something I never really looked at or even thought about before.

365,000 miles - Heard a loud noise under hood while driving down the road. Turns out my passenger side hood hinge spring came off / broke? Ordered a new hinge w/ spring $28.

365,000 miles - Freaking injectors AGAIN. I haven't trusted this set of injectors from day one but did not want to go thru another ~14 hours of work to change them out again. Got these from the same GM dealer in CA that I got the last set. Last set did fine - this set, not so much. From day one I was getting a small amount of black smoke at idle and my fuel mileage has been lower than normal. Normally when the injectors go out I'll lose ~2 mpg but I get it back when I replace the injectors. This last set I got back about .5 -1 mpg but it never got up to it's normal 19.666666666666 mpg on highway at 75 mph. Been running 18 - 18.5 mpg. Ordered new injectors (Bosch remans for sure this time) and installed them over the weekend. On tear-down found that #6 cyl injector was most likely the problem all along. Took lots of twisting and tugging to get it out of the motor and when I did it had an unusually large amount of soot built up on the tip. Anyway, got the new injectors in and the bitch wouldn't start. Fooled with it for a few hours and decided to have it towed to a shop Monday morning. Just don't have the knowledge, manual scan tool or patience to diagnose these types of things. It's Tuesday and the shop still hasn't called with a diagnoses. I suspect something like a worn out CP3 (high pressure fuel pump) or maybe a bad sensor or Fuel Injection Control Module. None of this stuff has ever been touched on this motor so it's all got lots of years and miles on it. Will update when I get the prognosis. New injectors $1699.00 + $23 shipping.

So the problem turned out to be my fault during injector replacement. Had a leak in the return fuel system and it was keeping the injection system from developing enough pressure. I also had them replace the CP3 (hi pressure fuel pump) while it was in there. I had a fuel starvation problem that I let go for ~30k miles a while back when I changed fuel filter brands and between this and the high mileage I just figured it'd be a good idea to replace it. After driving it for a couple of weeks, seems like it was a good idea to replace it More power and better throttle response than I've had in a while. Just runs GOOD and got my gas mileage back too. Did a 400 mile trip the other day and averaged 19.7 mpg. Haven't seen that since the last set of injectors failed. Total price to fix my stupidity and replace the CP3 was almost $4k plus $1800 to rent a p/u while it was down. Ouch!

I can also say this. After this, a new truck is looking more better . If those damned injectors go out again before I reach 500k miles, and history tells me that they will, I'll be special ordering a new truck. Still not absolutely sure the next one will be a diesel or even a GM but I do know it will be 3/4 ton and almost positive it will be 4WD this time. About 90% sure it will be diesel though. It's just so nice to not have to worry about towing heavy. I helped the FIL get his tractor back from the shop Friday before I tore into the injectors on Saturday. Went and picked up flatbed goose neck trailer (~guessing it was about a 5,000 lb trailer. Towed that to the shop about 50 miles away, loaded his 60 HP Case tractor and towed it back 50 miles No problem - even with bad injectors.

366,000 miles - during a road trip I noticed a noise and slight vibration in the steering wheel. Felt / sounded like it was coming from the front left. Took it in to get tires rotated and balanced. Vibration still there afterward so I jacked up the front left when I got home and spun the tire by hand. Could definitely feel the wheel bearing "grinding". Ordered a new hub for it. $144 w/ shipping. This really sucks because I just replaced both front hubs 103,000 miles back with Napa brand "super duper" hubs and they lasted less than half as long as the factory set. Actually, I'm not really sure the factory set was gone when I replaced them. I replaced them just because they had 263k miles on them and I was doing front-end stuff. Not impressed with Napa's "super duper" stuff!!! The new one is a Timken and half the price of the Napa ones. Hopefully a better product. Should be here in a couple of days and should take about 2 hours to replace. Part came in - missed on time guesstimate. Took right at 1 hour and much of that was spent dragging tools out, putting them up and looking up bolt torques on the net.

