[Hitch0630]

Hi all! I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado. So for the longest time the “Service Tire Monitoring System” message has been on but it never ever went off no matter what I did. Now for the last couple months when I start it I press in the brake and I can’t get it out of park. It usually takes a few seconds for it to work. However I’ve started turning the steering wheel back and forth and it seems to work a little better. However, when I depress the brakes I get “Service Stabilitrak” “Service trailer brake system” “service traction control system” the swerving light is on and the ABS light is on. The engine light has been on for a while because of the O2 sensors being bad and the exclamation point right under the swerving light is on too but that’s been on forever. Sorry but I just don’t have the money to invest in the dealer thing. I’d REALLY REALLY Appreciate help with this stuff. I’m out of work because of COVID and really need help from people who know exactly what I need to do. Thank you all in advance!

 

[sargenthp]

Sound like a few bad sensors or maybe a bad area of a wire harness. I guess I would look for chewed wires.


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[ALLY Cat]

A couple of easy things you could try. Disconnect both batteries (take the black negative cables off) and let it sit for 20 minutes or so and then reconnect. This will sorta "reboot" the computer module. The tire sensors, I believe, have small batteries in them that go bad after a few years, take it to a local tire shop and see what they say. The brake/park issue might be an adjustment or an intermittent switch. My local Les Schwab tire place offers a 90 day no interest financing. Take your truck to an auto parts store and have them scan it for codes. Places like Auto Zone will usually do this for free, of course they want you to buy parts from them to fix it. You might also tell folks where you are located, there are a lot of great people here who might live nearby and be able to give you a hand.

 

[Hitch0630]

A couple of easy things you could try. Disconnect both batteries (take the black negative cables off) and let it sit for 20 minutes or so and then reconnect. This will sorta "reboot" the computer module. The tire sensors, I believe, have small batteries in them that go bad after a few years, take it to a local tire shop and see what they say. The brake/park issue might be an adjustment or an intermittent switch. My local Les Schwab tire place offers a 90 day no interest financing. Take your truck to an auto parts store and have them scan it for codes. Places like Auto Zone will usually do this for free, of course they want you to buy parts from them to fix it. You might also tell folks where you are located, there are a lot of great people here who might live nearby and be able to give you a hand.

I’m sorry about that I’m located in Maryland. A little town called Salisbury. Yeah it just sucks to have all this stuff happening. Probably bad sensors or just really dirty around my brakes and such. I know i need brakes too I am starting to here a small squeal if I’m like slowing down in a tunnel or something. Just sucks having to pay the money I don’t have to keep her on the road lol!

 

[Hitch0630]

Sound like a few bad sensors or maybe a bad area of a wire harness. I guess I would look for chewed wires.


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I don’t even know where to look for that kind of stuff. I’m just car dumb. I can do my own brakes and change my oil and tires and yeah that’s about it. Sensors and that stuff and following lines are just not in my wheelhouse.

 

[ALLY Cat]

If your front wheel bearings are wearing out or there's a lot of brake dust or salt buildup, it can cause issues with the front wheel speed sensors. Jack up the front and see if there's play by shaking the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock position. If there's even a small amount of looseness, it can cause wheel sensor issues, which can cause ABS codes. Like I said, take your truck to an auto parts store that can read codes for free. That should tell you what's going on. There may be simple fixes or CEL codes that can be ignored for the time being.

 

[mwienczk]

Hi all! I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado. So for the longest time the “Service Tire Monitoring System” message has been on but it never ever went off no matter what I did. Now for the last couple months when I start it I press in the brake and I can’t get it out of park. It usually takes a few seconds for it to work. However I’ve started turning the steering wheel back and forth and it seems to work a little better. However, when I depress the brakes I get “Service Stabilitrak” “Service trailer brake system” “service traction control system” the swerving light is on and the ABS light is on. The engine light has been on for a while because of the O2 sensors being bad and the exclamation point right under the swerving light is on too but that’s been on forever. Sorry but I just don’t have the money to invest in the dealer thing. I’d REALLY REALLY Appreciate help with this stuff. I’m out of work because of COVID and really need help from people who know exactly what I need to do. Thank you all in advance!

Check the fuse in the main box under the hood. Consult your manual for the diagram and what pertains to what. I got so sick of my traction control that I decided to disable it and pulled the fuse. The fuse runs your ABS, TC, Stabilitrak and trailer brake. All of those lights are on, on my dash. It’s been awhile since I did it but I’ll look to see what number fuse it is to check.

 

[ChevyTech77]

Sounds like you have two problems. A service tire monitor message and brake/abs/trailer brake/traction and stability control message can’t really be tied together. I’ll admit, I’m sort of confused on how a diesel can have a check engine like on for an O2 sensor code though.

The service tire monitor message is most likely due to a bad tire pressure sensor in one of your tires.

The brake messages are very likely all tied together. If you have difficulty pulling the shifter out of part, you probably have an issue with the brake pedal position sensor. That can give you all of your brake messages. Problem is, after its replaced you have to have it calibrated with a high level scan tool.

This is all a complete and udder guess considering that I don’t know if there are any modifications to the vehicle, recent repairs or even know what diagnostic trouble codes are stored and in which modules they are stored in.

 

[Nate Dmax]

Looks like you are getting some pretty good advice here. One thing that should be checked is the under hood fuse box for corrosion on the circuit board. I have seen and heard of that on the 2007 to 2014 body style fuse panels and it sure can screw things up. Hope you can get it figured out soon.

 

[mwienczk]

Check the fuse in the main box under the hood. Consult your manual for the diagram and what pertains to what. I got so sick of my traction control that I decided to disable it and pulled the fuse. The fuse runs your ABS, TC, Stabilitrak and trailer brake. All of those lights are on, on my dash. It’s been awhile since I did it but I’ll look to see

what number fuse it is to check.

I’ll have to check in the morning what # it is. It’s a 40A fuse. Check to make sure the lens is clear and contact inside isn’t separated.