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Discussion Starter #1
So im looking to purchase either a 2010 or a 2011 chevy 2500hd with the duramax. what are the PROS and CONS of both year trucks? this will be my first deisel...thanks
 

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Welcome to the DF! It would all depend on what you are looking to do with it

Sent from my DROIDX
 

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2010, no urea
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm going to be towing a 10,000 pound trailer and the truck will be a daily driver. I heard that the 2011 has issues with some additive that the truck needs . Like I said, I'm new to diesels so I have no idea about the motor or the details of it
 

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Well the 2011 would be better for towing. And there is no efi live... right now
 

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its mostly the best programmer out there for a duramax truck, it can pretty much do anything you tell it to do.
 

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What is EFI live? Sorry but I'm totally new to the duramaxx and to diesels.
yeah its totally okay! its custom tuning for the duramac and cummins engines, you can basically do whatever you want as far tuning goes and it is amazing. i highly recommend talking and getting your stuff from Idaho Rob at ATPtrucks.com :D
 

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2010 does not have the Urea tank, and the wheel bolt pattern is the same as all previous years so more/cheaper wheel options if you want to remove the stock. You can get EFI live tuning done to it.

2011 has new bolt pattern for the wheels, cannot get EFI at this time, has Urea tank. Can get H&S tuning, higher HP/TQ factory tuning, it's 1 year newer.

That's what I'm thinking off the top of my head.
 

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The brakes on the 2011's will blow your mind. If you want to stop buy a 2011.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Now as far as the urea goes, what is it, what purpose does it serve, how often do you need to fill it, and I heard it can freeze in cold weather, making the truck undriveable???
 

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I agree with the above posters. If you want the best brakes available, go with the 2011. However you would have to deal with the urea tank that has given issues. Urea is cheap to fill and you have to add to it about every 5000 miles or so but they have had have issues with it freezing up depending on how cold it gets where you love. EFI Live has never been a big deal with me, as the truck has enough power stock to do what I want it to do. But if you are looking to dramatically get more performance out of your engine, EFI Live would be the programmer to have. It is just not availiable for the 2011 yet. Like the above poster stated, the wheel bold pattern is different (8x180) on the 2011 trucks and would not fit prior year models. 2010 and earlier trucks use a 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern, so there would be more of an assortment of aftermarket wheels for you. It all depends on what you are looking for.
 

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I'd simply out it this way... if you want to mod the truck and make a lot of power, buy a 2010. If you plan to just leave it stock as the day you get it, the 2011s are pretty awesome trucks.

The emissions stuff wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, as the 2011s get awesome mileage stock. And either trucks emissions equipment will work as designed without problems.

Sent from my Droid using the AutoGuide app while not driving...
 

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I'd simply out it this way... if you want to mod the truck and make a lot of power, buy a 2010. If you plan to just leave it stock as the day you get it, the 2011s are pretty awesome trucks.

The emissions stuff wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, as the 2011s get awesome mileage stock. And either trucks emissions equipment will work as designed without problems.

Sent from my Droid using the AutoGuide app while not driving...
Exactly what you should do. The 2010's get worse mileage STOCK, but you can do things to them to get better mileage than the 2011's. The urea is for the exhaust, yes, now there is really such a thing as exhaust fluid. It is for the particulate filter so it doesn't use your extra fuel like the 2010's


And iirc the bolt pattern on the 2011 is 8x180mm. But I'm not sure.
 

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Thats jus stupid I remember an old Diesel power mag sayin the drw trucks got a new bp but i didnt know the 3/4 tons did to.This is the reason i dont even follow new vehicles all these "changes" jus equate to costing you more money
 

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First, off to clear up the wheel issue: all 2011-12 GM 2500-3500 trucks went to a 8x180mm bolt pattern. This does mean you need '11+ specific wheels, but the aftermarket has already responded with a ton of wheels and there is little/no price difference between them and any other 8 lug bolt pattern. You will have a harder time finding used wheels of course (though I did without looking too long).

Next, while the body/bed stayed the same basically the entire rest of the truck changed. It's an all new chassis which is much stiffer/stronger. The front suspension was significantly beefed up (including tie-rods). The brakes are much bigger. The rear springs are wider. The trans has been beefed up (nobody has really figured out what it's limits are stock though). The motor features new Piezo injectors. Etc. Stock they are rated at 397/765 hp/tq though they are probably a bit underrated since they dyno around 360/660 rwhp/rwtq stock. The ride is also much, much nicer than prior years.

The '11+ also did get the DEF (urea) injection system as mentioned. It is not an issue at all anymore (there were some tune/software issues early on, but that has all been resolved). You need to fill it up every ~5k miles at maybe $20/fill (2.5 gallon jug is something like $12 IIRC and you put about 4 gallons in a '11, I guess the '12 has a much bigger tank so less fills but more $ per fill). The DOC, DPF, and DEF really do work though. I think I had around 7k miles including at least half towing ~10k lbs when I took my stock exhaust off and you could wipe the inside of the tip with a white rag and it'd come out clean.

I went ahead and did a full delete exhaust (downpipe without DOC and full 5" exhaust with muffler), a Banks intake, and a H&S Black Maxx tuner. I completely removed my DEF tank. No more DEF worries for me - though no more powertrain warranty and I of course only use my truck like this for offroad/racing purposes never on the road ( ;) :neener ;) ). The truck absolutely hauls ass on "only" the Wild tune. I can tow on this tune too without any EGT issues (it'll hit mid 1400s if I stay floored through a few gears, but w/ my ~10k lbs trailer even climbing grades there is NO good reason to be floored that long, it'll climb anything at half throttle or less). Without the trailer it won't get past mid 1200s.

As others have stated though EFI live (a software that allows completely custom tunes to be built and loaded) is not, and will not be available for the LML ('11+). That said, the HOT tune on the H&S does 500/1000 rwhp/rwtq which is probably plenty for most folks. Once somebody makes a higher flow CP4.2 (the pump a LML uses, it makes more pressure than prior pumps but is supposedly down a bit on overall flow) I think the H&S tune will support a bit more power than that, or at least maintain rail pressure better and deliver a true 500/1000 for an entire 1/4 mile. Right now the 1/4 times I've seen for full delete, HOT tune LMLs indicate they might be dropping rail pressure a bit on the top end (around 13.8s w/ a soft launch). Though, a '11+ truck will weigh at least 500lbs if not 1000lbs more than a LMM, so that accounts for some of the difference and nobody has really setup and launched a tune/delete LML right yet.

Basically, if you're going to stay stock or close to stock get a LML ('11+) truck. I think my truck is right about perfect for how I use it (DD, plus a good amount of towing my race trailer with my Z06 or sand rail) with a leveling kit, wheels/tires, delete/tune. If I wanted a huge solid axle swap truck with twin turbos and all that jazz I would have started with something older. But for a lightly modded truck I absolutely LOVE my LML and it does the job extremely well.



-TJ
 

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did you just type all that or do you keep it in a word document and copy and paste it everywhere?



and hi, btw :)
 
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