370,000 miles: Fuel leak! Wife smelled diesel on the way home Sunday night. Got home, looked under the truck and fuel was dripping off the bottom of the transmission bell housing. Didn't have time to deal with it during the week and needed to get it fixed before Friday as needed to tow my cargo trailer to Houston and back (about 600 mile round trip) so I brought it to the dealer. Took them a while to find the leak (I had tried briefly Sunday night) and as I figured, it was leaking down by the CP3 in the motor valley and running out the back and down the bell housing. Basically dry rotted rubber lines (supply and return) down there hooked to the CP3 (high pressure fuel pump). They replaced the lines which were only about $15 each but the labor to get in there and replace them was high - as expected. This is really my fault and a maintenance failure on my part for not replacing 15 year old rubber lines before now. It's time to replace every rubber line and hose on the truck that hasn't already been done. Parts and labor $662

372,000 miles - been having a problem off and on with temperature on the A/C system. For a while it would change over to full heater mode and start blowing hot air when I had it on cold / A/C. This usually happened when I hit a big bump in the road. Did some Google searches and found that it was likely the actuator on the heat / cool door acting up. I replaced that and it got a lot better but didn't totally cure it. Then it started getting really bad and I would have to turn the temp control knob really fast back & forth to get it back on cool again. Replaced the A/C control panel and that fixed it. Actuator $60 and about 20 minutes work. A/C control panel $80 and about 10 minutes of work.

374,000 - damn remanufactured parts - never again. Noticed lower left control arm covered in oily crap. Turns out the damn reman hydro brake booster I installed 60,000 miles ago was leaking! Junk! Bought a brand new Delco unit & installed this weekend. Seems kind of silly to spend that kind of money on a brand new part for a truck I only plan to use another 12-14 months or so but I REALLY hate doing things twice and a 3rd time could put me over the edge. Hopefully good to go for another ~300,000 miles (for someone but probably not me) $371.99 and about 20-30 minutes. Another rebuilt would have only been $117 but I wasn't going there again.

374,000 miles - Left front stereo speaker went out. Was a bear to figure it out but had a speaker wire connector in the door that was making bad contact on the ground side. Cut the connector off and soldered and heat shrinked the wires. Hours to find, minutes to fix. Is that how you say it? Heat shrinked ? Or is it heat shrunk??

385,000 miles - while greasing the front end I discovered the steering damper was broken. It had about 130k miles on it. Replaced it ~$50

385,000 miles - power window regulator failed in RR door. Replaced with new Delco unit - regulator & motor. $75. About 20 minutes of work. Thinking about replacing the other 3 regulators too. I'm sure another one will fail soon enough.

386,000 miles - slack in steering. Ordered new pitman arm and new idler arm (both pieces - upper & lower idler arm). Replaced the idler arm today- about 30 minutes or so (love my new car lift!). Will most likely replace the pitman arm in a week or 3. Got to order a puller for it. About $190 for pitman and both pieces of the idler (Moog). Pretty sure the upper was worn out. I replaced the lower part 130k miles ago but not the upper - so it had the full 386k on it. Anyway, I drove a couple of miles after replacing the idler and it's factory tight again.

389,000 miles: Had the windshield replaced again. Crack right in front of driver's seat. This is the 3rd windshield I've had installed. Apparently they are good for about 80,000 - 90,000 miles or so. This one also cost a lot more than the last 2. Not sure why. Last 2 were about $125 each. This one was $237 and that was after shopping around.

390,000 miles - repaired my dim odometer. Been like this for years and apparently it's a common problem for several model years around this age. Poor cold solder joints where the PRNDL / odometer board solders to the main instrument cluster board. Pulled out the cluster, partially disassembled it and re-soldered the pins at the main board. All of 15-20 minutes start to finish and maybe 15 cents worth of solder. Now I can see my odometer in bright daylight.

392,0000 miles- replaced the 3 rubber brake lines on the rear end and the master cylinder. Had also ordered the 2 rubber lines for the front wheels but they would not fit. Wrong part and apparently a common problem with this year model truck. So I returned those and ordered some Wagners. (the first ones were Delco) and the Wagners fit perfectly..... except they leaked where the steel hard line attached with a flare fitting. Could NOT get them to stop leaking. Anyway, replaced those 3 rear lines and the MC. Bled the entire system till fluid was clear as water - took damn near half a gallon of brake fluid. It's amazing how bad the brakes were but I never really noticed until recently because they just got worse incrementally over the last 16 years. Pretty sure the MC was basically wore out. Replacing the rubber lines and bleeding a system that's never, ever been opened before just doesn't account for the huge difference in before and after. About $200 with all the brake fluid and I will be calling Wagner or someone soon to try and find some front lines that work. Hours of work considering the bleeding and replacing the front lines twice and bleeding some more.

