There's one member on here I know of that attempted the kit and had some issues. He ended up having to go with the full valve body kit and have a transmission so install it. What year is your truck? Do you currently have the issue or just trying to be proactive?

 

Thanks, my truck is a 2021 Chevy 2500 HD 6.6 Duramax, with 66K. I am not having issues at this time, I just feel that being proactive may be the way to go.

 

I think Rook would admit those issues were also a little self inflicted as the $800 kit does take some skill. Fabrats did a YouTube video and it worked with others having success as well. I think I’m going to bite the bullet on their full valve body replacement.

 

I am not sure which way to go, parts or full replacement either. I did call NextGen and they said if you’re not having issues that the $800 kits fixes the issue. That said, the replacement valve is for sure an easier install!

 

The only issue I see with this is we are not 100% sure these aftermarket parts are durable either, until we see guys run mileage up on these parts it's almost on the same category as your current unit. Right now you have no issues, what if you pull it apart and install this new part and later on you have an issue? I'm with you guys on trying to prevent an issue before it happens and I would hate to be stranded as well. But there is still a lot of unknowns here on both the GM side and the Next Gen side as well.

 

Yeah, I have had all of the same thoughts as well. Where I ended up getting to is the issue is really mechanical in nature and it’s about preventing leakage and pressure loss which the Nextgen solution specifically addresses and feedback from those that have used their solution has been overwhelmingly positive. Here are some bullets that I also considered:

• Not do anything but as the VB degrades it takes out the rest of the tranny so I don’t want to wait
• Getting a Ford but they still use a CP4 and class action suits against their 10 speed have popped up recently as well
• Getting a Ram but their trans are horrible and the newer Cummins have issues with lifter failures due to poor design
• I love my truck and haven’t had one single problem in 5 years of ownership with only 47k miles and really want to keep it

I‘ve thought through this for the past 6-9 months and have finally got to a point where I decided to do something and not wait but I can understand why others would not choose this option as well so it‘s all about what works for you. I’m out of warranty which makes the decision easier for me as well.

 

The first thing you should ask any aftermarket vendor is WHAT IS YOUR WARRANTY!

 

Next Gen is LIFETIME!

 

Note to all 10L1000 transmissions owners... more people on repair list, as of today, but likely a different configuration than on the Duramax vehicle ... GM Recall on Sedans w/10 Speed Transmissions

 

Yep if you browse the others forums it's a shit show.

 

I replaced mine last week, it took about 2 hours. Tier one transmission, I receive updated valve body and trans oil pump. It took 10 days for it to arrive. I also got the PPE oil pan and new oil cooler. Runs great, normal sign driving, temp gets about 120.

 

I did that PPE pan when I did the filter - no cooler - about 3000 miles ago and I run about 145 in all unloaded (not towing) conditions and that's up to 90 ambient temps. I have been watching it really closely because I was curious about the change to the larger pan.

 

Was told today my 2023 3500HD DRW Flat bed farm truck that update recall was just a reprogram . Call bullshit . My wife’s High Country 3500 Single rear wheel did not last 12000 miles. Which she nearly pulls no weight. Both bought brand new . Both 4*4

 

I didn't realize this until I read the link above but the software change is just to prematurely detect the lockup which yeah, is BS. Nice to know but doesn't fix anything that could happen.

 

Did you have to take it to dealer to program the TCM to the new valve body? I'm told sometimes they will work fine and others need the TCM matched to the valve body number by gm programmer. I'm getting ready to do mine and I don't want to have to go to dealer.

 

@jclare9194 did you have to take it into the dealership? I have a sun coast valve body but my dealership is garage so not wanting to mess with it if I have to deal with them.

