[DumbFracHand9]

Yesterday I left the parts store and when I pulled out I got on er a good bit. It felt like I wasnt going anywhere but I don’t think I was spinning. I got out of it, the CEL came on and she went to limp mode. So naturally I turned around and got it scanned. Got the P0087 code. I did some research and found a few things to check. I’ve been loosing prime lately. I was wondering if I should start with a fresh filter as well as rebuild the oem filter head. Also should I change the fuel pressure relief plug with a race plug or would I need tuned for that? I don’t have a lift pump yet. It’s something I’ve wanted but with being a new home owner, a one year old, the wife in school and not working I don’t wanna drop that cash right now. I don’t see any collapses hoses either. Thanks for any and all help.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

If you're losing prime, you're aerating the fuel to the CP3, at the very least.

Fix the leak, then test and move on to the next probable culprit.
Top of the list in chasing the P0087, is the filter head. You can try a rebuild, but not all potential leak areas are serviceable.
Absolute fix is a new filter head assembly; head, filter, sensor, heater, harness, etc.
Two bolts and drop in, easier than replacing just the filter alone.

Also include the two fuel lines to/fro it too. If the head has decayed (leaks), those two lines are tired too.

A restricted filter can and will expose other leak areas.
Benefit of the lift pump is positive pressure vs vacuum, which helps eliminate sucking air from various points and weak/worn lines sucking flat.

Which can be looked at as a band-aid. Find the leak problem 1st.
Rail plug; bottle test will show if the FPRV is leaking by. But again, if it leaks, it's not a consistent thing. Hotter fuel after driving a while can trigger leaks you won't find with cold fuel.

There's 'bout 1/2 a doz things that can contribute to the fuel limp; maybe it's just one thing, or more likely a combo of all of the above. A little leak here, a little leak there, and the CP3 can't keep up. And, it's rarely consistent in testing.

 

[DumbFracHand9]

Thanks hook. Any idea if the dorman filter head any good? When I read your response I went straight to rock auto. Just shy of 90 beans isn’t a bad price at all but I don’t want to waste my time and money if it’s a pile of garbage.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

No experience with dorman. They're probably okay. So many Millions of these have failed over the years, everyone's into making a replacement now.

acDelco 12642623 comes with a new TP3018 filter (top spec filter now)

Racor made the OE head (acDelco) way back when, they still offer it today WITH a new Parker-Racor filter assembled.

PFF4245R2-02

There's a lot of CN crap on the market now, like the ifjf that floods your search on fleabay. The recent fuel filter shootout thread didn't have good things to say about the ifjf filters...so there's that.

You can buy just the head, like you found on rock, but I think the value buy is the complete assembly with a new filter installed, either Racor or acDelco.
'bout $120 delivered (search).

It also comes with a new WIF sensor, installed. A cracked sensor can also be a source of prime loss.
From a shop standpoint, there's less labor involved with just dropping in the new assembly, which is another value point to consider.

When you do install one, and you unhook the keeper on the black/red heater wires, move them so they run on the pass side of the filter, instead of against the engine.

Stock routing of that harness is what your filter wrench hangs on when trying to swap out the filter. Many suppliers sell a spacer block to eliminate the snag, but if you just move the wires' routing, you accomplish the same thing.

 

[DumbFracHand9]

Thanks again for the advice. I’ve read a lot that the wif sensor is well, let’s say pretty much useless in these trucks. Should I get a wif plug and just tie the wires back out of the way or would you not recommend that? I change my filter every 5-10k

 

[beardedlbzguy]

This is a fun code to play with. The way I've been trying to solve mine is just started replacing stuff starting with the least expensive and moving to the next one if that didn't fix it. Bad part is someone else's problem might not be yours so you gotta keep throwing money at it until you get it fixed. Good thing is there is a lot of threads here about this code so most likely you'll find your fix.

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

"useless", usually means they've never seen it trigger.

I have seen the warning pop up. Members have even reported the warning appear, downstream of their high dollar lift pump FWS filter. Pickup an inexpensive compound gauge and an adapter for the bleed port, then you can periodically check psi at idle to determine if you need to change the filter.....instead of just throwing a new one on and guessing.

If it (WIF) fails, it's usually because of installer damage. Lesser filters (as seen in the filter shootout thread) have junk threads that can damage the sensor on install, or improper installation.

Both the filter and the sensor seal with an O-ring. Hand tight per the directions printed on the side is all that's needed to seal (1/4-1/2 turn?), they're not a lug nut.

Oil the O-rings before install, then hand tight. I've found that with oil, the filter O-ring on top will actually snap in place for install.