392,000 miles- finally installed the new pitman arm I bought a while back. What a crappy, greasy, dirty job! Took about 2 hours.

393,000 miles - cleaned the "cooling stack". Radiator, condenser, trans cooler, inter-cooler. After 16 years and lots of miles they were damn near stopped up with crud - dead bugs, road oil, dirt, etc. Pulled the grill, headlights, turn signals, radiator, inter-cooler out and sprayed them with a couple of cans of A/C condenser cleaner, let soak and then pressure washed. Took hours - probably like 5-6. Cost - 1 bottle of aniti-freeze and 2 cans of condenser cleaner ~$30.

398,000 miles - rear brake job. Delco OEM pads $85. Turn rotors $43. Took maybe an hour of work but most of the morning seeing as how I had to drop the rotors off and go get them after they were turned.

399,000 miles - power steering fluid leaking from sector shaft seal on steering box. Replaced with Delco reman unit for $186. Also replaced the fan belt and front parking light /turn signal bulbs. One was burnt out and the other lost all it's amber coating - both were factory bulbs. The old steering box was pretty wore out - too many pot holes! Once I had it on the bench I was able to jiggle the sector shaft by hand - apparently why the seal started leaking. Fan belt $38.00. Bulbs $6.50. Haven't driven it yet but hopefully replacing the worn out steering box will make it drive even better than it was.

400,000 miles - been sitting on a set of leaf spring bushings for over a year now. Decided to replace them today. What a dumb idea! Worked for hours and only got the driver's side done. Sucky job! Guess when I get stupid again I'll tackle the other side. Think it was about $80 for all the bushings.

402,000 miles - replaced both heater hoses. Hate those quick release thingies they use now. Coolant, hose, clamps and quick release fittings ~$60 and 2 hours.

407,000 miles. Roaring noise from front-end. The other damn NAPA "super duper" hub / bearing has gone out. Got a Timken from Rockauto for $138.00. About an hour to replace.

420,000 miles_ replaced the headlight and front marker / turn signal assemblies. They were pretty badly “fogged up” from 19 years of life.

$130. Tail lights are next.

422,000 miles – replace the 7 pin trailer connector under the bumper. It was just worn out from plugging / unplugging trailers over the last 19 years. $13.14

422,000 miles - water pump leaking. Replace pump and housing. Ordered parts so got the housing just in case. Didn’t really need it but installed anyway. Bought special 36mm socket, flywheel jam and ($33.22), fan nut removal kit for air hammer ($59.00). $140 for pump & housing.

424,000 – FICM. Went thru a deep water puddle, truck died about a mile later. This sort of thing has happened 3 times in the last 6 months or so. Once when washing spilled diesel from fuel filter change. Once when filling coolant tank (water pump) and another time when going thru a big puddle. Finally figured it out this time. The rubber plug that plugs the hole in the top of the FICM was missing. Guess after 20 years it just dry-rotted and fell out. Wish I had noticed sooner! This time, got LOTS of water in there and the FICM was un-rebuildable. Reman FICM was about $625 when all was said and done. Truck was running 15 minutes after it arrived via UPS.

Oil has been changed every 10K miles
Fuel filter every 10k miles
air filter every 15k miles
tires go about 60k miles /set
~20 mpg highway w/ cruise at 75-77 mph
15-18.5 city mpg
10 mpg towing the boat in my sig (10k lbs) @ 70 mph
14 mpg towing the marsh boat (~4000 lbs) @ 70-75 mph (my friend drove it last trip and I think he was doing 80+ most of the way and we averaged a little less than 13 mpg.)
14 mpg towing the 7' x 16' cargo trailer loaded ~70 mph.

All in all it's been a great truck. I could have done w/o the injector problems though. I look to replace them one more time before I replace the truck.
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was hoping you’d chime in. Thanks for the info
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