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The first thing I noticed is most of the dead pedal goes away. With that also comes a lot more torque to the ground at low rpm and if it's raining out you really have to be careful. Even dropping down a gear to change a lane and it will break the tires loose and try and get you sideways. Just takes some learning but worth it.

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Aw the advantages of not living in California. If you lived in my state you now have a truck you could never ever sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Just finished my delete on my 15 we did it in the driveway took about 4 hours. Flo-pro 4 inch w ezlynk ppei SOTF!!!!!! So glad I did this drives awesome and sounds great.


ANYONE WHO IS ON THE FENCE????? JUST DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!


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Got to love any Delete! :smile2:
The full delete takes a bit more and makes an even bigger difference.
Here is the picture of all parts I deleted.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
The first thing I noticed is most of the dead pedal goes away. With that also comes a lot more torque to the ground at low rpm and if it's raining out you really have to be careful. Even dropping down a gear to change a lane and it will break the tires loose and try and get you sideways. Just takes some learning but worth it.

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Total agreement by me. I hated that dead pedal! Learning curve, yes. On the way out of town towing toyhauler (the people that were in a hurry and had somewhere to go causing traffic to come almost to a stop!) I went a little to hard on the throttle and to my surprise easily broke traction. That was on the Econ/Tow tune towing at least 8500 pounds.:smile2:
 

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Been looking at and wanting to do this for 5 years now. Waited because of warranty worries. With reliability problems increasing it was finally decided.
I could not be happier. Truck is much more fun to drive with a more responsive pedal and it makes bunch of cool sounds!
I am thankful for all of the information available on this forum. I learned a lot from lurking around here and referred to many build threads and write ups to do a complete delete myself.
Will add write ups and pics of my experiences as time allows.
After I calm down and quit giving people rides the actual fuel mileage gains will also be reported.
Thank You Duramaxforum.com and its members.
I'm going to begin doing the same exact deletes you did tonight in my little garage with basic tools all by myself. I'm fully deleting the egr with a LB7 up-pipe, downpipe, 5" straight pipe, lift pump and the other small things. I did all this on my old LLY, but I've heard its way more involved and more difficult on these LML's...so do you have any pointers or any unforeseen issues you ran into while doing it? Things that would have made it easier? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I'm going to begin doing the same exact deletes you did tonight in my little garage with basic tools all by myself. I'm fully deleting the egr with a LB7 up-pipe, downpipe, 5" straight pipe, lift pump and the other small things. I did all this on my old LLY, but I've heard its way more involved and more difficult on these LML's...so do you have any pointers or any unforeseen issues you ran into while doing it? Things that would have made it easier? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
The only things I can think of are

1. I sprayed all bolts with PB Blaster and let it sit for a day.
2. I read about but did not experience any trouble with down pipe. Did not remove its heat shield. After removing exhaust first, then the turbo heat shield and upper band clamp it was twisted and turned while pulling down on it and came out without much fight.
3. A few of the up pipe bolts were real stubborn and could only be accessed by feel. I used a socket attached to swivel to 3" extension to my torque wrench locked out on the bolts going into the EGR. Also had my son lay out on the engine and help hold the socket on the up pipe to turbo bolts (a thick moving blanket and 4 ft step ladder helped here) . A breaker bar and/or pipe on ratchet could also work.

This was done in my two car carport. I took my time, cussed a lot and had frequent breaks. Being mechanically inclined but backyard mechanic only, it was probably at least 7 out of 10 difficulty in my opinion. Very doable!

If I think of anything else I will add later.
Good luck to you.
 

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Awesome! That's basically how I'm gonna start this process off. I'll be doing it in a 2 car garage that I won't be able close the door to so it's gonna be freezing cold! I may have to pick your brain about a few things maybe...hope that's alright? ha!
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Awesome! That's basically how I'm gonna start this process off. I'll be doing it in a 2 car garage that I won't be able close the door to so it's gonna be freezing cold! I may have to pick your brain about a few things maybe...hope that's alright? ha!
Absolutely. Would be happy to help if needed.
Peace
 

