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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, Looking for pics of trucks who are running stock 20" rims and a 2.5 Lift. I am considering a 2.5 lift instead of the level for a better ride and to not strain my front end equipment (because that is what I am reading happens).
I am gearing towards a 285/65R20 or something similar.
Please post, Thanks. Jake
I have a 2016 Chevy 2500HD LT.
 

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The 2.5" "lift" is more than likely just a level kit. Post a link to this lift you speak of.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The 2.5" "lift" is more than likely just a level kit. Post a link to this lift you speak of.
So, I will say up front that I am a newbie when it comes to how suspensions, lifts, levels, arms, spacers, etc work. I just started reading threads about 3 weeks ago. Here is the link..thinking of staying in the 2-3in range.
But I tow a 7000lb camper during the summer weekends and drive a lot on old logging roads in the Black Hills, SD during fall hunting season.
So I want a bit higher stance and more aggressive tire for off road.
https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-suspension-lift-kit-165.html)

Thanks for any help. open to suggestions if I can accomplish this cheaper or in a better way without compromising too much ride quality (I know some will degrade with lifts/levels and aggressive tires). I don't want to do any trimming, although I would open to moving the front bumper forward? Would like to do it right and not strain front end parts.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, I will say up front that I am a newbie when it comes to how suspensions, lifts, levels, arms, spacers, etc work. I just started reading threads about 3 weeks ago. Here is the link..thinking of staying in the 2-3in range.
But I tow a 7000lb camper during the summer weekends and drive a lot on old logging roads in the Black Hills, SD during fall hunting season.
So I want a bit higher stance and more aggressive tire for off road.
https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-suspension-lift-kit-165.html)

Thanks for any help. open to suggestions if I can accomplish this cheaper or in a better way without compromising too much ride quality (I know some will degrade with lifts/levels and aggressive tires). I don't want to do any trimming, although I would open to moving the front bumper forward? Would like to do it right and not strain front end parts.
Thanks
Correction, just realized that the RC lift doesn't fit my truck. Sorry...so looks like anything that low (and with keys) is a leveling kit?
 

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First thing to figure out is how much you are willing to spend to raise the truck up, that will depend on what people are going to reference you to go with. I have turned my T-bars/keys up and I have also left the front alone and dropped the rear. It all depends on what you want to do, but as soon as you start to crank the t-bars/keys up you are going to sacrifice ride quality. I will attach a picture of my truck that is currently "leveled", but i used a 2" drop shackle in the rear and turned the keys ever so slightly. In the front I am running stock keys, cognito upper control arms, Cognito Pisk kit, DMAx tie rods, Bilstein 5100 chocks, & Front diff spacers to help with the CV angles. The tires in this picture is a 35x12.50r20. For a 15-19 truck you can run a 35x11.50r20 with no rub. I am running the 35x12.50 and i rub at full lock on the frame in the rear and ever so slightly on the UCA (i mean ever so slightly).
 

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Diesel Junky
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He is right, it's all about how much your willing to invest. Me I would love to do a coil over conversion and be set, however I can't justify that. So I am going Cognito UCAs, with shock extenders.

Dnarli

Nice truck. so im interested in your method, and still being able to clear 35 12.50 with minimal rub.
there reason i ask, putting the mud boat in sometimes i have to back down the shallow to get boat on and off. So i want to gain some clearance, but i imagine going to 35 you got 2 to 3 inches of height?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
First thing to figure out is how much you are willing to spend to raise the truck up, that will depend on what people are going to reference you to go with. I have turned my T-bars/keys up and I have also left the front alone and dropped the rear. It all depends on what you want to do, but as soon as you start to crank the t-bars/keys up you are going to sacrifice ride quality. I will attach a picture of my truck that is currently "leveled", but i used a 2" drop shackle in the rear and turned the keys ever so slightly. In the front I am running stock keys, cognito upper control arms, Cognito Pisk kit, DMAx tie rods, Bilstein 5100 chocks, & Front diff spacers to help with the CV angles. The tires in this picture is a 35x12.50r20. For a 15-19 truck you can run a 35x11.50r20 with no rub. I am running the 35x12.50 and i rub at full lock on the frame in the rear and ever so slightly on the UCA (i mean ever so slightly).
Hey, thanks for the feedback. Here is pic of my truck. 26k miles.
I am looking to spend $1300ish on tires...and would like to keep it under $1000 for level mods.
I am looking at this kit
https://norcaltruck.com/2011-stage-4-budget-uca-package

I would like a couple inch higher in the rear since I tow a camper.

