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Discussion Starter #1
So right off the bat I've been a gasser my whole life and this is my first diesel truck, EVER! 2018 2500HD 4x4. I plan on keeping this one forever; if it ever dies I'll either rebuild or use her as lawn art! With that said, my goal is to do all I can to keep things running as they should. I've been researching and researching and researching for 2 weeks solid; trying to be as informed as I can be. My first fuel fill up was at 380miles +/-, I used Chevron #2 with a bottle of Stanadyne performance formula fuel treatment and will continue to do so as long as I believe it's a quality product and beneficial.

I'm going to do my first oil/filter change this weekend, truck will probably be sitting at around 800-1000miles. Going to use the conventional Rotella T4 15w40 for the first couple oil changes and then decide if I want to stay with it or move to a semi synthetic or full synthetic. It's hot as Haiti in Las Vegas right now so I'm comfortable running the 15w40. We do get some cold nights (relative) in and around 32 degrees so a 5w40 might make more sense during winter.

Last piece to the puzzle is the oil filter. I'm looking at the K&N HP-3003. I like K&N filters not because of the name but because the way they build their filters makes sense to me. I interpret that as a quality choice. I'm no expert but I believe K&N filters flow well by volume and do a fantastic job filtering debris with quite a bit of surface area with an even pleat pattern. I believe the filter media is called cellulose and that is good for both volume and filtering.

If I'm making any glairing mistakes please feel free to set me straight!
 

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Welcome!

I personally use Mobile One M1-303 filter, I think KandN is just overpriced and over hyped, and Rotella T-6 synthetic oil which only comes 5w-40. I don’t think it matters what you change to as a first change.

Another thing to consider is a quality fuel filter. Fuel is the literal lifeblood of diesels. Any contaminants (water especially) can be catastrophic. I keep Standyne performance mix in the truck and use 8oz every fill up.

I don’t know too much about 2018 issues but I think you have a solid truck and will enjoy it for many years to come.
 
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I would stay away from a full syn for the first oil change or two. Reason being is that during break-in a synthetic oil is too 'slippery' and will not allow for proper seating of rings etc. GM diesel mechanic suggested to run 15-40 for the first 10,000 km (6,000 miles) to break in the engine. This made send to me because when I rebuilt a motor for my T/A, I started it and ran it for the first year or two on Mobil 1 5-30. I have Chrome Moly rings and they would NOT seat and I was burning oil at the rate of ~1 quart/ 250 miles - yikes, not good with a new motor...I ran it one season (about 1000 miles) with 10-30 conventional and problem has gone away. I am now back to a 5-30 in the bird with no oil consumption issues. Currently I have ~15000 km (9000miles) on the 2017 L5P and it is on oil change #3 (#1 at 1600km, #2 at 5500km, #3 at 11,000km) and has been running a conventional 15-40. I will be switching over to a 5-40 prior to this winter (last winter was a chilly one here so with 15-40 in it, it spend a great deal of time plugged in...). Filter has only been AC Delco...
 

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Where you are I wouldn't worry about changing to a lighter oil in the winter. Up here I think most stay 15-40 year round.
I don't drive mine in the winter, but if I did up here it would get changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They dont build anything. The K&N is built by Champion Labs, who build most of the "private label " filters.

Private Brands - Champion Laboratories Inc. : Champion Laboratories Inc.

The Mobil 1 303 flat out works. No need to look beyond that.
Thank you! I think I remember years back (bear with me) reading and maybe even watching some oil filter guts videos showing the Mobil1 and K&N filter being the exact same filter with the obvious difference being the K&N having the 1" Hex Head on it and respective paint jobs. Anyway, I usually go with whatever is the cheapest at the time between the two as I consider them the same filter.....although things have probably changed over the years and that may no longer be the case.....long story short......I need to get myself back in the mix!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would stay away from a full syn for the first oil change or two. Reason being is that during break-in a synthetic oil is too 'slippery' and will not allow for proper seating of rings etc. GM diesel mechanic suggested to run 15-40 for the first 10,000 km (6,000 miles) to break in the engine. This made send to me because when I rebuilt a motor for my T/A, I started it and ran it for the first year or two on Mobil 1 5-30. I have Chrome Moly rings and they would NOT seat and I was burning oil at the rate of ~1 quart/ 250 miles - yikes, not good with a new motor...I ran it one season (about 1000 miles) with 10-30 conventional and problem has gone away. I am now back to a 5-30 in the bird with no oil consumption issues. Currently I have ~15000 km (9000miles) on the 2017 L5P and it is on oil change #3 (#1 at 1600km, #2 at 5500km, #3 at 11,000km) and has been running a conventional 15-40. I will be switching over to a 5-40 prior to this winter (last winter was a chilly one here so with 15-40 in it, it spend a great deal of time plugged in...). Filter has only been AC Delco...
Thanks 1Blue78, I think that's about my plan of attack as far as initial oil change intervals go. Maybe a synthetic blend around 6-8k depending on what my "actual" oil change schedule ends up being!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Where you are I wouldn't worry about changing to a lighter oil in the winter. Up here I think most stay 15-40 year round.
I don't drive mine in the winter, but if I did up here it would get changed.
Thank you! I'll keep that in mind!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK first oil/filter change is in the books, thanks for all the advices, 1,002 miles on the odometer, 1x Mobil 1 oil filter(Walmart), 10x quarts Rotella T4 15w40(Sams Club). The factory oil filter was indeed on there tight! lol, I used two types of oil filter wrenches, at the same time, in the hopes of putting more torque to it...….it was not budging by hand or by using only one wrench:

Here's the combo I used:



once I had both wrenches on there at the same time and applied 2 types of force, the AC Delco yielded! I used aluminum foil to keep the oil off all the metal chassis bits and randomly checked bolts for tightness.