 

[DumbFracHand9]

I’ve always installed the filter and wif just the way you stated. I’m not a mechanical dummy, just a learning curve in the diesel world lol I’ve got a filter head assembly that you lead me to on the way. I’m gonna do that and change the fuel lines that you also mentioned and see what happens. I’m also going to get one of those gauges. I’ll report back in a couple weeks when I get back home from work

 

[DumbFracHand9]

Alright so I finally got the new fuel filter assembly replaced. It came with a new filter, wif and bleeder screw. I changed the fuel lines out too with fuel line I got from dmax stores website. I doubled clamped both ends on both lines. Everything feels tight. However I’m still getting air. I primed the system 3 or 4 times and every time I started the truck the priming ball got soft. So like I said I’d reprime and try again but I got the same results.. I ordered a race babble but I didn’t install it yet. I’m getting a fass 165 in a week or so, and I’ll be adding a beans sump. Hopefully that solves my issue.

 

[DumbFracHand9]

Just an update to all. I started installing my first lift pump today. I started around 130. I had half a tank of fuel and it’s still draining after 2 5 gallon buckets full. Makes me wish I had a real shop lol. Anyway I’ve got it all hooked up except the sump kit so I’m gonna finish that tomorrow morning. I got blue rtv #2.. how long shoul I let that set up before refilling the tank and hitting the key to see if I did a good job or not? Thanks everyone.

 

[mray]

I wouldn't use RTV on the fuel tank, if you have a legit fuel sump you shouldn't need any sealant.

 

[DumbFracHand9]

I got a beans sump but I’d still like to use some kind of sealant around the sump. Everything I’ve researched said blue rtv number 2. I was going to use the right stuff cause I’ve always had good luck with that sealing but it’s not good with fuel.

 

[DumbFracHand9]

Good news everyone, trucks running better than it ever has before. Finished up the install today in about 30 minutes. Primed up the fass, hit the key and she purred like a kitten. I couldn’t be happier with my 165. Installation was easy, minus getting the factory suction line quick connect off. I fought that for about 30-45 minutes before it just popped apart. Other than that everything went pretty smooth. Anyone who hasn’t gotten a lift pump yet, do it. Anyone that reads this and is on the fence like I was for over a year as to what brand I should go with, go with FASS. I did research for over a year before I finally pulled the trigger. I felt like the price was just so expensive for what it was but honestly, after I’ve installed it, I think the price is cheap. It came with literally everything I needed with the exception of one fitting, one cap, and a hose clamp. The only reason I needed that was because of the sump kit. The lifetime warranty alone is worth it. Not to mention detailed instructions in the palm of my hand. I’ve read good things about FASS customer service, and about their units in general and after installing one on my own, I will be a FASS customer for life. No leaks at all and for the people that need a little extra piece of mind like myself, blue #2 rtv around the sump and tank worked great for me.

 

[beardedlbzguy]

Good news everyone, trucks running better than it ever has before. Finished up the install today in about 30 minutes. Primed up the fass, hit the key and she purred like a kitten. I couldn’t be happier with my 165. Installation was easy, minus getting the factory suction line quick connect off. I fought that for about 30-45 minutes before it just popped apart. Other than that everything went pretty smooth. Anyone who hasn’t gotten a lift pump yet, do it. Anyone that reads this and is on the fence like I was for over a year as to what brand I should go with, go with FASS. I did research for over a year before I finally pulled the trigger. I felt like the price was just so expensive for what it was but honestly, after I’ve installed it, I think the price is cheap. It came with literally everything I needed with the exception of one fitting, one cap, and a hose clamp. The only reason I needed that was because of the sump kit. The lifetime warranty alone is worth it. Not to mention detailed instructions in the palm of my hand. I’ve read good things about FASS customer service, and about their units in general and after installing one on my own, I will be a FASS customer for life. No leaks at all and for the people that need a little extra piece of mind like myself, blue #2 rtv around the sump and tank worked great for me.

Hopefully this fixes your problem. I just ordered my FASS this week and opted for the beans as well. Did you do the return on the sump or run it up into the filler neck?

 

[DumbFracHand9]

Oh buddy it sure has fixed my issues. My truck runs the best that it ever has. I ran the return to the filler neck but the beans I bought off of someone and it was the single nipple so I didn’t have any other option.

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

Oh buddy it sure has fixed my issues. My truck runs the best that it ever has. I ran the return to the filler neck but the beans I bought off of someone and it was the single nipple so I didn’t have any other option.

Once you go Sump, you have a perfectly good and unused Supply inlet on the top of the tank, eliminating the need to molest the fill tube.

 

[DumbFracHand9]

Well what’s already done is done

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

Well what’s already done is done

I know...adding to the DataBase for others researching.

 

[beardedlbzguy]

The beans sump I got with mine today has a return line on it so I can use that and not have to cut anything. Plus I just seen their website that they make a plug for the unused line so I ordered that since I'm waiting on a couple other pieces for my fuel line project. Hopefully itll be on the road by the end of next weekend.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[DumbFracHand9]

How’d you make out @beardedlbzguy