I don't know if I need new keys..
I don't know if I need diff spaces for CV angles..
Still don't know if I need new tie rods like you mentioned either..

I still need to understand what shackles do..here are some I found.
https://norcaltruck.com/chevy-gmc-2011-sulastic-shackles

Research continues. Been reading a lot of threads...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The more I think about it...I guess the question is if the leveling kit (arms, spacers, shock extenders, etc) and stock rims would allow a 285/65r20 tire on it without rubbing?...that's really what it comes down to.

Denarli,
do you know if your rims have the same specs as mine (offset)?
 

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If you are lookin to stay budget friendly that set up from Cognito is not a bad way to go at all. The control arms are nice pieces and the PISK kit makes the truck handle so much better IMO. The kit comes with shock extenders, but you can also upgrade your shocks later (king, bilstein, fox, icon,etc.). If you are thinking about raising the front at all you will need front diff spacers. I have attached a link to the ones that i have and they are cheap. As far as tie rods go it really depends on what you plan to do with the truck. The stock tie rods are a POS on these trucks, If you have the extra cash (DMAX store tie rods are great and inexpensive $200ish) i would go ahead and get them since youll be running larger tires and you'll already be working on the front end and having to get an alignment done. As far as Sulastic shackles go i do not have any personal experience with them. I have heard they are great at helping with the ride. If i remember right they also raise the back of the truck up a little so i steered away since i wanted to go lower with mine. Since i think the sulastic raises the rear of the truck you will need to get new keys for the front. The stock keys will usually only get you around a little lower than the rear. Suspension maxx has the best keys IMO. Going off of what you said you are looking for i would get that budget kit, the front diff spacers, tie rods (if funds allow), the sulastic shackle( do more research as i have no personal experience), and keys.

Just keep doing your research and use the search thread on here. When i first got my truck i stayed searching on this website for days on end about this subject and found everything i needed. Goodluck

2011-Present GM 2500/3500 Front Differential Drop Kit - CCM Offroad & Performance Inc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you are lookin to stay budget friendly that set up from Cognito is not a bad way to go at all. The control arms are nice pieces and the PISK kit makes the truck handle so much better IMO. The kit comes with shock extenders, but you can also upgrade your shocks later (king, bilstein, fox, icon,etc.). If you are thinking about raising the front at all you will need front diff spacers. I have attached a link to the ones that i have and they are cheap. As far as tie rods go it really depends on what you plan to do with the truck. The stock tie rods are a POS on these trucks, If you have the extra cash (DMAX store tie rods are great and inexpensive $200ish) i would go ahead and get them since youll be running larger tires and you'll already be working on the front end and having to get an alignment done. As far as Sulastic shackles go i do not have any personal experience with them. I have heard they are great at helping with the ride. If i remember right they also raise the back of the truck up a little so i steered away since i wanted to go lower with mine. Since i think the sulastic raises the rear of the truck you will need to get new keys for the front. The stock keys will usually only get you around a little lower than the rear. Suspension maxx has the best keys IMO. Going off of what you said you are looking for i would get that budget kit, the front diff spacers, tie rods (if funds allow), the sulastic shackle( do more research as i have no personal experience), and keys.

Just keep doing your research and use the search thread on here. When i first got my truck i stayed searching on this website for days on end about this subject and found everything i needed. Goodluck

2011-Present GM 2500/3500 Front Differential Drop Kit - CCM Offroad & Performance Inc.
Tracking everything your saying, makes sense. I have some wiggle room on $ so tie rods are good recommendation.
Couldn't agree more...keeping searching and reading. thanks. more to come..
 

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First thing to figure out is how much you are willing to spend to raise the truck up, that will depend on what people are going to reference you to go with. I have turned my T-bars/keys up and I have also left the front alone and dropped the rear. It all depends on what you want to do, but as soon as you start to crank the t-bars/keys up you are going to sacrifice ride quality. I will attach a picture of my truck that is currently "leveled", but i used a 2" drop shackle in the rear and turned the keys ever so slightly. In the front I am running stock keys, cognito upper control arms, Cognito Pisk kit, DMAx tie rods, Bilstein 5100 chocks, & Front diff spacers to help with the CV angles. The tires in this picture is a 35x12.50r20. For a 15-19 truck you can run a 35x11.50r20 with no rub. I am running the 35x12.50 and i rub at full lock on the frame in the rear and ever so slightly on the UCA (i mean ever so slightly).
Denarli6.6, I'm looking at either Kryptonites UCA or Cognitos. Do you have any input on if I'd rub running a 295/65R20 (35.1x11.8) on stock wheels with either companys UCA? I really don't want to rub on the UCAs but want as much tire as I can without buying wheels. I plan on doing the diff spacers, tie rods, pisk kit, and rear drop shackles and raising the front about an 1", 2" if I have to. I'm a total noob at this IFS stuff.
 

