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U otta try a survival duraburb down the road ��
 

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That bumper! CrazyeyeHuh?!:eek:wned:
 

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Fun project. I have a 78 c30 that I did a 4x4 swap and a 93 5.9 Cummins with an Allison 6 speed transmission. The engine and tranny are completely stock. The 6 speed helps a lot for the power loss. I'm about to upgrade mine to a hx35 turbo with 40 over injectors 3500rpm spring 60# valve springs and headstuds. I'll post a picture if you don't mind. Figure I would ask first.
 

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Only one problem with this project... is has to do with a DODGE! JK nice truck look forward to reading about it.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Def. do a snorkel kit. There's no worse feeling getting something the way you want it and a little bit of water to fuck it up.
Snorkel kit???
Someone even make such a thing?
I created a custom one for a SAS extreme Tundra I built once, but honestly with 5" piping, it would be a challenge...
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Subd
U otta try a survival duraburb down the road ��
Thought about it
But
I have the LML truck which is totally electronic and common rail.
I want something that doesn't need electronics
A 12 valve automatic is close. A 12 valve stick would have been perfect
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Fun project. I have a 78 c30 that I did a 4x4 swap and a 93 5.9 Cummins with an Allison 6 speed transmission. The engine and tranny are completely stock. The 6 speed helps a lot for the power loss. I'm about to upgrade mine to a hx35 turbo with 40 over injectors 3500rpm spring 60# valve springs and headstuds. I'll post a picture if you don't mind. Figure I would ask first.
Sure post a pic
Contribute as you see fit
If you have read any of the 7,000 + posts on my other build thread, you will soon realize I am not in control, only loosely associated with what's going on!
I always encourage the healthy exchange of ideas.
For a base motor build I will be looking for a reasonable combo like that.
 

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Six pages of posts in less than 24 hrs... Impressive!!!

This is a really clean truck, one that has not been hacked up and modified; with the exception of the cattle-guard grille.

There is only one rust spot that is mentionable but it should be a fairly easy fix. The rest is all surface rust where the paint has failed, not structural and easily remedied if addressed now.

I saw these guys at the NSRA show, their rust dissolver product was pretty impressive and may be a good option. It can be purchased off of Amazon:

3X Chemistry

The wiring coming off of the battery is really bad and needs addressing immediately. Direct lines to un-fused, switched, aftermarket lights with no relays... Unprotected, crimp-type terminals... random wires in pinch-prone areas... You get the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Six pages of posts in less than 24 hrs... Impressive!!!

This is a really clean truck, one that has not been hacked up and modified; with the exception of the cattle-guard grille.

There is only one rust spot that is mentionable but it should be a fairly easy fix. The rest is all surface rust where the paint has failed, not structural and easily remedied if addressed now.

I saw these guys at the NSRA show, their rust dissolver product was pretty impressive and may be a good option. It can be purchased off of Amazon:

3X Chemistry

The wiring coming off of the battery is really bad and needs addressing immediately. Direct lines to un-fused, switched, aftermarket lights with no relays... Unprotected, crimp-type terminals... random wires in pinch-prone areas... You get the picture.
I just looked at the vids on those 3X chemistry rust taker-care-of product line.
As usual, my friend, you're hitting on all 8 cylinders!

For those that don't yet know Mr. Precise here, I did a write-up on him...Funny!
Anyone not see it?

Anyway Duane, I'm off to buy some of that stuff. I think it would make a cool couple of hour project using that stuff on the roof and hood before I have a convertible!:thumb
 

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That a long box? And since you want a manual couldn't you swap it out with one down the road a bit once you "finish" this truck and are past SAS on the DMax?
 

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My 78 chevy
 

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It's got an NP205 t-case.

Personally I'd go with an HE351 off an 04.5-07. Or a 62/65.

I wouldn't call the VE inferior; there's nothing wrong with them, per se, it's absolutely dead reliable. It's not a power maker, but is just fine for the 400hp range.

Probably cheaper than building the 47RE(I think that was the first gen auto, right?) anyway.
No, A518. Non-lockup OD. I believe the 91.5 intercooled is when they went OD, before that was 727, non-OD. 47RH for 94-95, then 47RE from 96 to early 03.
 

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Small suggestion if you will have it. I am sure I will "pipe up" more as you go along.

Regarding the brakes, I think going from hard line to a soft rubber brake hose is inadequate. Replacing the rubber brake lines with stainless steel braided lines will last much longer. Also you never know what kind of situation you will find yourself involved in. Having just that extra bit of strength in the line might keep a sagebrush or something similar from tearing your line apart.

Also since you have already commissioned the replacement of the lines with stock rubber ones you will be able to keep those as spare parts. If you go with braided lines.

I'm sure you will build some type of box to keep the elements from getting to your parts/tools (if you do not use a topper). One thing I have found, considering your background I am sure you are fully aware, is surplus military grade ammo cans do wonders. That is what my Jeep sports in the back to keep spare belts, U-joints, hoses, and tools protected.

SENT THROUGH THE BUNG HOLE OF GOOSE'S DURAMAX
 

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Def. do a snorkel kit. There's no worse feeling getting something the way you want it and a little bit of water to fuck it up.
^speaking from experience Sorryz!
 

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Lol, yep, its amazing what 4 ft of water will do for a drivetrain, mainly the motor.
I'd build a snorkel kit for a survival rig, you never know when you need to cross a high creek or river, and I'm pretty sure it still floods after doomsday.
 

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well i got the 94 dodge dana 60 mixed up with the 93. you cant do a ford caliper swap but i felt bad and did some research and you can do a chevy hydroboost setup and some other brake upgrades from a chevy to make it stand on end when you tap the pedal.

here is a link for info and pricen etc
Hydro boost units, who's got 'em? - Page 2 - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

and here is for your crossover steering you will want to do
Anyone have crossover steering with 0-2'' lift? - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

and to top it off this page will be able to set you up with any questions and how to build this truck bulletproof and cheap.
FAQ/Knowledge base "How do I...?" Look here first! A.K.A. "The Sticky" - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums
 

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It's got an NP205 t-case.

Personally I'd go with an HE351 off an 04.5-07. Or a 62/65.

I wouldn't call the VE inferior; there's nothing wrong with them, per se, it's absolutely dead reliable. It's not a power maker, but is just fine for the 400hp range.



No, A518. Non-lockup OD. I believe the 91.5 intercooled is when they went OD, before that was 727, non-OD. 47RH for 94-95, then 47RE from 96 to early 03.


i thought about mentioning that but he will have to buy the wire adapter for the vanes or make a manual one but he was looking for reliable and if the vanes clog up or such its one more thing he will have to worry about. they are cheap and tons available, but another electrical part he doesn't want.

which is why i mentioned the hx35/40 or just a hx35, or a hx40 with a 6fin inducer. good spool for towing and good for top end as well.
 
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