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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is a lot of information on this topic but unfortunately I am still a little confused and cant find a direct answer for what I am looking to do. I am looking to replace factory head unit with aftermarket (not sure which one yet), and add in an amp and a sub (or two) under the back. From what I've gathered, I dont want to tap into speaker wires but am not sure the best route to get best sound. Also, Ive heard of the PAC harness thrown around but is that just for factory head units.. Or is there a PAC harness for aftermarket HU to retain steering, door chimes, etc., work with Bose factory components, and be able to hook up amp and sub.

Also heard of someone replacing factory amp and powering speakers and additional sub...or just add additional amp in rear next to sub. Not trying to spend a ton but will to put out money for it to be done right. Any help is appreciated
 

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If it were me I’d get away from the Bose all together. Add door speakers and wire to your list and just bypass it all together. You will need the PAC box to keep you controls, chimes etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I'm using a PAC RP5-GM11 with an aftermarket head unit ( Kenwood double din) it will hook my radio into the Bose and take care of my steering controls. Truck is 06 Classic no OnStar
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for info. Im not really trying to change out all the speakers but i appreciate the input.
 

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i do not mean this to come across how it is probably going to come across. Based on what you said in your post, i would highly recommend you take the truck to a professional shop and talk to them, then have them do the install. I say this, because the things you said are extremely wrong and do not make sense. I will attempt to explain what you should do if you so choose to, but my recommendation still stands as i have seen WAY too many people in my years installing do thousands of dollars of damage to a vehicle because they didnt want to pay a professional.

That said. You will need the following parts, model numbers are up to you but this would be my recommendation for a OBS truck.

Minimum for radio install:
Data Harness: Pac RP5-GM11 (works for bose and non bose with or without steering wheel controls)
Dash Kit: Metra 99-2011
Antenna: Metra 40-GM10
Radio: Your choice, I recommend a pioneer from the NEX lineup.

Optional Radio Addons:
Reverse Camera: Your choice, must have RCA output though
Front Camera: Your choice, must have RCA output AND must be reversible. (radio must support this also, not all do)

If you want to amplify speakers you need to upgrade them, you CANNOT run an amplifier with the factory speakers you will destroy them.

Minimum parts for speaker install:
Front:
6.5" Round speaker, brand and style is up to you.
speaker clips (if memory servers metra 72-4568 comes as set of 2) This part is optional but will greatly simplify your life
Speaker bracket (metra 82-3002, they come as a set of 2)

Rear:
4x6 or 5.25" speakers depending on cab length and trim level.
same speaker clips
no bracket required

Recommended speaker parts:
Speaker baffles (foam baskets that seal the back side of the speaker)
if not using baffles, foam gasket tape to seal speaker to door
dynamat or similar material to lower noise floor (expensive upgrade)
dynapad to reduce vibration and rattling. (required dynamat first, also expensive)

Subwoofer:
Amp kit, of sufficient quality for the amp being used. kit should be 99.9% pure copper wire, tinned or untinned is up to you. the wire should be labled as AWG not G for example, 8 AWG is a standard size, 8G is whatever the chineese factory decided to make it. aluminum wire is junk. power wire is not cheap, theres a reason for this, do not cut corners on it, it can and will burn your truck down.

1 set of RCA cables
1 remote turn on wire (possibly optional based on amp settings, this wire is almost always included with the power kit)

You will also need a box, this is up to you its all personal preference. i would not do a sealed box though as they generally require much more power to get the same sound level, which is hard to get without charging system upgrades.

a note on power (watts) if you want to double the "volume" of your system, it requires you to increase the wattage by 10x, the decibel scale is not linear so doubling wattage does not double power. In face, doubling your wattage will result in only a 3 dB increase, which most people can barely hear a difference between. Do not be fooled by huge numbers, a 500 watt amp and sub will be plenty loud and will not destroy your truck in the process.

Wire gauge by amp RMS rating:
below 101 Watts RMS = 10 AWG or larger
below 501 Watts RMS = 8 AWG or larger
below 1001 Watts RMS = 4 AWG or larger

unless you are competing in SPL competitions you do not need to go larger then this, and doing so would require charging system upgrades such as a high output alternator and or a dual alternator.

you will need 1 or more subwoofers. Generally speaking 1 sub is better for audio quality as there is no chance the sub will be slightly out of phase of the other. however for max sound pressure ("volume") multiple subs is better. so decide what you want and go with that.

subs generally come in 2 configurations, SCV and DVC (single voice coil and dual voice voil) one is not necessarilly better then the other, the reason there are 2 is so you can get the idea resistance of 2 ohms from your speaker combination.

you can wire a speaker in series, in parallel or a combination of the two, this will change the resistance of the final load on the speaker. i will give some examples, there are online calculators specifically for wiring speakers though.

if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 4 ohms then in series the speakers are 8 ohms
if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 2 ohms then in series the speakers are 4 ohms
if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 4 ohms then in parallel the speakers are 2 ohms
if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 2 ohms then in parallel the speakers are 1 ohms (will destroy most amplifiers)
iif you have 3 SCV speakers and each speaker is 4 ohms then in parallel the speakers are .... harder

use the formula 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 where R1 is the first speaker R2 is the second and so on, so if all speakers match this simplifies to 1/R = 3 / R1 where R is the resistance the amplifier sees.

in this case, the amp would see 1.33 ohms, which would likely damage most amps.