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Denarli6.6, I'm looking at either Kryptonites UCA or Cognitos. Do you have any input on if I'd rub running a 295/65R20 (35.1x11.8) on stock wheels with either companys UCA? I really don't want to rub on the UCAs but want as much tire as I can without buying wheels. I plan on doing the diff spacers, tie rods, pisk kit, and rear drop shackles and raising the front about an 1", 2" if I have to. I'm a total noob at this IFS stuff.
Are those dimensions from a generic calculator or from tire manufacturer's website? I ask because I have found they seem to have a little different (actual) dimensions, for example Cooper 295/65r20 vs nitto 295/65r20. What tire are you looking to get (i'm still trying to decide)?...
 

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Denarli6.6, I'm looking at either Kryptonites UCA or Cognitos. Do you have any input on if I'd rub running a 295/65R20 (35.1x11.8) on stock wheels with either companys UCA? I really don't want to rub on the UCAs but want as much tire as I can without buying wheels. I plan on doing the diff spacers, tie rods, pisk kit, and rear drop shackles and raising the front about an 1", 2" if I have to. I'm a total noob at this IFS stuff.
If you are going to run OEM wheels i would stay away from Kryptonite UCAs. Don't get me wrong they make some dang good stuff, but the UCAs are too bulky and you will have rubbing issues unless you run a wheel spacer or aftermarket wheels. As i stated earlier I am running the Cognito UCAs with 35x12.50 and it looks like they barely rub at full lock. The wear mark on the UCA looks like a little rust dot from where the black was removed prolly 1/8" in diamter. The way you are wanting to set up your truck is exactly how I have mine right now with the 2" drop shackle. Truck rides great. I do not have any experience with them, but i would check out suspension maxx UCAs if you want zero rubbing since they are a tubular design and are the "squared" design.
 

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Are those dimensions from a generic calculator or from tire manufacturer's website? I ask because I have found they seem to have a little different (actual) dimensions, for example Cooper 295/65r20 vs nitto 295/65r20. What tire are you looking to get (i'm still trying to decide)?...
I'm looking at the Toyo Open Country R/T's, that's what they are listed as. I have notice that it differs based on the tire, the open country M/T in the same size has different measurements. I think after some more looking today I'm going to plan on a 35x11.5R20 to avoid any rub on the UCA's.
 

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If you are going to run OEM wheels i would stay away from Kryptonite UCAs. Don't get me wrong they make some dang good stuff, but the UCAs are too bulky and you will have rubbing issues unless you run a wheel spacer or aftermarket wheels. As i stated earlier I am running the Cognito UCAs with 35x12.50 and it looks like they barely rub at full lock. The wear mark on the UCA looks like a little rust dot from where the black was removed prolly 1/8" in diamter. The way you are wanting to set up your truck is exactly how I have mine right now with the 2" drop shackle. Truck rides great. I do not have any experience with them, but i would check out suspension maxx UCAs if you want zero rubbing since they are a tubular design and are the "squared" design.
Alright thanks. I'll check them out, or I may go Cognito. I think I'm going to run an 11.5 wide just to avoid any rub.
 

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Alright thanks. I'll check them out, or I may go Cognito. I think I'm going to run an 11.5 wide just to avoid any rub.
I just did a 1" drop in the rear & cognito UCAs and turned the stock keys on my buddies 19 & hes running a 35x11.50 ridge grappler and he has zero rub.
 

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I just did a 1" drop in the rear & cognito UCAs and turned the stock keys on my buddies 19 & hes running a 35x11.50 ridge grappler and he has zero rub.
10-4. Do you run air bags or anything to help with squat for when you tow?
 

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10-4. Do you run air bags or anything to help with squat for when you tow?
I dont have airbags or anything. Trucks never towed more than 10k and i didnt have any issues.
 

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I have the fabtech 3.5 it comes with knuckles and uca’s shocks and keys . It rides real good. I have 20x10 -12 offset and 295/55/20 no rub and a great stance.
 
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