 

I've done the NextGen Kit on my 2020....I'm in Australia, and although I had not had any issues, I didn't want the hassle of getting stuck out in BumF#ck somewhere on the side of the road. I was due for Tranny Oil change, so it made sense to do the Kit at the same time. I bought not only the Project Carbon Kit, but also, (at the recommendation of the NextGen design Engineer Nate), the O-Ringed Solenoid valves / spools....and that was a big mistake. The O-Ring valves are too tight on the Solenoids, and Truck had no Drive, reverse, etc.
With some issues getting thru to NextGen, (Will and Nate.....2am my time), I eventually got to talk to Nate and he knew straight away that the O-Ringed Solenoid valves were the issue, so removed Valve Body for a second time, and all good.
So now I have the basic NextGen Project Carbon Kit in, plus Oil change, and the Truck shifts nice and crisp....I would say probably better than when new, (but that was a while ago). Time will tell re the Longevity, but recommendation is Oil changes every 25K miles with the NextGen Kit in, versus the 45 - 50K intervals from GM

 

After loosing the VB in my 24' 2500HD, I am not taking chances with my new 25' 3500HD. I bought the full NG kit including shift valves and did notice the new shift solenoid spools are no longer o-ringed as you mentioned so it looks like there has been a revision. Any other words of wisdom or gotchas before I do the upgrade?

 

Wait...if I put in this 'fix' VB kit I now have to change my transmission fluid twice as often?

 

Piper, that's NextGen's recommendation, (see snip from NextGen website below), and yeah....you'll be an expert
in no time.!
And of course GM made the 10L1000 Tranny Oil change "incredibly simple" for us...!!

I'II probably go out to 40K miles after the next change, as Truck does not do any regular genuine real work.

 

I am curious, how many vehicle builds/models did GM stick this Allison/TurboHydromatic 10 speed automatic transmission into since 2020? Are these transmissions also in the Cadillac CV-5 Blackwing vehicles too? Do all of GM's 10 speed automatic transmissions have or will have this valve-body "lock-up" problem? I can't be the first person to ask this question?

 

My 2023 is in the shop for a new valve body, GM hasn't disclosed how many vehicles are affected. I just learned the part is on back order.. Not to happy

 

🤦

 

My 2024 3500 with just under 40k went to the dealer for valve body replacement. National back order. Been almost 4 weeks. Called gm they have no idea how long it will take. 7 new trucks been the shop over 2 months in front of my truck at the same dealership!!!

 

That’s rough. I’d spend the money on an aftermarket VB before I waited months for the same bad design to be reinstalled.

Hope it gets cleared up soon.

 

People do your homework. This is not a long term fix. Money not well spent.

 

The VB kit or the Whole VB replacement? Would be to also get some info in this arena on success or lack there of. Must be some legit fix out there.

 

Are you referring to Suncoast valve body or the next gen kit to upgrade the valve body?

 

Next Gen.

 

I won't have my truck long enough to worry about it. I buy new every 2 years or so. I was actually going to wait until the 2500 redesign comes out or look at the new RAMs with the upgraded Cummins that are getting awesome reviews. Definitely not a Ford!

 

Are you doing the install or getting a shop involved? Would love to hear your feedback about the experience regardless

I am having a shop do the install. I have nowhere to work on it and im not dropping the pan and valve body on the transmission on my back in an RV park...... Its being installed as we speak and my guy says its going good so far. He said he didn't see anything too alarming on the disassembly other than the separator plate that he said looks like it was warping and some of the bolt heads on the bolts that hold the valve body in looked slightly rounded off, he could tell someone has been in there before..... He just got the VB back together and in the truck. I should know how it is really soon.

