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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm looking at a 2016 duramax, to buy with 41,256 miles on it. Is there anything to be watchful for prior to buying?

Any better years to look at as well. Dont really wanna go for new right now (plus not a fan of the new body style)


TIA
 

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I have a 2016. Been deleted since 900 miles. Have not had one issue. 38000 miles. Average about 19 mpg, 21 on hwy
20181024_142414.jpg


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I have a 2016. Been deleted since 900 miles. Have not had one issue. 38000 miles. Average about 19 mpg, 21 on hwy View attachment 1077851

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Somebody else on a different forum told me about something called the CP4 grenade issue with the injector?! ever hear of anything like that or have you done anything to prevent that issue?
 

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If you run treatment in your fuel for lubrication, you will likely not have any issue.

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We have a 16 and only problems we had is an 02 sensor went out a couple years ago and the dreaded 2 piece oil pan leak that they resealed. We only have 34,000 miles or so on it. Not deleted but wish it was. We get around 18-20 average but we are usually slow drivers and don't hot rod around. This MPG is driving 55-65 locally.
Took a trip last year up to NoDak, MT, ID, and back to AZ. Got our best mileage around 75 with the A/C running constantly. On that trip we got any place from 19-23 MPG.
We also always use a diesel additive. Either Stanadyne or Schaeffer's diesel additive.

Thinking of getting a new 2021 or 2022 possibly. But if the new ones don't get the mileage and eat DEF we probably won't buy a new one but will see in the future.
I would try to get the name of the previous owner as i never buy anything used unless i can talk with the previous owner. When i sell or trade something i tell them they can have someone call me and i will tell them what i know about the vehicle. We also keep VERY detailed records of all our vehicles and toys. Every gas/fuel fill, mileage, MPG, price of fuel, how many gallons it took, pulling or not pulling, and so on. Also everytime something is done to it, it is written down. My bride is a fanatic about this and if we sell or trade a vehicle/toy, we give them our records for it.
I believe this is why when we sell a vehicle or toy it goes right away.
Just my 2 cents and good luck!
 

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I chose a 2017, just to stay away from the CP4.
 
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I chose a 2017, just to stay away from the CP4.
I second this vote!
Don't know how much your looking at paying for that 2016. But your probably a few grand off a 2017.
Also look at your loan rates that you would getting from your credit union or bank. Your rates maybe lower getting a 2 year old truck aka 2018. With under 30k miles on it. So your payments may end up being around the same, just different purchase price would be different.
Have fun playing the truck buying game and be ready to down some headache meds.
 

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Average 13.2 pulling 8k toy hauler for about 2/3 of 64k miles.About 10-11 mpg pulling.
Has an oil pan drip like a lot of them did.
Shark fin started to leak recently.
Over all been a great truck with aux tank and air bags.FLOOD LIGHTS a must in the mountains.Pitman and idler arm replaced at 44k probably bad at 40k.
 

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My concern with a 2017 or newer, is that Chevy went with all new brands for injectors, and injector pumps, and not sure they have been time tested. I am pulling a 7500 pound trailer daily in city driving and once a month a 9000 pound trailer also city local driving. Im thinking at getting a gas 6.0L just to avoid all the expensive repairs guy have on their durmamax
 

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Also my old 2005 LLY took a long time to warm up in the winter, is that the case with the newer trucks or do they warm up faster ?
 

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So I'm looking at a 2016 duramax, to buy with 41,256 miles on it. Is there anything to be watchful for prior to buying?

Any better years to look at as well. Dont really wanna go for new right now (plus not a fan of the new body style)


TIA
I have a 2016. 46k. Only real issue ive had was the power steering got weird and the wheel had extra play. I believe there was a tsb. Happened at 38k, just out of warranty. A friend who does a lot of business with the dealership had it corrected for me. Dont know what the actual fix or cost was.
 

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I have the '16 at the bottom of my post and it is a good truck so far. The steering gear was replaced under warranty at 16k miles and the trailer brake switch/module about two months ago because it had a short in it; other than that no problems. My truck now has 39k miles on it. Like someone said above if I were you I'd get a '17 to avoid the cp4 issue. They can go at any time and if you have no warranty it is a $10k expense. To avoid it I am going to treat my truck to a cp3 upgrade just before it goes out of warranty and that is a $3k deal.
 

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I had to replace the radiator on my 2016 Dually at 47K miles when it started leaking at both ends where the plastic tanks attach to the radiator. See if it is leaking there. I also have electrical gremlins where an alarm sounds occasionally like a seat belt warning. It eventually goes off after a few minutes. The lights on the instrument panel are normally dim but occasionally brighten to a normal brightness (all displays). Other than these issues, it tows well and performs as expected.
 

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If you want a locked up engine get a l5p. Its a lot easier to change a fuel injection pump (which isn't as big of a deal as people would have you believe) than live with a emissions equipped engine for the trucks life. Think about the cost of replacing all of the emmisons related components over the life of the truck (DEF tank heater, EGR coolers, DEF sensors ect ect) and people want to bitch about a cp4? Get real.
 

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1078131
 

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The sad thing is the EPA has everyone so scared to even talk about the right way to treat these engines people are willing to let their engine components look like that. But its great for the environment....
 
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