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Awesome! That's basically how I'm gonna start this process off. I'll be doing it in a 2 car garage that I won't be able close the door to so it's gonna be freezing cold! I may have to pick your brain about a few things maybe...hope that's alright? ha!
How sore is your back from being underneath the truck ? I pulled muscles I apparently hardly ever use. Give us an update. Hope it's going well

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The pain is worth it after the first ride. :grin2:
 

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How sore is your back from being underneath the truck ? I pulled muscles I apparently hardly ever use. Give us an update. Hope it's going well

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Well so far it's not going all that great. I started with getting all of the egr mess off the motor and I ran into one bolt that I have no clue how to get anything on it. It's on the egr cooler where it bends 90 degrees. There are 4 bolts total and 3 are easily accessible but not the bottom right one. I got frustrated with that so I moved down to start taking the downpipe loose. It was freaking cold here in Oklahoma so that slowed me down a lot also. It's supposed to be a little warmer tomorrow so hopefully things will go a little better!
 

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Alright, so today I got all the exhaust out from under the truck. Cutting the front section of it was the biggest pain! I had the hardest time getting the sawzaw to cut all the way around the pipe. I moved on to the downpipe and I got all the sensors out of it, both clamps top and bottom off of it and the bottom 14mm bolt out. Now this is where I'm stuck. I can't get the downpipe to come loose from the back of the turbo to save my life! I can't wiggle it. I can't rotate it. There isn't even a gap to get a screw driver in there to pry it apart. Can anyone shed some light on me about what you did to get the downpipe to come loose.
 

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The band was removed, right? Had to ask. Try putting a pry bar into the DP from the bottom and see if it will wiggle loose. If not, tap on the bottom of the DP with a rubber mallet.
 

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The band was removed, right? Had to ask. Try putting a pry bar into the DP from the bottom and see if it will wiggle loose. If not, tap on the bottom of the DP with a rubber mallet.
Yeah, band clamp is removed from where it connects to the back of the turbo. I attempted the pry bar in the downpipe from underneath to wiggle it but I don't have a long enough pry bar ( story of my life!!! )
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Yeah, band clamp is removed from where it connects to the back of the turbo. I attempted the pry bar in the downpipe from underneath to wiggle it but I don't have a long enough pry bar ( story of my life!!! )
Sorry to hear about your struggles.
I was able to pull and push the down pipe enough in the wheel well to where a gap opened up top and then pry and wiggle it off.
Hopefully it being warmer the next few days down here in the southwest helps you out.
 

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Sorry to hear about your struggles.
I was able to pull and push the down pipe enough in the wheel well to where a gap opened up top and then pry and wiggle it off.
Hopefully it being warmer the next few days down here in the southwest helps you out.
Yeah, I can't move or wiggle it with my hands through the wheel well at all. I guess today after work I'm going to go get a larger pry bar or crowbar to see if I can't get a gap up top. I sprayed the top section where the downpipe meets the turbo with the liquid wrench so maybe that'll get in there and help some after sitting all night and all day today. I'm just ready to start putting parts on instead of still taking parts off!

Also, arizonaphatz did you take the egr cooler off as one piece or in 2 pieces?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Yeah, I can't move or wiggle it with my hands through the wheel well at all. I guess today after work I'm going to go get a larger pry bar or crowbar to see if I can't get a gap up top. I sprayed the top section where the downpipe meets the turbo with the liquid wrench so maybe that'll get in there and help some after sitting all night and all day today. I'm just ready to start putting parts on instead of still taking parts off!

Also, arizonaphatz did you take the egr cooler off as one piece or in 2 pieces?
A pry bar should get that thing moving.
Yes I took EGR off as one piece.
 

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A pry bar should get that thing moving.
Yes I took EGR off as one piece.
Ok, cause I don't know how anyone could get that one bolt on the bottom right where it makes a 90 degree turn. The cooler looks like it's bolted to a egr valve in the back that looks like it's bolted to the up-pipe riser. Did you unbolt the valve from the riser and pull the cooler and the valve out as one? Or did you unbolt the cooler from the valve and pulled just the cooler and then unbolted the valve from the riser? If you pulled the cooler from the valve that's connected to the riser, I'm curious how you got those 4 bolts off. There's one bolt that looks like there is no room to get anything on it. They're all facing away from you if you're laying on the engine. I'm assuming you unbolted the valve from the riser from underneath the truck.
 
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