Hi DRNO_CA and jb882.
No words of wisdom, except for take pics, mark everything as you remove, clean Valve Body properly, Lube up the spool valves with ULV as you re-install and "work them" to make sure they move freely.
I had the Truck up on 4 stands, and did the job in my Shed....and I've never pulled a Valve Body before, (Millwright).
IF the Solenoid spools have any O-Rings on them I would advise NOT to install. My set had 3 O-Rings on each Solenoid spool and that was a disaster. NextGen knew immediately what my problem was, (but I am disappointed that they did not reach out and let me know that there would potentially be an issue, when they actually knew there would be), and also have since NOT responded when I asked for a refund on the Solenoid spools, (offer from Nate....Owner.?, when I actually got to talk to Will and Nate at 2am my time).
I have a mate over here that got a new Kit which had 1 x O-Ring on each Solenoid valve spool, (versus my 3 x O-Rings per spool), and he is having issues, and from what he has told me, (hard Shifting, Flared Shifts), I will expect that this will cause some wear issues in the actual Box further down the track....my advice is to re-install his original non O-Ringed Solenoid valve spools.
2000 miles since NextGen Kit install and my Tranny has been good, no issues.....but I don't Tow hard. I agree with DuramaxDan, the Valve Body will wear, but I think a lot more reliable re Oil passing the spools, (Lower Valve Body spools), and Tranny potentially grabbing 2 gears with the O-Ringed Lower Valve Body NextGen Kit installed....buys time until a genuine fix is available.
jb882 if not too late, can you Post pics of the latest NextGen Solenoid spool's....as it sounds like there is no O-Rings at all on them from your Post.

OhioAussie

Unfortunately i never even thought to take pictures of it. Although from what i saw in the box my kit looks like the picture below. The optional shift valves( which appear to be standard now) do not have o-rings on them. Only the limit and regulator valves have o-rings on them.

 

I am having a shop do the install. I have nowhere to work on it and im not dropping the pan and valve body on the transmission on my back in an RV park...... Its being installed as we speak and my guy says its going good so far. He said he didn't see anything too alarming on the disassembly other than the separator plate that he said looks like it was warping and some of the bolt heads on the bolts that hold the valve body in looked slightly rounded off, he could tell someone has been in there before..... He just got the VB back together and in the truck. I should know how it is really soon.



Unfortunately i never even thought to take pictures of it. Although from what i saw in the box my kit looks like the picture below. The optional shift valves( which appear to be standard now) do not have o-rings on them. Only the limit and regulator valves have o-rings on them.

How much is the labor to do it?

 

How much is the labor to do it?

Not sure yet, its still not done. The test drive did not go very well. The truck is banging gears bad on the 3-4 and 4-5 shifts and on the 2-3 shits its flaring really bad and feels like its slipping. Something is amiss and we need to call nextgen tomorrow morning to see what they have to say. All of the valves are nice and free and everything is torqued to spec and no codes from the TCM. So far im not impressed.....

Separator plate already warping isn't a good sign, how many miles are you at on the new valve body so far?

11k. This is why i wanted to get ahead of it but read above.... im having regrets right now.

 

Not sure yet, its still not done. The test drive did not go very well. The truck is banging gears bad on the 3-4 and 4-5 shifts and on the 2-3 shits its flaring really bad and feels like its slipping. Something is amiss and we need to call nextgen tomorrow morning to see what they have to say. All of the valves are nice and free and everything is torqued to spec and no codes from the TCM. So far im not impressed.....

11k. This is why i wanted to get ahead of it but read above.... im having regrets right now.

jb882....your issue sounds very alike to what another guy over here, (Australia), is seeing with his Kit installed....which did include 1 x O-Ring on each of the Solenoid spools, (versus my Kit which I purchased in Dec,...plus Solenoid spools, which had 3 O-Rings...total disaster, no Drive whatsoever)

 

I looked at the solenoid spools before the kit went in, i just never took any pictures. There are no o-rings on them and they all slide smoothly in the bore.

I did call next gen this morning and he thinks its fluid level. I guess i'm the third of fourth person to have these issues that also installed a Banks transmission pan at the same time. They are not sure what is going on but it looks like on the banks pan when you get the fluid level right its still a little low so they want me to add more fluid and see if that changes anything before we dig into it more.

