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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, new to this forum.

First-time diesel owner here!

Been lurking and reading these forums for a couple of months now and getting desperate here.

I bought a 2005 Duramax that was wrecked in the front from an accident back in April 2019. It had all mods on it except the lift pump which I added. I don't know if it was tuned previously and have 0 history on the truck.

So the problem I have is that the truck doesn't want to start on its own. It will crank but won't start. As I mentioned, it has a lift pump and the whole primer housing has been deleted and bypassed. The truck doesn't have any leaks at all. No codes except for a P0045 boost code which is a boost leak.

When I go to try to crank the truck my edge shows desired rail pressure to be 6.1 kpsi and the actual is 0.8 KPSI.
I have installed new batteries.

The truck will start right away with silicone spray and runs and drives perfect. Balance rates are within normal specs.

I know the truck had to be running before the accident since I found some service history on carfax at a chevy dealer a couple of months before the truck was wrecked.

PLEASE HELP! What should be my next step?
 

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A thought,, maybe the lift pump is not getting power when cranking,,,, Lots of circuits shut down to feed the starter all the power it can during cranking.

Have you tried hot wiring the lift pump direct to the battery just to see if that helps? Was the wreck a front end wreck? the CP3 and FPR all undamaged?
 

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Thanks for the reply Marv
Yes I did try wiring straight to battery and it does build pressure.
Only strange thing is that the lift pump is always running, never shutting off after building pressure?
My brother has a Fass and when it builds pressure it shuts off.
Not sure if that could be a reason?

The damage was pretty light, the furthest damage was the intercooler. Otherwise the engine was untouched.

Anything else you can think off?

Thanks!
 

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Another question, if the FPR was bad, would there be any codes at all? I didn’t think to change it yet?

Anyway I can test to see if it works with my edge?
 

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I'm FAR from expert on these things, learning as I go myself. I've been twisting wrenches on small block chevys for 50 years and just based on what I'd suspect there..... Lift pump may be pushing the relief open, or FPR is toast. <shrugs,, just offering thoughts>

As far as I know the code would be... actual fuel pressure doesnt match requested PSI,, or something like that. which you already know is issue at start. But how is requested and actual when it is running?

I can tel you my LLY had a leak at the filter housing and just at random times it would just not start. I suspect fuel siphoned back to the tank and the CP3 got a big gulp of air. After I primed it,, it would be fine for days / weeks or months then one day,, no start till I primed it.

Not sure what issues may come up by deleting the filter head / water separator sensor. Maybe some of the nore expert guys will chime in as they have time.
 

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Hey guys,

Just in case someone was curious.

I ended up taking off all the injectors and getting them bench tested. They all failed!
I bought bosch reman injectors from a local certified bosch shop and ran the truck ran like a dream for a whole minute.
After getting all the injectors torqued down, cylinder 6 started leaking coolant out the injector bore. Using a baroscope, I located a crack in the injector bore by the seat. Ordered a reman head from California. After installing it, the head started leaking out the injector bores of 6 and 8! Turns out some machine shops take shortcuts and don't pressure test the head( cracks in both injector bores)
So I just ordered a brand new OEM head and will be installing it and putting it all back together next week.

Having the worst luck with this truck. Hopefully this is the end of this issue.
 

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I've heard too many horror stories like this with the rebuilt injectors. I have been 'saving my pennies' and decided it's just not worth it to mes with rebuilt injectors,, NEW BOSCH or don't waste you time and $s .
Funny part about that is I just bought a used set of heads from a local to have refurbished. I know eventually my head gaskets will fail, and i plan on being 'prepared' . Going to have a shop go through them and just put them on the shelf till that dreaded day. Will do the same with a set of ' NEW' injectors from Lincoln Diesel,

Just had Copperhead build the trans and did a new triple disk converter

Picked up a good used FICM that is on the shelf

Looking for a TCM to join the other parts occupying the 'shelf'

Ya know why?,,,,, A good friend just traded in his 2015 LML on a 2019 L5P, 4wd Denali CCSB loaded VERY nicely. All because he wanted that extra 50 HP / 140 pounds of torque. He paid just a tad over $74k tax title license on a INVENTORY CLOSEOUT 19. A 2020 (which he didn't want) was almost $20k more loaded like he wanted. That's just simply STUPID. (And UAW is on strike demanding 'more' and the corporate greed is running rampant. )

I was very lucky and found a VERY clean well cared for 2004.5, ATP tuned truck that had been meticulously maintained. Paid $12.9k for it a few year sago.

I can rebuild and rebuild and REBUILD my 2004.5 over and over and over if necessary and have something I like a hell of a lot better than the plastic fantastic BS of the 2020 crap.

Once you get the issues taken care of I bet you LOVE this truck. EVERYTHING is going to get in our pocket. Do you want to spend on some high end rebuilding of this truck, ot pay the MASIVE debtload of $80-90k for a new one, and the INSURANCE nd the annual plate tax and the DEF and the .... and....

All falls under the heading of what I call the Roger Rule (after a very wise and dear friend named Roger Copeland)
"Make your choices, Pay your money, and live with the results"
 

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Thanks for the update, sucks that they didn't test the heads before hand, also the Fass doesn't shut off when pressure builds they should just return unused fuel back to the tank.
 
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