3 speakers in series is much easier, just add the coils together. 4+4+4 = 12 ohms at the amp.

More ohms means the amp runs cooler, but produces less power, doubling ohms halves power output. halving ohms doubles power output.

4 channel amp parts:
roll of speed wire
2 sets of RCA cables
a 4 channel amp
a power kit, same rules apply as with the sub amp.



installation:

the radio will connect to the Pac harness, the pac harness will connect to the vehicle harness. if you have a bose truck, you will want to locate the bypass radio harness behind the heater controls, if you have a regular truck, this is the harness that plugs into your radio. Cut the speaker wires about 2-3 inches away from the plug, cap the wires coming out of the plug. connect the speed wire to the vehicle side of the plug (not capped) the other end goes to your 4 channel amp output. The RCA's go from the back of the radio to your amps. The remote wire if needed goes from the back of the radio to the amps. The power wire goes from the battery to the amps, you either need 1 cable with a distribution block to run both amps, or you need 2 cables. If running a distro block, it should be fused at the disto block for each amp, and regardless of any other factor there should be a fuse 18" or less from the battery post on every power wire going into the cab. connect your sub to your mono block outputs plug the radio in and you are theoretically done besides tuning.


basically, the 4 channel amp becomes a T harness between the radio RCA outputs and the vehicles factory speaker wires.
 

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J83 which battery is preferred for amps or distribution block?
it depends on application, but generally i would go with a starting battery, as they are capable of delivering more current at once then a deep cycle battery. However, if you plan to run the system off a battery at the beach or something with the engine off, you would want to use a deep cycle so you dont damage the battery.

type of battery is personal preference, sealed AGM batteries are my preference because they can be mounted in any configuration and have a slightly higher resting voltage then a standard lead acid battery which gives you slightly better power output for the same amperage, though if the alternator is running this is negligible. just dont mix them together, a AGM and lead acid should never be connected together because they rest about .6V apart if memory serves, which means you will ALWAYS be draining the AGM and over charging the lead acid.
 

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2007 Silverado CCSB 4X4 LBZ 6sp
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i do not mean this to come across how it is probably going to come across. Based on what you said in your post, i would highly recommend you take the truck to a professional shop and talk to them, then have them do the install. I say this, because the things you said are extremely wrong and do not make sense. I will attempt to explain what you should do if you so choose to, but my recommendation still stands as i have seen WAY too many people in my years installing do thousands of dollars of damage to a vehicle because they didnt want to pay a professional.

That said. You will need the following parts, model numbers are up to you but this would be my recommendation for a OBS truck.

Minimum for radio install:
Data Harness: Pac RP5-GM11 (works for bose and non bose with or without steering wheel controls)
Dash Kit: Metra 99-2011
Antenna: Metra 40-GM10
Radio: Your choice, I recommend a pioneer from the NEX lineup.

Optional Radio Addons:
Reverse Camera: Your choice, must have RCA output though
Front Camera: Your choice, must have RCA output AND must be reversible. (radio must support this also, not all do)

If you want to amplify speakers you need to upgrade them, you CANNOT run an amplifier with the factory speakers you will destroy them.

Minimum parts for speaker install:
Front:
6.5" Round speaker, brand and style is up to you.
speaker clips (if memory servers metra 72-4568 comes as set of 2) This part is optional but will greatly simplify your life
Speaker bracket (metra 82-3002, they come as a set of 2)

Rear:
4x6 or 5.25" speakers depending on cab length and trim level.
same speaker clips
no bracket required

Recommended speaker parts:
Speaker baffles (foam baskets that seal the back side of the speaker)
if not using baffles, foam gasket tape to seal speaker to door
dynamat or similar material to lower noise floor (expensive upgrade)
dynapad to reduce vibration and rattling. (required dynamat first, also expensive)

Subwoofer:
Amp kit, of sufficient quality for the amp being used. kit should be 99.9% pure copper wire, tinned or untinned is up to you. the wire should be labled as AWG not G for example, 8 AWG is a standard size, 8G is whatever the chineese factory decided to make it. aluminum wire is junk. power wire is not cheap, theres a reason for this, do not cut corners on it, it can and will burn your truck down.