 

jb882, thanks for the confirmation of no O-Rings. It will be interesting to learn if Low Oil level is the problem, but that sounds a little strange.....as you would have to assume that Banks have engineered that Pan to have the top of the Oil level check standpipe, (wish we had a Dipstick..!), at the same elevation down from the Valve Body / Tranny as OE Pan.
It is a PITA process to check, top up, check again, etc.
Appreciate the feedback if this actually is the issue jb8882

 

There was another member on here who was one of the first to jump on the next gen kit and he to had issues. He had to have the truck towed to a shop and in the end after back and forth with nextgen ended up having to use there complete valve body if I remember correctly.

 

Alloutdrs, yeah I read his Post....did the job himself but had issues, and blamed himself. He ended up sending the
Valve Body to NextGen for their wizardy, and was told he had a crack in his original Valve Body, which is apparently
not unheard of.
His Post, (and questioning himself if he had re-assembled something incorrectly), prompted me to take a lot more care when I pulled my Valve body apart, (twice.!).

 

I’m wondering if the full VB is the way to go. If not doing the install yourself, the labor is cheap in comparison, and if it gives some issues you have the previous one to toss back in there as you regroup and figure it out. Hold onto that for a few hundred miles to be sure all is good.

I got a quote from a diesel performance shop nearby and they quoted $350 to install and add fluids. Doing the kit is cheaper initially, but time consuming to get right and lots of room for error. Haven’t pulled the trigger as I’m waiting to hear feedback from someone who’s done the same.

 

I’m wondering if the full VB is the way to go. If not doing the install yourself, the labor is cheap in comparison, and if it gives some issues you have the previous one to toss back in there as you regroup and figure it out. Hold onto that for a few hundred miles to be sure all is good.

I got a quote from a diesel performance shop nearby and they quoted $350 to install and add fluids. Doing the kit is cheaper initially, but time consuming to get right and lots of room for error. Haven’t pulled the trigger as I’m waiting to hear feedback from someone who’s done the same.

Based of my experience so far i would say so.

My truck is still not back and right yet, hopefully i will have some answers today from Next Gen on next steps. Basically where im at is the truck still wont shift properly. After the debacle with the relearn it literally would not even try to command the transmission to shift into reverse or drive. The suggestion from GM was to reprogram the TCM which they tried to do remotely using a special tool and it would not reprogram. From there my mechanic had a dealer he works with very closely do it using their in house tool and they were able to do it successfully. Apparently the software sucks as bad as the hardware, they mentioned it had been reprogrammed 7 times in the Feb-March timeframe which correlates to when my VB was replaced. The dealer's transmisison guy thinks there is a valve stuck in the VB which probably became stuck after we drove it and put the transmisison thru a heat cycle. He is pretty familar with the Next Gen kit and thinks its built well but can be a tough install based off the bad tolerences on the bores from GM and there is no magic solution for it other than machining. His suggestion is a full valve body at this point which still needs to be discussed with Next Gen, hopefully i will have more answers on next steps this afternoon.

Right now im not super thrilled, i feel like i should have just gone for the full VB in the first place and saved myself a lot of frustration and probably a fair bit of money based of the labor already put into this.

 

Sonnax has a kit that fixes the low limit valve wear issue which currently is the primary issue with the rear wheel lockup issue.

And it does not involve orings. Steel sleeve with a new hard coat anodized valve. Whoever thought orings would work is a retard and I won't be buying anything from them. Gonna fall apart and plug all kinds of stuff up.

I'll be putting one in soon and take some photos and make a post.

 

Sonnax makes some quality stuff, this low limit valve kit looks like a great solution and should be less costly and easier to install. When the next Gen kits first started getting talked about other members had expressed there concern with o rings being used as well and how long they would last.

Feed Limit Low Valve Kit – 105740-54K

Restore proper valve function & prevent future wear in GM 10L1000, Gen. 2 10L60, 10L80, 10L90 transmissions with Sonnax feed limit low valve kit 105740-54K.

www.sonnax.com