Some observations: 1. after 1k miles the factory fill oil looked and smelled very good; am I the only one that smells their motor oil? Also had a green tint to it. 2. My long corrugated oil funnel worked just fine but I may go ahead and invest in an offset one just so I'm not so close to the underside of the hood next time. 3. I wasn't really able to pre-fill my oil filter with oil (which I'm used to doing) so that was something a little different/no oil pressure issues noted. 4. Oil dipstick shows oil exactly at the halfway point with the 10 quart fill.

So that's about it, next scheduled oil/filter change 3k! same/same
 

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Why 3K, does the manual recommend that?
 

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I always smell my oil. Trans too.

Are you doing one more “early” change to make sure or are you planning on always going 3k? Diesels go 6-7k miles between oil changes. Sometimes 10k.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Why 3K, does the manual recommend that?
Manual definitely doesn't say 1k or 3k. Plan is to do one more conventional motor oil change at 3k, then switch to semi synthetic at 6k, then either stay with the semi synthetic or switch to full synthetic at 10k, then oil changes every 5k after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I always smell my oil. Trans too.

Are you doing one more “early” change to make sure or are you planning on always going 3k? Diesels go 6-7k miles between oil changes. Sometimes 10k.
my plan is to do 5k oil changes for the life of the truck starting with the 10k oil/filter change.
 

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At 1k oil changes you are ok, however LEAVE THE FILTER. Its hard to grasp the concept, but a used filter is more efficient at filtering than a new one. New filter has big openings as the filter gets used up, these openings get clogged, thus making the filter capture smaller and smaller particles until its completely plugged. I heard the Conroe Metro district was blowing engines in their buses b/c they were changing the oil and filters at much less than the recommended interval. Since the filter was not able to get partially plugged and was letting large crud through, it was wiping out the bearings.

Remember with a diesel, its typically a much slower turning engine and operates at lower temps due to eat burn instead of the bang in the cylinders. Book calls for 7.5k-10k oil changes, GM changes it for free at 20% (about 6k).

I think the DMax comes with full synthetic from the factory and thats what the dealership puts in them when they do an oil change. However I would stick with a conventional oil for the first 20-30k to let everything break-in and seat properly (thats what I read back in 04 with my first DMax before swapping to AMSOIL). At 160k+ miles the rings were seated, but not worn completely flat across the sealing surface. Wish I had a picture of the face of the ring when I pulled them. End gaps were close to the minimum meaning little wear.
 

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I would stay away from a full syn for the first oil change or two. Reason being is that during break-in a synthetic oil is too 'slippery' and will not allow for proper seating of rings etc. GM diesel mechanic suggested to run 15-40 for the first 10,000 km (6,000 miles) to break in the engine. This made send to me because when I rebuilt a motor for my T/A, I started it and ran it for the first year or two on Mobil 1 5-30. I have Chrome Moly rings and they would NOT seat and I was burning oil at the rate of ~1 quart/ 250 miles - yikes, not good with a new motor...I ran it one season (about 1000 miles) with 10-30 conventional and problem has gone away. I am now back to a 5-30 in the bird with no oil consumption issues. Currently I have ~15000 km (9000miles) on the 2017 L5P and it is on oil change #3 (#1 at 1600km, #2 at 5500km, #3 at 11,000km) and has been running a conventional 15-40. I will be switching over to a 5-40 prior to this winter (last winter was a chilly one here so with 15-40 in it, it spend a great deal of time plugged in...). Filter has only been AC Delco...
I disagree with you about the use now days about full synthetic oils in new engines. A couple of decades back, what you said was correct. Run it 10K on Dino oil to break it in was the way it was. But with modern CNC manufacturing tech and motor oils, you can use synthetic oils on you first oil change. Over a decade ago GM's Corvette and SS gas engines were factory filled with Mobil 1. Any gas GM under warranty better have GM spec oil in it which is a semi-synthetic or better. With top of the line oil filters now days claiming 20K miles of protection, advanced synthetic oils, I do my first change around 3K miles, the next at 10K miles and then at every 10 K after that. I do not add oil between changes and I can see the hash marks on the dipstick at 10K. I have been doing this for a least a decade with no issues other than an LML that developed an oil pan leak at 38K miles.
 

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If your in very cold climates 5w40 is what most use, average is 15w40 if it's very cold and your using 15w40 it's best to start it up and let the engine warm up to at least 100 degrees before driving off.
By the ECT gauge when the needle just starts to rise off the 160 mark the temp is usually around 106.
Some will run 5w40 in the winter and 15w40 in the summer, it's your choice.
I like using a 15w40 synthetic blend, just because.

I'll throw in the oil filter wrenches shown on the first page IMO is not the best choice, very outdated and barbaric.
Something like the one pictured below works much better less chance of crushing the oil filter making a mess before you get it off IMO.
 

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I should take a pic of what one of mine looks like...that style you posted a pic of.

The handle is no longer straight like yours pictured. It's bent out at a 90* from center. :teehee
Dang fuel filter just would not give in. spar;
 

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That particular one does ratchet/swivel 90* then you wouldn’t have to overpower it and bend it. :surprise:
I really don’t care for that swivel, but in some instances it does come in handy.
I still have a couple straight handle ones, when I have room.
 

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No. The handle is bent just beyond the pin to swivel.
 

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