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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I recently purchased a 2001 2500hd with a blown passenger side head gasket. The owner was the original owner and definitely not a car guy however it was always serviced at the dealer it’s whole life. Unfortunately what I found out after tearing really into it, it seems that he had driven the truck for a while until the truck really started to show major signs as in leaking and overheated. Back in may the previous owner took the truck to the dealer because it gave him a loss of power warning, the dealer replaced a pedal sensor, serpentine belt, changed fluids and sent him on his merry way.

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when I removed the passenger side valve cover I noticed that the truck had been sitting and the contamination of water to oil was pretty bad

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the heads are currently off of the car and from what I can see the walls and pistons look to be in good condition. My current fear is if the block internals may have suffered from the rust as well? The truck ran fine and moved under its own power just to get it into the driveway so I can only assume that the bottom end should be good?

I will load a cold start up video and post below.

my question to you gentlemen would be should I service the heads? Deck them and hot tank them buy a gasket kit, bosh injectors and re assemble it? Or, if there is concern about the bottom end pull the engine and find a reman motor? Truck currently has 330k miles all stock all original.
Thanks for reading.
 

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2007 GMC Sierra LBZ
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If the rods and all look as bad as the valve train i would be a little Leary. Looks like it had a good bit of moisture in the oil already.
 

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What's the inside of the oil fill spout cap look like? Clean or coated in white frothy goo? If it's goo, it would indicate moisture in the oil and possible worn bottom end bearings. If it were me, and you're doing the heads, pull the motor and rebuild and get another 300k+ miles out of it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What's the inside of the oil fill spout cap look like? Clean or coated in white frothy goo? If it's goo, it would indicate moisture in the oil and possible worn bottom end bearings. If it were me, and you're doing the heads, pull the motor and rebuild and get another 300k+ miles out of it..
its frothy, I’m gonna pull the oil pan and see what the bottom end looks like. These machine shops around here want $4500 just for machining labor I think that’s nuts since I can get a reman motor for that much
 

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2011 Crew Cab 4x4 dullie LTZ
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I would almost want to replace the rings since you are removing the pan. You are 90% there at that point. Not much more work and then you could replace the rods and main bearings at the same time. The only bad part is that you have to replace all hardware it think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would almost want to replace the rings since you are removing the pan. You are 90% there at that point. Not much more work and then you could replace the rods and main bearings at the same time. The only bad part is that you have to replace all hardware it think.
At this point I am really debating on just buying a reman motor new Bosch injectors and rebuilding the turbo. I feel as if those would be the main components and this way I’ll basically be worry free for a long time
 

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Where are you finding reman motor? That might be the way to go. Install SAC injectors and you're good to go for a long time. These trucks are appreciating in value now.
 
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