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I have a 2007.5 2500HD (new body) GMC Duramax 6.6L, Allison 1000. I previously had an issue blowing the 2 amp Theft Deterent fuse. I subsequently had the Theft Deterent Control Module replaced back in Feb 2020. This issue started again a few days ago and truck wouldn’t start unless I replaced the 2 amp fuse (theft deterent alarm icon on dash was lit up). Got it to the dealership and they are having a hek of a time troubleshooting to determine what is causing this no start issue. No codes are being displayed on their computer. All wiring was checked and everything appears ok. They thought it was the fuse box so put a new one in but that was not the problem. They are thinking about replacing the ECM. Anybody got any advice?
 

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Somethings blowing the fuse. first, and i ask b/c i havent looked, is 2amp the correct rated fuse? If it is...Trust but verify all work performed by stealership. Of course they want to replace the ECM. Heck, i wouldnt be surprised if a stealership hasnt recommended replacing the engine instead of changing the oil.

I'd trust a blind person to fly a plane backwards before i'd trust a stealership.
 

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knot really. Yeah I know. I'm not sure what else to do though. The truck only has 155,000 km (about 100,000 miles) on it and in pretty good shape. I'm afraid the stealership will cost me a whole bunch of money and the issue will reoccur.
 

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Looks like that 2A fuse is the DLIS fuse and it powers both the VASS and Power Modding/Serial Data modules. Thlose I believe feed the BCM.

Blown fuses are caused by shorts, and the ECM is not the prime suspect, UNLESS they can prove that the short is in the ECM. It might be the BCM, ignition switch, fuse box, or more likely, somewhere in between. In a short situation, they should replace NOTHING until the short is found (sometimes harder that you would think), tested to be the short that is causing the problem, and repaired. It will take longer to find the short than to repair it.
 

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Looks like that 2A fuse is the DLIS fuse and it powers both the VASS and Power Modding/Serial Data modules. Thlose I believe feed the BCM.

Blown fuses are caused by shorts, and the ECM is not the prime suspect, UNLESS they can prove that the short is in the ECM. It might be the BCM, ignition switch, fuse box, or more likely, somewhere in between. In a short situation, they should replace NOTHING until the short is found (sometimes harder that you would think), tested to be the short that is causing the problem, and repaired. It will take longer to find the short than to repair it.
Correct. Usually, in my experiences, when that fuse keeps going open, there is an aftermarket device tied into that circuit. Seen it literally hundreds of times.
 

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Stealership? I’d help but I use to work at a “stealership”. :rolleyes:
Hopefully you dont use an impact wrench turned all the way up to torque lug nuts or screw oil filters on a physically tight as your body is capable of. And hopefully you arent the type that requires the customer to provide the TSB as a suggestion as to what might be causing the knocking sound in the front suspension.
All three of these have happened to me at three different stealerships. Yes, stealerships. You can blame them for that word.

Full disclosure: my hometown chevy dealer has actually taken care of my family for a long time. While my experiences heavily sway me to avoid them at all costs and it pisses me off knowing i paid them good money only to get a not good service... I know for a fact (see above) they aren't all bad.

Your comment/experience on aftermarket wiring is interesting. Not something i would have remotely considered unless it was explicitly stated "well i did just wire up a new..."
 
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