1 set of RCA cables
1 remote turn on wire (possibly optional based on amp settings, this wire is almost always included with the power kit)

You will also need a box, this is up to you its all personal preference. i would not do a sealed box though as they generally require much more power to get the same sound level, which is hard to get without charging system upgrades.

a note on power (watts) if you want to double the "volume" of your system, it requires you to increase the wattage by 10x, the decibel scale is not linear so doubling wattage does not double power. In face, doubling your wattage will result in only a 3 dB increase, which most people can barely hear a difference between. Do not be fooled by huge numbers, a 500 watt amp and sub will be plenty loud and will not destroy your truck in the process.

Wire gauge by amp RMS rating:
below 101 Watts RMS = 10 AWG or larger
below 501 Watts RMS = 8 AWG or larger
below 1001 Watts RMS = 4 AWG or larger

unless you are competing in SPL competitions you do not need to go larger then this, and doing so would require charging system upgrades such as a high output alternator and or a dual alternator.

you will need 1 or more subwoofers. Generally speaking 1 sub is better for audio quality as there is no chance the sub will be slightly out of phase of the other. however for max sound pressure ("volume") multiple subs is better. so decide what you want and go with that.

subs generally come in 2 configurations, SCV and DVC (single voice coil and dual voice voil) one is not necessarilly better then the other, the reason there are 2 is so you can get the idea resistance of 2 ohms from your speaker combination.

you can wire a speaker in series, in parallel or a combination of the two, this will change the resistance of the final load on the speaker. i will give some examples, there are online calculators specifically for wiring speakers though.

if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 4 ohms then in series the speakers are 8 ohms
if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 2 ohms then in series the speakers are 4 ohms
if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 4 ohms then in parallel the speakers are 2 ohms
if you have 2 SCV speakers and each speaker is 2 ohms then in parallel the speakers are 1 ohms (will destroy most amplifiers)
iif you have 3 SCV speakers and each speaker is 4 ohms then in parallel the speakers are .... harder

use the formula 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 where R1 is the first speaker R2 is the second and so on, so if all speakers match this simplifies to 1/R = 3 / R1 where R is the resistance the amplifier sees.

in this case, the amp would see 1.33 ohms, which would likely damage most amps.

3 speakers in series is much easier, just add the coils together. 4+4+4 = 12 ohms at the amp.

More ohms means the amp runs cooler, but produces less power, doubling ohms halves power output. halving ohms doubles power output.

4 channel amp parts:
roll of speed wire
2 sets of RCA cables
a 4 channel amp
a power kit, same rules apply as with the sub amp.



installation:

the radio will connect to the Pac harness, the pac harness will connect to the vehicle harness. if you have a bose truck, you will want to locate the bypass radio harness behind the heater controls, if you have a regular truck, this is the harness that plugs into your radio. Cut the speaker wires about 2-3 inches away from the plug, cap the wires coming out of the plug. connect the speed wire to the vehicle side of the plug (not capped) the other end goes to your 4 channel amp output. The RCA's go from the back of the radio to your amps. The remote wire if needed goes from the back of the radio to the amps. The power wire goes from the battery to the amps, you either need 1 cable with a distribution block to run both amps, or you need 2 cables. If running a distro block, it should be fused at the disto block for each amp, and regardless of any other factor there should be a fuse 18" or less from the battery post on every power wire going into the cab. connect your sub to your mono block outputs plug the radio in and you are theoretically done besides tuning.


basically, the 4 channel amp becomes a T harness between the radio RCA outputs and the vehicles factory speaker wires.
You can run the stock speakers from and aftermarket amp. No problem at all just make sure to tune the amp correctly and not to turn the gains up to much. I have heard many OEM Bose speakers sound half decent with an aftermarket amp. Done it many times. Sure nice pair of aftermarket speakers will sound better but Bose speakers and not all that bad for being stock. Hell some Bose speakers sound better then some aftermarket speakers. As far has headunits sure pioneers are nice but there are many other units much nice and ones that sound way better. Also picking power wire should be by the amount of current that’s going to be drawn. Yea you can get the amount of amps by the ram power but watts is the long way around current draw is what matters. Also the human ear maybe not everyone but the human ear can notice a 3db difference. You have some decent knowledge but there’s still a lot to learn and you should be getting your info from people who install for a living and that have been install for awhile and not at like the Best Buy. Go to a real shop that has a good reputation. Also there is a difference between what’s things look like on power and what the real life physical application is. Bose speakers have a ton of research and engineering in them and as long as you understand that and use the speakers with in the design limitations they can perform very well. Not saying they are great because they really are not anything special but when working on a budget and not spending a fortune they can perform fairly well more then most people think. As far as bass out put the more surface area the more volume with be produced. That’s why 4 8s can sound louder then a pair or 12s if done correctly. I have heard a pair of two 4 inch drive in a full custom band bass box and it sounds like a 10. I have also heard some crappy low end speakers sound great in the right box.
 
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